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Author Topic: Electric Motorcycling - An Introduction. Part 1 of 2  (Read 2429 times)

MostlyBonkers

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Electric Motorcycling - An Introduction. Part 1 of 2
« on: February 14, 2016, 03:54:01 PM »

I got a post error first time round. Too long perhaps? I've had to split the article in two.

Summary

Leading up to the point where I actually bought an electric bike, I spent two and a half years on this forum.  In that time I did what most people do; joined in discussions, asked questions, had disagreements, upset one or two people and learnt a lot.

Why did it take me so long? Lots of reasons really. Money and having the right opportunity have been at the top of the list all along. However, like many others, I also needed to feel comfortable about taking the plunge.

My aim with this article is to give you some insight into the world of electric motorcycles, at the time of writing, February 2016.  There are many topics where there is a strong consensus of opinion. By distilling these and posting them in one convenient place, I hope it will be useful.

Comments are always welcome and will help other readers determine whether or not people feel this article hits the mark. I'd also value any contributions so this article can evolve.


The Marketplace

Zero Motorcycles is the only manufacturer that has anything approaching a mass market offering at the moment. Their dealership network is growing.  The product is maturing well. Their only real competitor was Brammo, who have since come under the Victory name.

If you have deep pockets, there are a few companies producing luxury bikes. Lightning are well worth looking at, others too.  I'll focus on Zero though as they are the most realistic option for most people.


Dealerships

I'm starting here because I believe dealerships are crucial to the overall experience. Once you've finished reading this, the next thing you should do is find your nearest Zero dealership and pay them a visit. Go for a demo ride while you're there. Ask them about how they handle warranty issues. You need to make sure they are willing to pick your bike up and provide you with a courtesy bike for the duration. Try and get a sense of how well their technicians have been trained too. Customer service is very important. Dealerships can make the difference between a great experience with Zero or a horror story.


Cost

Try not to be put off by the sticker price. You'll find that a brand new Zero costs quite a bit more than a comparable internal combustion engine (ICE) powered bike. Read on and you'll see why the Zero will become cheaper in the long term.


Maintenance

Aside from the common cycle parts; tyres, brakes and suspension, there is very little to maintain on a Zero. The drive belt is good for 30,000 miles. The motor requires no attention at all. Neither does the battery. That is what will save you a small fortune over the life of the bike. No parts, no labour, no oil or chain lube. No valve clearances to check. No hassle. If you hate regular servicing and the inconvenience, it's a massive win.


Range

It's almost always the first question on anyone's mind. If you are going to commute on your bike and your journey is a fifty mile round trip or less, then it's a non-issue for all but the Zero FX from 2013 onwards. You simply charge at home overnight and never need to worry about range. That's simple.

Most Zeros, especially the newer ones, will cover larger distances with ease. 70-80 miles is realistic for mixed riding. You can add a power tank which will get you over 100 miles with range to spare.

Speed and the associated drag reduces range significantly. If your commute takes you along a long stretch of motorway or other fast roads, you need to consider this. One other thing to keep in mind is that Zeros aren't designed for high speed cruising. There is no fairing so you get cold and wet very quickly. The extra wind can get tiresome after a while too.  A good screen will help.

If you are at all concerned about range and your commute, then ask your dealer for an extended test. Some prospective customers have taken a bike for two or three days so they can test out their commute.

Riding style is another key variable when it comes to range. If you find you're using more juice than expected, toning it down a bit can make a big difference.

Headwinds are also a big factor. If you can complete your normal journey with at least 20% State of Charge (SoC) remaining, you should be fine on windy days too.

Try not to let all this talk about range put you off though. It sounds worse than it is. It's important to understand your requirements and think about the riding you actually do most of the time, rather than some romantic ideal. You might also consider keeping an ICE bike for longer trips. However, once people own a Zero, their ICE bikes tend to stay in the garage and seldom get an outing.

A few members of this forum have had success touring with their Zeros. It takes some dedication and planning but that can be part of the fun. This leads us nicely into the next topic.


Charging

Zeros have an on-board charger with a maximum charging rate of 1.2-1.3 kW.  This is fine for commuting when you'll charge overnight at home and ideally be able to top up at work too.

