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[rider7]

Hi all,

has there been a thread about theft and insurance protection here?

I was wondering if I could tap into y'all's experience that you might have already made with Zero motorcycle theft.

Besides the obvious method of simply carrying it away, is it harder to get it running compared to a normal bike? I don't see it being harder, since there is a traditional ignition and steering lock, which didn't seem to a problem for processional thieves in th past.

I am just about to receive my 2017 Zero bike and I was shocked that total loss coverage portion of my bike would be over $1,000 alone.
That is progressive with multi vehicle discount, diamond rewards and I am an old person on top of that with 32 years of riding with only one crash.

Over $1,000 that is nuts. There aren't even that many Zero bikes out there that can be stolen yet.

So I am looking at LoJack alternatives and chains and disk locks etc...

Any research on this topic is welcome.

And also, if you want to share any information on a more affordable total loss insurance protection, please do.

Rider7

[clay.leihy]

I just switched to Progressive because full coverage, maxed out, for my 2015 FX is $80 annual. State Farm and Geico wanted over $250.

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk

[Justin Andrews]

I was wondering if I could tap into y'all's experience that you might have already made with Zero motorcycle theft.

Having had my SR nicked, and having to rethink my security from literally the ground up.


Alarm and or baby monitor, depending on if you want to scare them off, or catch them in the act.

Critically a decent ground anchor and a proper 16mm or thicker chain (think Almax) anything less than that is simply asking a thief to take your bike, and forget Oxford chains (aka the Thief's friend). In fact forget anything under 16mm, regardless of what its made from, as it can almost certainly be hand cropped. Put the chain through the swing arm (the Zero will accommodate up to a 19mm chain through the swing arm hole) unless you want to come out to see just your front / rear wheel on your drive...

I'd also recommend disk locks, as back up security, but choose one carefully, they are awfully prone to succumbing to lock bumping, and hammer attacks. Scumbags have also been known to remove the bolts of the brake disk and ride away with the brake disk and lock hanging free.


In the end you can't stop them nicking your bike, but you can slow them down.

[Richard230]

Chains don't work too well around here.  The pros use a battery-powered cutoff wheel that will cut through a chain in less than a minute and then carry off your bike with a stolen cargo van with the license plates removed. I still think the best defense is a dirty motorcycle cover that requires someone to peel it back to see what is under the cover.  Most thieves are just too lazy to go around uncovering bikes to see what is under them when they are just driving around looking for something to steal.

[Justin Andrews]

Once die/angle grinders are involved, then there is f'all you can do to stop your bike being nicked.
Covers don't do much either, just advertise that you are hiding a nice bike.

When things get that bad, take your bike into the house. Electrics don't drip oil either. 

[Starpower]

I have a rear disc lock, a front motion activated alarmed disc lock and an Iota Tracker that is a GPS tracker and motion sense alarm that signals my smart phone. I'm also considering a Skunklock, http://skunklock.com

All of this will likely just slow them down a tad!

[Doug S]

I have a rear disc lock, a front motion activated alarmed disc lock and an Iota Tracker that is a GPS tracker and motion sense alarm that signals my smart phone. I'm also considering a Skunklock, http://skunklock.com

All of this will likely just slow them down a tad!

It'd slow ME down, too. How long does it take you to get on your bike to go for a ride? How long to park? I've always felt that the time overhead for riding vs. driving the car is too high already....put on the jacket, get the helmet off the helmet lock, put it on, put on the gloves, NOW you're ready to ride, three minutes after your friends are already having lunch. Then do it all in reverse when you get there! I bought a disk lock early on and I think I've used it twice...it's just too much of a pain to use it on a regular basis.

[rider7]

Thanks for your all your input.

clay.leihy,
total loss for $80 bucks from Progressive that is great, mhhhh.... no idea why the quote came back so high for mine. I'll check with them again.
I did get GAP insurance through my loan and it will cover the bike when stolen. That cost me $400 for the term of the loan.


I am lucky I have a garage. So that most dangerous part is covered.

But for longer periods of out and about parking, I definitely will have something on the bike that prevents it from free rolling.
I watched a bunch of YouTube now, and saw how easy it is to crack an ignition lock with the right tool and a bit force to get it into drive position and everything is over unless there is another arresting device.
I'll probably go with disk brake lock and grip lock.
The

Doug S,
I hear you, having to deal with all that to put it on and take off isn't fun.
I might just stick with the brake lever lock in the long run.
The Toogoo(r) GPS Tracker can disable the ignition I think and this might be the long term option against drive off events.

Starpower,
Thanks for reminding me about the skunk lock.
I'll check it out again. I think that is the only way to get someone to really stop, although they might bring a gasmask at some point.
Thanks for the Iota tracker tip. Looks not bad. I am a bit on the fence adding more RF radiation to my immediate surroundings. It all accumulates. I have not formed an opinion based on science yet.

Justin Andrews,
I agree, taking it into the house is the only real safe option. Again, I do habe a garage and am eternally grateful for that peace of mind.
And yes, a nice cover screams look under me.
Thanks for your measurement tips on the type of chain too.

Richard 230,
I like the old cover idea, although a hassle to put on and off. But if I wouldn't have a garage, I'd go with that option.
The more rotten the better, no one expects anything good under a rotten cover.

Again, thanks guys, your input was greatly appreciated.

Rider7

[Starpower]

I have a rear disc lock, a front motion activated alarmed disc lock and an Iota Tracker that is a GPS tracker and motion sense alarm that signals my smart phone. I'm also considering a Skunklock, http://skunklock.com

All of this will likely just slow them down a tad!

