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[Pard]

If you need to replace your disks, which it seems, go with a thicker disk with better heat dissipation and thermal characteristics, as said by many above in this thread.

Chric Paz @Demoni has endorsed BrakeTech Rotors as replacements.  Chris worked with Braketech to get them right for the Energica. 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/461586766937140/search/?q=braketech

https://www.facebook.com/groups/210803326383780/search/?q=braketech

We only manufacture our 330mm rotors in the semi narrowband 6mm thick mode - race spec.  Updated pricing:
BTD-38.SL & SR;  Cobra SS 330mm x 6mm full-floaters, list $399.95 ea.
BTD-38.SL & SR;  AXIS RR 330mm x 6mm full-floaters, list $409.95 ea.
Cheers,
Jeff


BRAKETECH TEAM
BrakeTech USA, Inc.
1080 Freeway Drive, Unit B
Reidsville, NC 27320
www.braketech.com



T: 336-394-4019
E: info@braketech.com

[most]

Pard thanks for reminding me. I did read that suggestion but completely forgot about Braketech. Will check if I can get them here.

[Phaedrus]

It's a (semi) floating rotors.  It has some natural play.  How are you measuring runout?

[Specter]

Not sure exactly what is on my corsa kit but they will stop you insanely fast, have a very affirmative lead in, nice and soft no grabbing, and keep their grip all the way down, even when braking hard, there is no fade.  Being a free floater you'll hear a bit of a scritchy scritch and rattling as the tire goes around at idle but this is perfectly normal.  Used them going thru 2 years now and not one issue with warping.  You may not need to go to that extreme but given the weight we are pushing around, bigger brakes absolutely will help in handling, stopping, everything.

Since you already do use higher regen, that and a better brake setup, you'll do a lot better.  Not only in just peace of mind because your brakes 'look' different, and eliminate worries but you'll feel that the bike handles a lot better too, especially after you've heated them up a bit, if you are in the mountains or something, and been riding them a bit, or on the track with a lot of hard on / offs,  just, knowing next time you pull them, they are right there, no harder squeeze because they are so hot and  don't want to start grabbing, or white knuckling it because they are sliding because they are too hot.  This gives you higher confidence which also directly translates into better riding.

Use the old ones as coasters for your bar.  or make a lazy susan for your wife for valentines day, and when she kicks you out of the house, well you got a bike with good brakes to go take a ride on!

Aaron

[most]

It's a (semi) floating rotors.  It has some natural play.  How are you measuring runout?

Even semi-floating discs typically have spring elements that keep the friction ring flat to the mounting ring. So applying that minimal side force for the dial will not affect the measurement. I also cross checked this by rattling on the friction ring by hand. You can see my setup on the linked picture. Since the broom stick is a really tight fit to the bearings, I can also exclude that the rim is somehow wobbling around on the axis.

Aaron, I guess I do not have the requirements than you have on the brakes. My OEM setup was good enough, with the TRW discs and the Brembo SA aftermarket pads the performance even increased. And I even got the hydraulic system replaced (see - it is in German but YT does a great job with the auto CC into English). The brake system is now spot on super pointy and with just the control that I would expect. From the performance point of view I don‘t see the need to upgrade - this would only be to avoid new discs every 6000km or so, reducing total cost of ownership .

[Demoni]

All, can anyone make anything out of the friction markings on my Experia front brake discs? I realized it when I was dismounting the wheels to get new tires. Exchanged the discs 5.000km ago and also . Beginning „warping“ - but haven‘t measured them yet.

So what is your conclusion?
What treatment do you suggest?

Looks like you are running TRW MSW291 rotors. Looking at their catalog they suggest SRQ or SRT compound pads for those rotors, both are sintered with T being a more street focused option and Q being track optimized. 
Your photo appears to show uneven friction material transfer from the pads to the rotors (splotchy coloration of the rotor). Cleaning (sanding) the rotors and swapping to a sintered pad material should help. edit sorry missed the fact you swapped to Brembo sintered pads
Also make sure you follow proper break in.
https://braketech.com/images/docs/racepad_bed-in.iii.pdf

Are your rotors equipped with removable buttons? If they are remove the friction ring from the carrier and check for warp on a hard flat surface. Also clean the buttons and the surfaces they contact, deposits in these areas can prevent sections of the rotor from floating freely causing vibrations under braking.

You also might want to make sure your calipers are properly centered
https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=12671.msg120636#msg120636

A properly bedded rotor should have a even film of pad friction material. For reference this is a Braketech rotor paired with Brembo Z04 pads after a A+ pace session.

[most]

Chris, thanks for your input!
As we say in Germany - to fools, similar thoughts
I have sanded the discs already, cleaned the buttons and set the calipers (I know the vid you've linked, in fact I have described it myself in an another own YT video - ca. 14mins in). Whereas as we all know the floating function is not intended to compensate for lateral movement but to compensate for the thermal expansion radially / different materials of friction ring and inner fixing hub. But certainly clean buttons will also support a bit of lateral play... for a few 100's of kilometres...
A test ride shows that the stuttering sensation got much much less. Let's see how long until I really have to replace the rotors.

[EVriderDK]

I had the same issue, so the workshop changed the brake discs but the problem is back after 500 kilometers.
1. They forgot to center the calipers! So check if they are centered.
2. Forgot to check the surface where the disc is mounted. It seems like the surface is not in perfect 90 degrees on my rim on the right side.

In the picture I put one of the bolts for the disc into the rim, with a nut on it. You can see that the gap in the top is smaller than the gap in the bottom. It looks like the threads are completely 0 degrees but the surface is like 89 degrees angle.
I found a rim workshop that might be able to help tomorrow.

[most]

You know that a standard nut has a bit of free play on the bolt when it is not fastened. Better is to counter-fix to nuts against each other on a bolt, then insert that bolt and check again. It might give a total different impression. But anyway this method is not very reliable and professional. Best is to get it 3D measured. Any lab could also check the if all landing surfaces are on an identical plane. But this will cost quite some money and the result might drive you crazy . I would trust that when those surfaces have been created the method is fail proof - which I believe it is at Marchesini (manufacturer of our rims).

[EVriderDK]

You know that a standard nut has a bit of free play on the bolt when it is not fastened. Better is to counter-fix to nuts against each other on a bolt, then insert that bolt and check again. It might give a total different impression. But anyway this method is not very reliable and professional. Best is to get it 3D measured. Any lab could also check the if all landing surfaces are on an identical plane. But this will cost quite some money and the result might drive you crazy . I would trust that when those surfaces have been created the method is fail proof - which I believe it is at Marchesini (manufacturer of our rims).

You were right. Checked everything again. Seems ok actually. funny..