Beyond commuting, you really need a fast charging solution. Zero offered a solution based on the CHAdeMO standard, but there were problems due to many stations not supporting voltages lower than 200V. If you live in a country with good CHAdeMO coverage and the stations comply with the standard, which goes down to 50V, then it could be worth looking into further. CHAdeMO is a DC fast charging solution, which is the ideal.

You are more likely to find charging stations that offer AC power. Another option is RV parks, if you live in the US.  The AC current needs to be converted to DC before being delivered to the battery, which means you need an external charger between the power outlet and your bike.  These are the main options:

Elcon: Available from Hollywood Electrics in California. Each one can provide 2.5kW of charge. Two can be used together along with the on-board charger providing up to 6.3kW. They have been around for a few years now and are well tried and tested.

Diginow Fast Charger: It should be available soon and promises a charge rate of up to 10kW. That means you'll be back on the road within an hour and a half.  It has the potential to make a big difference.

Zero's Charge Tank: The same output as a single Elcon. It replaces the faux tank and provides a socket for either a J1772 plug or a Mennekes plug, depending on your territory.  Up to 3.8kW with the on-board charger.

Delta-Q Chargers: These are sold by Zero and you can daisy chain up  to 4 of them. They aren't very powerful though.

Zero's official line is that using third party chargers will invalidate the warranty on the battery. Don't rule out the Elcon or Diginow chargers though. It's highly unlikely that either could cause failure with the battery or the Battery Management System (BMS). If a problem does occur with the battery or BMS, Zero should be able to find the cause and rule out the chargers. They are most likely to honour the warranty under those circumstances. Otherwise, it just wouldn't be cricket!

There is an app called Plugshare which will show you all the charging stations nearby. It's well worth a look.

Some manufacturers provide fast charging built in. It tends to be at the premium end of the market though.

Don't fall into the trap of assuming that you'll need a full charge each time you stop. Sometimes half an hour or so will be enough to get you to your destination where you can top up over a longer period.

A great piece of advice I've heard about charging is that there's never a good reason to not charge when you have the opportunity. Long term storage is an exception to that, in my opinion, but that's just me. 

A good example of this advice is the fact that I can charge at work and save on my electricity bill at home by not charging overnight. Yesterday morning I had just started to settle down at my desk with a cup of tea. My wife called to tell me our son was ill, so I had to jump back on the bike and get home. A short day at the office! I would have been scuppered if my bike was still down at 20-30% charge. As it happened I wasn't on my DS that day, but it did make me think. I've not charged at home a few times, but it's a false economy. It would only save £150 a year on the electricity bill and my wife pays half of it anyway...

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MostlyBonkers

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Electric Motorcycling - An Introduction. Part 1 of 2
« Reply #1 on: February 20, 2016, 03:23:00 PM »

Part 2 of 2

Touring

A great potential setup would be a Diginow charger carried in a top box and a power tank. However, it isn't available yet. The dual Elcon setup is also a great setup. These can be mounted where the panniers would usually go. They are also water resistant, so they can cope with rain. Look up Benswing for more info. He has lots of touring experience with this setup and lots of videos on YouTube that document his adventures. Well worth a look.

You could do roughly 120 miles before lunch and another 120 after lunch. Plenty for a nice relaxed day's riding. Squeeze another quick charge in over afternoon tea and you'll easily do 300 miles in a day.

From what I gather, around 250 miles a day is plenty.  I've heard people say that 300-350 miles a day or more is just too much if you really want to enjoy the experience.


Aerodynamics

People often forget about this topic, which is of great importance in the EV world. A good fairing can double your range at high speeds. Many Zero enthusiasts have a fairing at the top of their wish list. Some have fitted their own.

Craig Vetter must be mentioned here. He has contributed massively to this field. If it's an area you're interested in, look Craig up. Unfortunately Craig is recovering from a bad accident. Our thoughts are with him and his family. 

I'll also mention Terry Hershner, or Electric Terry as he's known on the forum. I believe Terry adapted his bike with help from Craig, or one of his fairings. Terry has made some remarkable achievements in this area as well as charging, touring and EV's in general. He's got a cute dog too!


The Battery

This is by far the most expensive component on the bike and it probably generates the most questions and anxiety when considering a purchase. It's certainly something I focused on a lot!  I won't go into details here, other than to make a few key points. Check out the links in the appendix for further reading.

