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[beatmaster]

My 2021 EGO was in LPR mode for several months - with red blinking LED in display and when powering from time to time, display did indicating 80% SOC...

Now LED is dark and I can't wake the bike by pressing the start button (keyless ride).
Does the BMS has a deep sleep mode? How can I reanimate it to initiate AC charging?
Or might the DC/DC converter cause the problem, as I saw in another thread?

Any advice is appreciated, thanks

Achim

[ESokoloff]

Can you check for voltage in/out on the DC/DC module?
That would at least rule it in or out as the cause.

[Specter]

so have you tried to initiate a ac charge on it at all, if so what did it do, any clicking etc, or lights?

if it is totally dead, one thing you can try, which may or may not work, jack up the rear wheel on a stand, spin it by hand with the bike on as fast as you can.  The idea here, which i have seen work on several other e-devices is, the motor will produce a little electric by the very nature of it, and that will basically be seen / felt on the dmz of the bms, which *might* turn it back on, or get its attention etc.

Have no clue if this will work this way on the energica never tried it, but have had it work on lawn mowers, tractors and some other electric devices, including e bikes.

it couldn't hurt if the thing is dead, you got nothing to lose trying.

aaron

[beatmaster]

@Specter: No clicking or similar when AC plugging - Wall box is "waiting for vehicle". I will try "rear wheel spinning"...
@ESokoloff: Where can I check 12 V supply - is a maintenance manual available or any other description?

[ESokoloff]

If this….
https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=13725.0
is the “other thread” you reffed to, then use it as a guide.
Hopefully your bike has the same DC/DC unit. If not you’ll have to do some research or wait for more input from those here that can guild you.

[Specter]

have you tried using a key on it, hold it on the fairing on the left side kind of by your knee is where the sensor is, see if thatll wake it up.,  sometimes that little logo thing, its in that area where the sensor is.      still though, it should charge keyed on or not youd think.  or at least acknowledge seeing it in there.  dont quote me but i think i remember something like this before and a 315 ma fuse or something.

you had it in lpr  was it plugged in while in lpr or just standing w/o any power hooked up?

aaron

[beatmaster]

Key with new 2032 battery was placed direct at receiver. But actually all systems are down - no reaction to start button.

Unfortunately the bike was unplugged for several months (SoC was always "80%", when I checked...)
So, BMS should now be in cell protection mode and has deactivated uncharging.
It should be not too complicated to power the control board from outside - if you know, how?

I spoke to the dealer's technician - without Energica's online system they even can't get any access to maintenance manuals or tools... :-(

Does anybody have access to downloaded manuals?

[ESokoloff]

Try asking at Energica Owners Motorcycles Group on Facebook

[Specter]

maybe get a 12v battery like one of those little bricks out of alarm systems  the 12v 5ah.  find a 12 volt item somewhere, and backfeed it.
id recommend directly into the board, as trying to backfeed a light or something that actually runs thru the board may not work.  find the 12 volt feed wire to the distro box for the 12v and hook it there.

chris paz should be able to help maybe, give you the wire location ./numbers to feed the battery up thru to maybe jumpstart it.     i am not sure this is even possible, i have never done it to my bike, but it seems a logical way to get 12v to the stuff that needs it if the battery is shut off.

the only other issue is, ok so you power up the control board, BUT if the bms is in hibernate mode, will that wake it back up??  the bms gets its power from the battery, will the outside source wake it, especially considering the batt voltage vs the 12 you want to inject.

hopefully chris can chime in as im genuinely curious now how to fix this.  my ego is going to be down a while and if i run into something like this itd be nice to know how to wake her back up.

aaron

[Demoni]

Hey sorry for the delay have not had a chance to check the forum in the last few days.

There are 2 potential causes for the red led on the dash (part of  the always on 9v circuit) to not blink.
#1 the glass fuse has blown. This fuse is located in a separate holder near the main fuse box. It's located in a small black plastic holder that twists apart to access the 5x20mm 315mA glass fuse.
Remove the fuse and confirm continuity with a multimeter. If the fuse was tripped replacing it should restore 9V power and the bike should turn on.

