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[spinningmagnets]

Here's an article from an electric bicycle website, about lithium batteries. It condenses information about lithium batteries for the EV car market, and encourages charging to 80% to extend the life of the battery pack.


https://www.electricbike.com/how-to-make-lithium-battery-last/

[dennis-NL]

So, charge till 80%, better for battery live (the last 20% doesn't give you equal % per range anyway).
More charges per battery pack will be possible.

Charge as slow as you can because of battery temperature. In general for the battery: lower temp is best.

Long term storage at low percentage and temp will keep battery like new when u use it again.

Lithium batteries don't need too be charged till 100%, best is too have a big enough battery so you never need the full 100% charge. Tesla will stop charging at 80% so the battery will live a lot longer.

[Richard230]

So, charge till 80%, better for battery live (the last 20% doesn't give you equal % per range anyway).
More charges per battery pack will be possible.

Charge as slow as you can because of battery temperature. In general for the battery: lower temp is best.

Long term storage at low percentage and temp will keep battery like new when u use it again.

Lithium batteries don't need too be charged till 100%, best is too have a big enough battery so you never need the full 100% charge. Tesla will stop charging at 80% so the battery will live a lot longer.

But if you are going to stop charging at 80%, what is the point of paying another $2,600 (or whatever it was) for the Power Tank so that I can go as far as possible on a single charge?  I would rather use that extra 20% power for traveling, rather than for making the battery last as long as possible.  Especially as Zero claims that the battery pack will last for about 350,000 miles.  That is a lot longer than either I or the motorcycle's chassis will continue to function. 

[dennis-NL]

I need every kilometer I can get out of my battery, but it's nice to know what could be done for the battery live.

Only question the Tesla part gives me:
is 100% SOC of my Zero really 100% of my battery capacity, or is 100% SOC really like 80% capacity so Zero can claim the high kilometer warranty of its battery pack ?? 

[togo]

I need every kilometer I can get out of my battery, but it's nice to know what could be done for the battery live.

Only question the Tesla part gives me:
is 100% SOC of my Zero really 100% of my battery capacity, or is 100% SOC really like 80% capacity so Zero can claim the high kilometer warranty of its battery pack ?? 

My reference to Tesla was to compare.  I'm not referencing a Tesla part for your Zero.

If you do the arithmetic, and add up the cell voltages, Zero's maximum voltage of 116.4 is pretty darn close to the max voltage for the cells in series.  I don't think Zero is holding any reserve out on you.

[togo]

And why do you need every kilometer out of your battery?  Do you like to live on the edge?  Do you like range anxiety?  I used to do that, then I learned where the stations are, which ones have pleasant coffee shops and shopping and restaurants, and switched to a charge-early, charge-often, low-stress mentality.

[dennis-NL]

And why do you need every kilometer out of your battery?  Do you like to live on the edge?  Do you like range anxiety?  I used to do that, then I learned where the stations are, which ones have pleasant coffee shops and shopping and restaurants, and switched to a charge-early, charge-often, low-stress mentality.

Well, my commute was 110km on highway and charge at work for 8-9 hours to make it home again.
That meant in the Netherlands 100-130km/h max speed highways.
Also drive all year round in any kind of weather (so think of sometimes really hard wind and rain or even -10°C in good weather in winter)

I have a 12,5kW battery and needed to mainly go 95-105km/h and sometimes go faster to pass trucks without being roadkill for cars (we mainly have only 2 lanes on highways).

But on top of it: YES I would love to drive like I did on my ICE bike (faster than average) and need every kilometer.

Now my commute is 75km, but I stil 'manage' to consume every percentage of battery.....    My bad.

And I still have the standard 1,3kW/h charger, Diginow is coming soon to make it possible for some recharge.
But being it a commute you don't want to waste time charging 2 times every day extra.

When driving for fun I manage 160km and never use the highway. With Diginow I hope for longer trips like with previous bikes: 200-800km a day.
But it's costly, so first start with 3,3kW/h and hope ending with 9,9kW/h in the bellypan.

[ElectricZen]

Dennis... Please let us know how that first day with the diginow goes when you get it[emoji16]. You are going to love it!

Sent from my SM-T713 using Tapatalk

[dennis-NL]

Dennis... Please let us know how that first day with the diginow goes when you get it[emoji16]. You are going to love it!

Sent from my SM-T713 using Tapatalk

Thx for your response, will do.
Been reading your posts just yet, nice.
TrailTrail, solar power off grid, long distance travel, Diginow!