1.  Don't compare the battery in your phone to the battery in a bike or car. The chemistry is different and automotive grade cells are designed to last a long time.  Zero provide a five year warranty on 2014 bikes onwards. You can expect them to be good for twice that length of time at least. In ten years time you'll be happy to replace the battery with one that will give you twice or three times the range at least. More likely you'll just get a new bike.
2. Charge at your convenience. You don't need to worry about running the battery down before charging. In fact it's better if you don't run it empty regularly.
3. Fast charging won't adversely affect battery life. The cells are put under very little stress even when charging the bike in an hour or so.
4. EV manufacturers know that batteries are going to be a concern for people and have engineered them accordingly. Follow their advice and just don't worry about it. Please! I've spent more than enough time thinking about it so you don't have to. In the end, I came to the conclusion that the people who make these things know what they're doing and they deserve our faith. I know that isn't always the case, but it is where Zero's batteries are concerned.


Performance & Handling

Now we get to the fun stuff!

Electric motors produce lots of torque.  They can provide all that torque from just a few rpm right through to the upper part of the rev range.  It's worth letting that sink in a little because it's one of the truly great aspects of riding an electric motorcycle.

Strictly speaking, Zeros limit the torque at low speeds to keep things civilised when setting off. Despite that, the Zero SR can get to 60mph in 3.3 seconds.  As there is no clutch or gears to change, you don't have to be an expert rider to achieve that either. Just not too heavy!

The instantly available torque is most useful for overtaking as you don't need to drop gears. It's just really nice to have lots of acceleration available whenever you want it.

Much of the weight of the bike is in the battery and this gives it quite a low centre of gravity. The lack of a spinning crankshaft and gears means that there are fewer centrifugal forces at work. This adds up to nimble handling and a good feel on the road.

Progress is extremely smooth as you'd expect with no gears and a belt drive. There's no driveline slack, the throttle is very well calibrated and the whole experience feels like you're gliding along. It's really quite liberating not having to micro manage the means of moving forward... Wow, that was a mouthful!

I know I keep saying this, but the best thing you can do is to try it for yourself.


Noise

Our brains have been wired to associate motorbikes with lots of noise. The relative silence of an electric bike is more attention grabbing than a loud set of pipes in some respects. I wish I had eyes in the back of my head so I could see all the double takes from pedestrians as I pass by. It really is quite entertaining when you catch someone taking a second look! There's a kind of frown of confusion followed by a dumb stare and then a fair amount of rubber necking as you pull away from the lights.

The noise you do get is one you'd expect from an electric motor. I hesitate to call it a whine as I think that sounds a little negative. I can't really think of a better word to describe it though. It isn't loud and I don't find it annoying. A sound from Star Wars perhaps? Above 40mph or so you'll just hear the wind.

Until quite recently I owned a VFR 1200.  The V4 in that thing is a marvel and sounds beautiful once you get going and the exhaust opens up. Ironically, around town the drive shaft made a noise not dissimilar to a Zero.

The only reason to wear earplugs is if your journey takes you to speeds where the wind gets loud. If you're pottering along country lanes it's both a joy to hear the sound of the countryside and to know you're not disturbing the tranquility for others.

I often think that an engine gives you a soundtrack that can influence your riding style. My Fazer 1000 was highly strung and egged me on to open the taps all the time. My NC750 was in no great hurry, had a relaxed tempo but could get a wriggle on when required. The VFR was a rugby player: A gentleman around town but kick it a ball and it was off like a mad bull. The Zero doesn't have an engine, so straight away you don't have the heartbeat of the pistons rising and falling. No jungle drums to stir the senses and quicken the march. So you ride as your mood takes you, rather than having a constant subliminal message goading you. Gliding through life, rather than charging at it with guns blazing. Effortlessly pulling away from the lights, still leaving the cars in your dust, but without all the fuss. It also helps to avoid any unwanted attention from the law.


Safety

I cannot deny that the sound of a loud pipe will alert people to your presence at close quarters. It cannot be relied on though.  You can only rely on your vision and danger perception.  People walk out from behind stationary vehicles regardless of the noise you are making. You need to keep your relative speed low and a sufficient distance from hazards to allow you to react and avoid.  Any other strategy and you are putting lives at risk.  I have commuted into central London on a daily basis on loud and silent bikes.  It really doesn't make a difference.

