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[Stonewolf]

Brilliant time for this to happen ...

So I got a new job and now I can finally have my service done so I go out to the garage to get the tyre sizes, turn the bike on to move it and ... nothing. No screen, no relay clicks, no lights, nothing. The little blinky immobiliser light isn't even on.

Happened so far: Parked it at the end of September, charged to 80%, unplugged, LPR mode on.
Action taken: Phoned EEMC, took off side panel and inspected main fuse which looks fine, tried plugging it in with the ignition on and off, turning on/off a few times, removed main fuse for a short while and then reinserted.

Anyone have this problem before? I'm really hoping it's not serious.

[Specter]

is it a keyless or a keyed?
if keyless try holding the button down for like 30 to 45 seconds. 

Aaron

[Stonewolf]

Keyed, don't trust keyless

[DonTom]

Brilliant time for this to happen ...

So I got a new job and now I can finally have my service done so I go out to the garage to get the tyre sizes, turn the bike on to move it and ... nothing. No screen, no relay clicks, no lights, nothing. The little blinky immobiliser light isn't even on.

Happened so far: Parked it at the end of September, charged to 80%, unplugged, LPR mode on.
Action taken: Phoned EEMC, took off side panel and inspected main fuse which looks fine, tried plugging it in with the ignition on and off, turning on/off a few times, removed main fuse for a short while and then reinserted.

Anyone have this problem before? I'm really hoping it's not serious.

It's an easy fix!


Check the hidden 0.315 amp fuse, not shown in the manuals. It is an inline fuse inside the tank area. Bike turns into a brick when it opens, will not charge, will not run will not do anything as that fuse keys the bike. I have no idea why it is not shown, but it is in there.





See here.


-Don- Why, AZ (boondocked in the desert, RV trip with Zero DS)

[Stonewolf]

Is this the round one beside the regular fuse box or is it hidden somewhere else?

[DonTom]

Is this the round one beside the regular fuse box or is it hidden somewhere else?

In your bike, that could be it, so open the fuse holder and see if you have a blown 0.315 amp fuse in there. And test it if it looks good. Mine looked good to the eye but was open.


However, that fuse holder looks quite large for a 0.315 amp fuse. IIRC, the wires on mine were thin--not near the main fuse block, hidden below cables on the rear of the inverter, but that was on my SS9-. Your Ribelle could be a bit different, but I assume they still use the same fuse.


-Don-  Why, AZ

[Stonewolf]

The fuse inside is a lot smaller than the holder, the contacts look clean and the wire itself looks fine as well as its connections to the inside of the end caps. I'll try it with a multimeter tomorrow. I did look down near the motor where yours seemed to be but I couldn't see anything that looked like a fuse holder.

[PWM]

Brilliant time for this to happen ...

Parked it at the end of September, charged to 80%, unplugged, LPR mode on.

I'm really hoping it's not serious.

I don't want to dash your hopes but the programmed logic by having LPR mode On is that the bike wakes up at periodic intervals to juice up if necessary and given it wasn't plugged in but mode was active you may have sapped the battery wondering how many wake-up cycles the bike has been subjected to and yup that includes BMS activation which is dormant until bike wakes up...w/ LPR mode Off the bike will just sleep maintaining a keep alive voltage present at micro-amp level versus repeated surge of 10amps minimum as a comparative guess.  Fuses blow for a reason and typically not when bike is stationary...let us know the outcome...genuinely hoping I'm wrong.

[DonTom]

  Fuses blow for a reason and typically not when bike is stationary...let us know the outcome...genuinely hoping I'm wrong.

My 2020 SS9- "blew" the 0.315 amp fuse when the bike was off and stationary.


When fuses are as small as 0.315 amps, even a large temperature change can make them break and I think that is what happened to mine.  So can age, factory defects and other things cause fuse problems.  A "blown" fuse is not always an indication of a short or even excessive current.  But can often tell by looking at the fuse what caused it to blow. The size of the break in the fuse and stuff like that, in many larger fuses but we can't see much with a 0.315 amp fuse. My open 315 ma fuse looked fine by eye.  I was surprised as well as happy to find it to test as being open on an ohmmeter.


-Don-  Why, AZ

[jotjotde]

Is this the round one beside the regular fuse box or is it hidden somewhere else?

For the uninvolved reader it does not look like this fuse and the one Don is talking about are the same.
Looking at the pics in Don's post from November 22nd in 2022, he shows a fuse inside a clear fuse holder somewhere more in the vicinity of the thick orange cables entering the inverter.
Maybe it's worthwile to check again.

[Stonewolf]

Yeah the main reason I asked is there doesn't appear to be anything like a fuse holder down where Don's was and to get into that area properly I'd need to take more panels off. EEMC haven't told me that's the wrong one so I'll proceed as if it's correct. The fuse has continuity so the next step they've recommended is to check if there's voltage between it and the controller.

[Stonewolf]

There's no voltage from either contact in the inline fuse carrier to the inverter case (there should be 9V to ground on one of them) so it's looking like a DC-DC issue.

[DonTom]

There's no voltage from either contact in the inline fuse carrier to the inverter case (there should be 9V to ground on one of them) so it's looking like a DC-DC issue.

I agree with the others, that is probably not the same fuse. The correct fuse can be difficult to locate. And in my SS9- service manual, it is NOT shown.


The fuse you found, what was its rating?



IAC, you do NOT have a DC2DCC issue. That would not stop the bike from doing anything at all. The bike will also not charge, right? That has nothing to do with the DC2DCC. You're looking for the low voltage to turn the bike on. If the bike will not turn on, nothing at all works as the bike will not key on and the bike will not charge or do anything at all. And all other voltages will not be there at all.


I assume your Ribelle also has the 315 MA fuse. It is a small fuse in size also, half the size of most others. And difficult to notice--at least in my SS9-.


-Don-  Why, AZ

[PWM]

There's no voltage from either contact in the inline fuse carrier to the inverter case (there should be 9V to ground on one of them) so it's looking like a DC-DC issue.

The primary DC/DC converter for 12V system that operates lighting and traction controller functions is inhibited when bike is off.

I would have thought the (~9V) keep-alive was derived thru passive means versus a true DC/DC converter which seems less energy efficient for the given task.

I bet there's an undocumented safety cut-off mechanism at play that effects the keep alive voltage and prevents battery pack from a full self discharge...equally, I bet Energica has procedures to recover from this w/o cracking open the battery pack...e.g. external excitation to wake up VCU to allow contactor activation to charge port.

[Stonewolf]

I actually talked to them about external power, apparently it's something you can do but they (the UK distributors) had to rig up their own adaptor to do it. Their opinion was that it'd get the 12V system running but other than being able to read the SoC (which they're pretty sure isn't depleted) it wouldn't solve the problem.