[togo]

And why do you need every kilometer out of your battery?  Do you like to live on the edge?  Do you like range anxiety?  I used to do that, then I learned where the stations are, which ones have pleasant coffee shops and shopping and restaurants, and switched to a charge-early, charge-often, low-stress mentality.

Well, my commute was 110km on highway and charge at work for 8-9 hours to make it home again.
That meant in the Netherlands 100-130km/h max speed highways.
Also drive all year round in any kind of weather (so think of sometimes really hard wind and rain or even -10°C in good weather in winter)

I have a 12,5kW battery and needed to mainly go 95-105km/h and sometimes go faster to pass trucks without being roadkill for cars (we mainly have only 2 lanes on highways).

But on top of it: YES I would love to drive like I did on my ICE bike (faster than average) and need every kilometer.

Now my commute is 75km, but I stil 'manage' to consume every percentage of battery.....    My bad.

And I still have the standard 1,3kW/h charger, Diginow is coming soon to make it possible for some recharge.
But being it a commute you don't want to waste time charging 2 times every day extra.

When driving for fun I manage 160km and never use the highway. With Diginow I hope for longer trips like with previous bikes: 200-800km a day.
But it's costly, so first start with 3,3kW/h and hope ending with 9,9kW/h in the bellypan.

Dennis... Please let us know how that first day with the diginow goes when you get it[emoji16]. You are going to love it!

Sent from my SM-T713 using Tapatalk

Thx for your response, will do.
Been reading your posts just yet, nice.
TrailTrail, solar power off grid, long distance travel, Diginow!

Yeah, rapid charging, and knowing where the stations are, makes a huge difference.  Segments I used to sweat are now broken up by a quick charging/bathroom/espresso break, and no range worries, and I have confidence my battery is spending little or now time at the stressful >80% or <20% levels.

And BTW, charging to 100% just before a trip is fine.  You just don't want your battery to spend much time there.

[spinningmagnets]

"And BTW, charging to 100% just before a trip is fine.  You just don't want your battery to spend much time there"

This is the key. Nobody wants to feel like they need to spend hours charging up just before they ride simply to get the best pack life. However, even when a buyer has the largest pack available by Zero, do they ride the max miles on every trip? Of course not.

If you are nearing a dead pack at the end of a ride, you have gotten all of your money's worth out of the extra price of a larger pack. That being said, most times you will likely only use half the packs capacity. If you ride to 70% (or less) of your pack's capacity on a daily basis, you have options. If you charge to 80% at the end of the day, then...you might double the pack life of your expensive investment. Definitely a GREAT Return On Investment / ROI.

When I wake up in the morning, I often eat some breakfast, along with the first cup of coffee. Maybe change up your routine to take the pack that you charged overnight to 80% and set it to charge to 100% while you eat breakfast. If you truly only use 70% of the packs range each day, then...you could get to work with no extra charging at all, right?

The extra charge between waking up and when you actually start riding is simply a bonus, in order to add a safety margin to your range.

[DPsSRnSD]

. . . If you truly only use 70% of the packs range each day, then...you could get to work with no extra charging at all, right?

The extra charge between waking up and when you actually start riding is simply a bonus, in order to add a safety margin to your range.

I'm Captain Obvious chiming in here to state what everyone probably knows, but is that 70% usage measured at the height of summer or the dead of winter? Plus, for best battery life, you'd want to arrive home with 30% left instead of 10%.

[heroto]

Sorry if this has already been answered:
When our Zeros display 100% charged, is that really 100%, or does Zero limit the max charge to protect the battery, so 100% is really something less?

[Richard230]

Sorry if this has already been answered:
When our Zeros display 100% charged, is that really 100%, or does Zero limit the max charge to protect the battery, so 100% is really something less?

Zero limits the battery pack's actual charge so that it doesn't get too high or too low.  The 100% charge number is just arbitrary.  When fully charged my 2014 Zero showed 117 volts when the display read 100%, but my new 2018 Zero shuts down charging and shows 100% when the pack is at 115 volts. The same goes when fully discharged.  My 2014 bike would run down to 0% and then shut off. But I understand that the newer bikes will continue to work even after a 0% is displayed on the instrument panel. So Zero seems to be very concerned about the life of their batteries and uses their BMS system to make sure that the battery cells do not become overly or under charged so that their life is extended even when being fully charged or discharged by the owner.

[heroto]

Yes, I understand that, thanks, this is what I'm getting at.
I'll ask my question another way:
Since 80% of true max charge seems to be a good goal for max charge when practical, what charge is that as displayed on the Zero dashboard? 85%? 90%? 100%?