Also, by being silent I think you're giving other road users a better opportunity to get the full picture of their surroundings, rather than just focusing on a loud bike. The distracted van driver doesn't squash poor Tiddles the cat who froze in the road from the sound of rumbling thunder. White Van Man isn't busy looking for the guy making all the noise so he can give him the finger. That's one example... You can insert children, the elderly or the clergy if you like. Extra points for vicars, lawyers and estate agents. [emoji6]

The very best thing for safety is to get some advanced training. I can't recommend it enough, even if you are already an experienced biker. Those guys will still teach you a thing or two that could save your life.


Reliability

I heard a saying the other day: "If it isn't reliable, it isn't viable." I think it's very true and more so than ever before. Nothing puts customers off more than being stranded and having to go through all the hassle and expense of getting their bike fixed. Even if the bike is still under warranty, there are hidden costs. Time off work, alternative transport and so on.

I can only go on anecdotal evidence in relation to Zero bikes from forum posts. The main thing is to avoid 2012 bikes or older. The story after that gets better. The onboard chargers on 2014/15 have a reputation for failing. I have some personal experience with that one.  They get replaced under warranty. Even if your bike is out of warranty, it's worth trying to get Zero to replace the unit at no cost.  I've also heard that the Battery Management System can suffer from problems. Do please note that I don't have any figures and I'm likely to hear more about issues by following a forum.

It's also worth bearing in mind that the big manufacturers keep getting it wrong. That's with traditional bikes too. At the time of writing Suzuki are recalling over 60,000 bikes for various issues. Honda, yes, Honda are recalling VFR 1200's in the US for a problem with the drive shaft that can lock up the rear wheel. Yamaha are recalling their new R1's as they're shredding the transmission. That's just the ones I've heard of.

There are plenty of people who seem to have had very few or no issues at all. If it's a big concern, go for a 2016 model. Reliability is getting better each year. I'm a commuter and I bought a 2014 model from a dealer 120 miles away.

As time goes by, electric bikes have the potential to be very reliable indeed. Very few moving parts!

Make sure you have a good dealership and any problems should get sorted quickly. That advice applies to all bikes really.


Running Costs

To give you a rough idea, my commute of 50 miles each day uses approximately 8kWh of electricity. I pay about 16p per kWh, so that's £1.28 a day.

12,000 miles a year will cost a little over £300.

On an NC750: £920
On a VFR 1200: £1,580

At the moment I can get a charge at work, so that halves the electricity bill.

Add to that anything between about 400-700 a year in servicing, depending on parts and labour.

Also add more frequent tyre changes and brake pads for the ICE bikes.

Road tax is free on a Zero, £80 on the other two.

Actually, let's focus on the bike most similar to my DS, the NC750. Over a four year period, the two compare as follows:

NC750

Petrol: 4 x 920 = 3680
Servicing: 3 x 150 + 3 x 500 = 1950
Chain & Sprockets: 3 x 200 = 600
Road tax: 4 x 80 = 320

Total = 6,550

I'm going to assume both bikes go through the same amount of tyres and brakes, even though I'm certain the costs would be less for the Zero due to less high speed running and regenerative braking.

Zero DS

Electricity: 4 x 300 = 1,200
New belt at 30,000 = 100

Total = 1,300

That makes the Zero £5,250 cheaper to run over four years and that's with petrol prices being artificially low at the moment. Even with the higher initial purchase price of the Zero, it works out cheaper in the long run.

This is another reason why a Zero should appeal to commuters. The higher the mileage you're doing the more the lower running costs benefit you.


Depreciation

I'm afraid the ICE bikes win here because electric bikes have a higher initial price. The tax man gets 20% in the UK when buying new, which doesn't help.  You will also find that after four years a bike that cost 10-12,000 new may only be worth 3,000  in part exchange for a new bike. A four year old NC750 may only get around 2,000 for a part exchange. The Zero has dropped at least 7,000 and the NC750 around 4,500.

It is good news for second hand buyers though.  Over the next four years the Zero will easily have paid for itself in reduced running costs and any mileage beyond that is extremely cheap. The battery will still be good for at least another 100,000 miles. For the ICE rider, petrol prices will go up as will servicing costs.


The Environment

With the cost of solar installations going down and the Tesla Powerwall due out this year, it will become practical for many to charge off-grid. Cutting out two massive sets of infrastructure; oil companies and the power grid (not to mention the tax man), is an exciting prospect.  In the meantime, there are energy suppliers who purchase from renewable sources and invest back into them. Ecotricity is one such company in the UK. They also have a strict anti fracking policy too.

