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[PWM]

If this was my bike, I would plug bike charger into wall outlet assuming the LPR mode is still recognized when bike wakes up.

To wake up bike applying 9V to the VCU side of the fused circuit, placing power supply 0V to AC charger gnd, do not feed the battery pack side...use a bench power supply w/ current limit set to 100mA or try it w/ a fresh 9V battery or maybe two in parallel which is self limiting to ~200mA below the 315mA fuse size.

If there's enough residual charge in the battery pack, the DC/DC converter should fire-up which means LPR is recognized if it glitches and shuts down quickly then an additional isolated 12V supply is needed because pack is way depleted and for that you will need a connector adapter to isolate 12V - again, I would not backfeed into battery pack and mind proper circuit polarity with respect to AC charger gnd and you'll do fine to not harm anything further...we can source parts to make adapter your bike is newer than mine but the following should carry over in terms of identifying the pack connector and the keep alive fuse...



There's only (2) circular connectors on the older bike, one for battery pack interface and one for charger interface.

For comparison, looks like Energica went to rectangular connectors for the newer Eva series, the following is preliminary...



Sanity check w/ dealer first to be certain and HTF does one activate the friggen spell checker in our replies?

[Specter]

be careful checking the small fuse.  Some of the cheaper multi meters, the current they use to do their job, can be enough to blow the fuse when you try to check it.  Also don't expect a short either,  again smaller fuses can sometimes read a few ohms across them.

Aaron

[Demoni]

The lack of 9V power at the fuse holder has 3 possible causes, with #3 being the most likely.

1. The bikes battery is totally drained and no longer able to power the DC/DC unit. Based on the fact the bike was at 80% SOC in September this is unlikely.
2. The wire that carries 9V power from the battery to the fuse holder is damaged. Although I have only seen this once it is worth checking, disconnect the 16pin connector going onto the left side of the battery (under the tank cover). Locate pin 8 on the harness side of the plug and test for continuity to the fuse holder.
3. The PSU (DC/DC) that provides the constant 9V and 12V once the bike is switched on has failed. Replacement of that component will return the bike to normal function.

It is possible to provide the bike with external power however the only reason for this is to allow a dealer to communicate with the bike and retrieve the logs.

[Pard]

The lack of 9V power at the fuse holder has 3 possible causes, with #3 being the most likely.

1. The bikes battery is totally drained and no longer able to power the DC/DC unit. Based on the fact the bike was at 80% SOC in September this is unlikely.
2. The wire that carries 9V power from the battery to the fuse holder is damaged. Although I have only seen this once it is worth checking, disconnect the 16pin connector going onto the left side of the battery (under the tank cover). Locate pin 8 on the harness side of the plug and test for continuity to the fuse holder.
3. The PSU (DC/DC) that provides the constant 9V and 12V once the bike is switched on has failed. Replacement of that component will return the bike to normal function.

It is possible to provide the bike with external power however the only reason for this is to allow a dealer to communicate with the bike and retrieve the logs.

Perfect!

[Stonewolf]

The lack of 9V power at the fuse holder has 3 possible causes, with #3 being the most likely.

1. The bikes battery is totally drained and no longer able to power the DC/DC unit. Based on the fact the bike was at 80% SOC in September this is unlikely.
2. The wire that carries 9V power from the battery to the fuse holder is damaged. Although I have only seen this once it is worth checking, disconnect the 16pin connector going onto the left side of the battery (under the tank cover). Locate pin 8 on the harness side of the plug and test for continuity to the fuse holder.
3. The PSU (DC/DC) that provides the constant 9V and 12V once the bike is switched on has failed. Replacement of that component will return the bike to normal function.

It is possible to provide the bike with external power however the only reason for this is to allow a dealer to communicate with the bike and retrieve the logs.

Thanks! I'm currently thinking that what I'll do is ship it to EEMC for them to do any diagnosis they think is still worth trying and have a look at the DC/DC unit. They said it could be one of two part variations one of which is easy to change and the other hard (difference in connection methods) but there's no way of knowing until they open the front panel of the battery box.

Whether it's possible to even get the part though ...

[PWM]

The lack of 9V power at the fuse holder has 3 possible causes, with #3 being the most likely.

1. The bikes battery is totally drained and no longer able to power the DC/DC unit. Based on the fact the bike was at 80% SOC in September this is unlikely.

On the basis of activating LPR but leaving the AC disconnected, does the VCU make any attempt to wake up and initiate charge? 

Suppose this can easily be tested....just trying to avert errors and not risk the same outcome.

Thank you, Demoni....it's frustrating trying to understand what makes our bikes tick...the DC/DC function is not in operation even if 9V is sourced from the DC/DC converter assy when the bike is parked w/ ignition turned off, is this correct understanding?

[Stonewolf]

The bike doesn't respond to being plugged in in any way.

[ESokoloff]

be careful checking the small fuse.  Some of the cheaper multi meters, the current they use to do their job, can be enough to blow the fuse when you try to check it.  …….
Aaron

I don’t know if that’s true but here’s different & certainly non destructive way to test a fuse.

https://youtu.be/2EJU_UQFhmw?si=eb-ABVImyNuQeVCv

A bit of spit on the keypad/number helps.

[DonTom]

I don’t know if that’s true but here’s different & certainly non destructive way to test a fuse.

If the current of a cheap VOM is higher than the fuse, simply do NOT use the times one ohm scale. The VOM current is much less on the times ten and higher ohms scales than on the times one scale.


-Don-  OPCNM, AZ

[Stonewolf]

I dropped the bike in to EEMC today and they said:
1) They've sent another PSU off to a shop as a pilot to see if it can be repaired, once they get that back they may be able to have mine fixed
2) This is looking like a common issue for EMCE powered Ego-platform bikes (mine is 3y & 25k miles (~45k km))
3) The fuse I checked is correct, it's located differently between Ribelle and SS9

[DonTom]

I don’t know if that’s true but here’s different & certainly non destructive way to test a fuse.

https://youtu.be/2EJU_UQFhmw?si=eb-ABVImyNuQeVCv

It could show a hairline cracked fuse as being good, but most of the time that trick will work. But in those cases, you can tell by eye anyway. It is the hairline cracked fuses that are often not obvious.


They can sometimes even be tricky on an ohmeter because a temperature change can make them open and close. This is very rare, but I have seen it happen.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[Stonewolf]

Had a chat with EEMC today to see if they could give me an update. They'd sent another customer's PSU (actually I got the impression it was just a control board from the PSU) off for repair at a third party shop and if it worked they'd be doing the same for mine. The repaired PSU for the other customer wasn't right so it's gone back for remediation but they're still hopeful it'll work out.

[Specter]

Has any Energica shop looked at it at all?  Hopefully something easy comes back.
You mentioned something about this being a common problem with the EGO line?  Are there other examples?
If this is a known issue, surprised we haven't heard more about it.

Aaron

[Stonewolf]

Yeah, EEMC are the UK distributors, they're working to find alternative repair paths for any problems their customers are having.

[Stonewolf]

I think I put some updates in another thread somewhere but the third party repair was eventually successful and EEMC sent all their PSUs for same back in early May. They're now on the way back to the UK so maybe my bike will be back on the road again.

It's been 10 months and with it being my only ride I've been going a bit loopy looking out at the beautiful riding weather.