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@electricwowheeler - whatever you end up doing, please be careful, and always, do a bit of your own research when you can,  try to verify or validate advice that is given to you, that it's good, don't blindly take 'advice' from people as gods rule or being safe, as some often speak of things they understand little about.  Try to understand not only what you are doing, but also preferably why you are doing it that way as well.  This greatly helps you truly learn from your projects but more importantly, keeps you from following bad advice and harming yourself or ending up with a btfu project.

goofing up and letting the magic smoke out of the wires, because you decided to hop on the clown car is one thing, but letting the magic out that keeps your heart beating, because you come across high voltage, is not acceptable, yet almost always, totally preventable.

parts are not cheap either,  why burn up 50 fuses at a buck or two a pop playing whack a mole, when you can get reliable data from one of many verifiable accurate engineering sources and build your project properly, the first time, with maybe only one or two minor adjustments.

technically anything over 50 volts is considered dangerous.  many will debate this, but, just, please, be careful when playing with electricity. it doesn't forget and doesn't cut you a break when you do wrong.

aaron

i think the slightly higher ratings on the newer batteries is from them getting / using better cells in them.
as tech put out better products, they adapted.

aaron

You don't need to remove the battery for PSU replacement. Lift the bike a little bit and remove the bottom battery cover to access the connectors.  The bottom cover is sealed.  Maybe Demoni can explain a bit more since I was next to him when he changed mine. I also had a Cincon PSU.

I opted not to experiment myself due to dangers of high voltage systems

So my battery can only contain around 16kWh and 333V maximum while the later models can hold around 18 kWh and 342V
Any difference in battery chemistry or is it purely Firmware unlock ?

I would love to unlock more capacity.

Which bike are we talking about..??

Ego, Ribelle/Eva or SS9..??

The later model bikes have a 21.5kw/h battery...of which ~18kw/h is useable.

The Experia has a 22.5kw/h battery of which ~19kw/h is useable.

Smithy.

…..
Ampacity is defined as the maximum load a wire can handle continuously and stay within temperature specs.
……..
 I have thought about installing a smaller fuse. That would be easy and now I know what the actual current flow is.
I would be more inclined to use a fast acting fuse designed to protect sensitive electronics.
………

Without looking it up, I think the current rating of a wire size would be its ability to carry it within an acceptable voltage drop.
Voltage drop is a result of consumption which in the case of insufficient conductor circular mills over temps the conductor.

Regarding fuse size, suggest you try small value fuse sizes incrementally until you find a size that holds during a torture test run.
Next try that size fuse @ different Delta V’s & see how that goes.
Up size it a bit for reliability.
If you find a non time-delay fuse that’s works then great.

Here is an explanation of time-delay duel element fuses.

https://youtu.be/f6eVEHBctYM?is=IGhEK0lnIxnoU3ok

So my battery can only contain around 16kWh and 333V maximum while the later models can hold around 18 kWh and 342V
Any difference in battery chemistry or is it purely Firmware unlock ?

I would love to unlock more capacity.

Too expensive. This cost med 10 usd

You might find this article regarding GM's sodium-ion based battery that was in my newspaper yesterday interesting.

I measured it and the have exactly 13.50v. Drop a little bit when I key On but after it stabilise right.

I have no choice but to go see my dealer.

good job there.  can't you just buy that entire assembly somewhere, i know they sell lights and repair kits, because as you see, stuff goes out.   just replaceentire board.

aaron