That takes care of the argument we often hear about the emissions simply being displaced. Not that that is such a bad thing either. Pollution from transport is a big deal, affecting the health of people who live or work in cities.  We aren't going to save the planet with our electric motorcycles, simply because motorcycles are only 1-2% of the road population. However, seeing bikers using EV's can't be a bad thing. After all, if a biker can give up their pipes, then surely the average Joe in their car can too? One day I'm pretty sure exhaust pipes will be seen in the same light as someone smoking in a restaurant.  When the air quality improves in built up areas, a smoky exhaust will stick out like a sore thumb. Those horrible diesels everywhere need to go and the sooner the better. Every day I see one emitting clouds of filth when the driver puts their foot down and that's just the stuff you can see.

I should also mention noise pollution here too. Silence is golden as far as other people are concerned. I'm sure that quiet motorcycles will help the relationship between bikers and the general public.


Conclusion

When I read an article in the spring of 2013 about Zero's 2013S, I was surprised at the existence of an electric motorcycle and at how well developed it was. I felt I had been caught napping! Some reading this article today will feel that electric motorcycles are a new thing too as they may have only just heard about them. The good news for you  is we now have three solid years of development on top of that 2013 breakthrough model.

Do try one for yourself, an electric bike can't be imagined. I hope you've enjoyed reading this article. 


Acknowledgements

Thanks to everyone on the forum who have, perhaps unknowingly, contributed. At least a couple will notice where I've more or less quoted them. Happy riding, whatever your preference! [emoji4]


Appendix

Useful resources

http://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=5298

If you have links to share, please add them to that topic. Thank you.
« Last Edit: February 20, 2016, 06:13:47 PM by MostlyBonkers »
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MrDude_1

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Re: Electric Motorcycling - An Introduction. Part 1 of 2
« Reply #2 on: February 20, 2016, 05:59:11 PM »

Bumping to put part 1 in front of 2!
Just edit the post above that I just quoted to have that entire second part. Or you can have a mod merge the threads. That way your entire article is in one place instead of comments being split between two different areas.
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MostlyBonkers

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Re: Electric Motorcycling - An Introduction. Part 1 of 2
« Reply #3 on: February 20, 2016, 06:29:13 PM »

Good suggestion, thanks Dude.
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SoundMusic

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Re: Electric Motorcycling - An Introduction. Part 1 of 2
« Reply #4 on: February 21, 2016, 06:16:35 AM »

What a wonderful well thought out article.
This is just what is needed to send to any of my friends who are now considering going electric.
Thanks for a job well done :D
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MostlyBonkers

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Re: Electric Motorcycling - An Introduction. Part 1 of 2
« Reply #5 on: February 21, 2016, 02:11:03 PM »

Thanks SoundMusic, that's kind of you. It's nice to hear that others are considering taking the leap too. The more the merrier! [emoji4]
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oobflyer

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Re: Electric Motorcycling - An Introduction. Part 1 of 2
« Reply #6 on: February 24, 2016, 10:41:58 PM »

Quote
The main thing is to avoid 2012 bikes or older. The story after that gets better.

Nice summary - I had the opposite experience, however, on the 2012 vs newer bikes - as far as mechanical problems. I ride my 2012 ZF9 for three years, had no mechanical issues (only took it to the dealership for software upgrades).

Last year I traded it in on a 2015 SR. I didn't complain much, here on the forum, but I had to take my '15 back to the shop many times (10? 12?) in one year. They have finally worked out all of the problems and it's running perfectly now for months without any more issues. But for awhile I was missing the reliability of my 2012!
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2023 BMW CE 04, 2021 Energica Ribelle, 2015 Zero SR, 2012 Zero ZF9, 2007 Vectrix VX-1 Li+, 2012 Nissan Leaf, 2018 Nissan Leaf, 2020 Nissan Leaf, 2018 Tesla Model 3, 2023 Tesla Model Y

MostlyBonkers

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Re: Electric Motorcycling - An Introduction. Part 1 of 2
« Reply #7 on: February 25, 2016, 01:23:23 AM »

I'm sorry to hear you've had so much trouble with your SR oobflyer. I'm also a bit surprised, as I'm sure you were. I hope the rest of your miles on the bike make up for it.
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