It'd slow ME down, too. How long does it take you to get on your bike to go for a ride? How long to park? I've always felt that the time overhead for riding vs. driving the car is too high already....put on the jacket, get the helmet off the helmet lock, put it on, put on the gloves, NOW you're ready to ride, three minutes after your friends are already having lunch. Then do it all in reverse when you get there! I bought a disk lock early on and I think I've used it twice...it's just too much of a pain to use it on a regular basis.
[/quote

It is a PITA for sure  however I live in a very rual area where we leave our homes unlocked and keys in our vehicles. However when I go to the track I leave my motorcycle parked outside my hotel room overnight in a sketchy area and that's when I use all of the gear mentioned and this is not for my zero but my highly modified BMW S 1000R. When I added carbon fiber wheels I went all out on protection. When not at the track I don't even bother with locking the bars

[KrazyEd]

I have been with Progressive for years. I presently have full coverage with high dollar protection.
I presently have a Suzuki SV 650, Kawasaki Turbo, and, 2013 Zero FX. Last year my premium
was $376. I just added a 2016 Zero SR which raised my premium by SIX HUNDRED DOLLARS.
Almost DOUBLE the three for ONE bike ?!.
Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
Great Credit, no claims no tickets and no accidents.

[MrDude_1]

I have been with Progressive for years. I presently have full coverage with high dollar protection.
I presently have a Suzuki SV 650, Kawasaki Turbo, and, 2013 Zero FX. Last year my premium
was $376. I just added a 2016 Zero SR which raised my premium by SIX HUNDRED DOLLARS.
Almost DOUBLE the three for ONE bike ?!.
Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
Great Credit, no claims no tickets and no accidents.

its because they advertise the SR as like a literbike.  Go to a local progressive agent and explain to him its like a 500cc bike, and they can re-rate it.

[KrazyEd]

I do have a local agent. Spoke with him again this morning. It turns out that the problem isn't with the SR, it is
how they classify the FX. They look at it as a dirt bike and price it as such. You are correct that they classify
it as a " Crotch Rocket ". I did some research and found out that the Kawasaki z650 is as close a match
as I could find. Similar style, within a few lbs. and the same horsepower. I called Geico and they
quoted me Two and a half times as much for the SR as progressive. I decided not to push it as I
don't want them to take too close a look at the FX.

[rider7]

Ok guys,

Progressive's quote request on their web portal has all zero models in their drop down menu, but whoever scripted it left the request for cc in there.

University Credit Union's, who I have my loan through, insurance agent said to put 1  in there or the computer treats it like well, whatever you put in for ccs.

I initially put 600 in there and it came out to be almost $1,100 per year.
But, the biggest difference comes from the agent.

When I got it quoted verbally over the phone as a direct sale from Progressive, although I have a second bike with them and have been a customer for over 5 years, they want $550 per year for total loss coverage.

Same coverage through the insurance agent is $116 per year for the DSR.
What a difference huh?

I ended up with being ok with the GAP insurance through my loan. $400 for the term of the loan, and total loss crash or stolen is covered up to 125% of National Automobile Dealers Association - NADA value.
That's good enough for me right now.

So, no matter how good of a customer you are, insurance agents are important, that's my take away.

Again, thanks for all your feedback and input.

By the way, I have had my DSR for two days now and guy's, the last time I was so literally overwhelmed by excitement and enjoyment was when I flew a helicopter solo the first time and that is pretty much the most magical thing you can do in my opinion.

This machine is a game changer.
It is like flying a helicopter, just point and shoot. It gives you freedom like nothing that's easily obtainable anymore.
No stress cruising, and hurting facial grin muscles when twisting the throttle.
And the best part, you can now switch modes on the fly. I don't recall that being possible with the 2016 models I test rode.

My last powerful bike was a Kawasaki ZRX1200R with 120 hp on the wheel, but it's exactly 100 lbs heavier wet and boy oh boy was that noticeable.
The DSR is the perfect combination of weight (stability) and agility.
What a time machine.

I would have never thought that the futuristic whirring sounds of the motor and drive train is addictive.
Standing at a traffic light is so relaxing. Not fumes, no hot exhaust, no pulling the clutch for the 50,000 millionth time just to get going.
No anxiety to ride to accumulate miles leading up to more maintenance.

It is paradise.

Best thing that's happened to me for a long time.

Rider7

[ctrlburn]

If presented "cc" entry on a Zero put "0" or "1"

Don't be generous by presenting a "cc" equivalent is a multiplier to the base already determined by the model.

If the Insurance company doesn't list Zero's and you WANT that carrier and try to "cc" equivalent build a single number based on:
         "cc" equivalent for acceleration 440cc-650cc
         "cc" equivalent for top speed   250cc
         "cc" equivalent for likelihood for accidental damage  ???cc    (no pipes to scrape either)
         "cc" equivalent for cost to repair after accident   ???cc
         "cc" equivalent for for likelihood of theft  ???cc
         "cc" equivalent for fuel and oil spillage  0cc

Also remember by driving electric we are saving insurance companies tons of money, by reducing asthma rates and other respiratory disorders.  (Vehicle emissions cause $19billion in health care related costs)



EDIT - Also read the US Motorcycle Accident Report thread:
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=6523.0
and weigh in how much "cc" was a factor in accidents.

[Erasmo]

Oh yes the famous 0 cc. Somehow the insurance bean counter on the other end of the line couldn't comprehend that a motorcycle could have 0 cc. That sure was an interesting 20 minutes before I got transferred to a higher tier...