If the fuse tests good the next possibility is the PSU is no longer supplying power. The PSU is a DC/DC unit that provides the bike a low current 9V supply and a high current 12V supply. The 9V provides constant power to the bikes vehicle control unit VCU and ignition, this circuit turns on the 12V circuit that runs the lights and other higher power systems once you turn the bike on.

To test if the 9V circuit of the PSU is working set your multimeter to VDC, negative lead should be grounded (inverter case or other bare metal). Probe both sides of the glass fuse holder with the positive lead. You should measure 9V on one side of the fuse holder if the PSU is outputting power. If you measure 0V on both sides either the PSU has failed or the battery has been discharged. Unless it has been 6+ months since you saw the battery SOC of 80% a discharged battery is probably not the issue.

There are some additional tests I can describe. Let us know the results of the above.

[beatmaster]

Does the PSU deliver 12V and 9V?
I tried to supply at the PSU's red wired with 12V - that might have been a fault...?
What ist the correct process to supply 12V from outside?

[Specter]

beat ideally you don't want to provide outside voltage,  that also might cause some issues as well.  if the battery is the problem then none of this is going to really wake it up.   as chris said, it supplies both 9 and 12, and seems the 9 is like a pilot, you need it to turn on / activate the 12 to the other stuff.  so it seems you need the 9 for the control unit as well, so putting 12 from outside wont help us much.

have you checked for power yet, and checked the fuse.   use a decent multimeter when you check, the real cheap ones can sometimes pull enough current to pop a small fuse that rating.  looking for voltage on both sides as chris mentioned is a safer way to check then continuity across it.

how long was your bike in storage mode for, and what was the average temperature during that time?  just to confirm, the bike was NOT plugged into any charger at this time?   The reason i ask about a charger is, if the answer is no, then showing a flat 80 all the time would be a bad reading, it should have steadily been dropping.  temp swings can push it around a bit etc, so am thinking that 80 you seen might have been a sort of like, last remembered percentage and not the real percent.  hopefully it didn't deplete the battery, they are a pain in the ass to revive and that chemistry does not like hard drains.

aaron


Chris: would the bms actually let it discharge the main battery all the way down like that or would it go into some sort of isolation or cutout mode?

[ElectricRebel]

Chris: would the bms actually let it discharge the main battery all the way down like that or would it go into some sort of isolation or cutout mode?

Well, I'm not Chris, but:
The DC/DC units power cables are DIRECTLY bolted to the main HV- and + terminals in the bellypan before the contactors (well, there are some fuses in between , but nothing more).
So the DC/DC unit will slowly drain the battery.
The BMS doesn't communicate with the DC/DC unit, it will probably cut off the main 12V HP that powers the ignition etc when the voltage is below a certain threshold, but the 12V LP (9V) will still drain the battery until the unit has no longer any voltage to work with.

That's sad and not well engineered tbh ....
Greetings
Jonas

[Specter]

ugh no thats not good at all.
i know the display loves to hold last numbers too, and putting in lpr mode may have disabled certain checks and stuff.   if it was at 80 percent and never moved, and no power coming in (if that is the case) then he probably ran the battery into the basement.  i see that on my bike often, ill put it to bed at the end of the day with like 84 percent charge, it cools etc overnight, turn it on and the display will show 84 percent for a second or so then suddenly jump to like 80 percent or whatever the 'new' balance of the battery is (or it thinks it is)

does anyone know what the idle, picking my ass current draw is on the bike, it has to be something, there is some computer thingy dingy watching somewhere.  even if that draw is only 5 watts.  that's 120 watts a day, 800 watts a week.  3.2 kw a month.  after say 6 yo 7 months you are in trouble.  once the batteries are drained down to zero and still have a path across them, chemical actions that are irreversable can happen and the internal resistance of the cells, can climb into the k-ohms.  thats a battery killer right there, you can't push any current thru them anymore to charge it, its literally a brick now.  slow waking at that point can be dangerous too, if it did dendrite and let you get to say 50 percent charge befor it let go, thats a lot of stored energy you just set loose, ie a nice fire.

keep fingers crossed it's just a fart in the phone booth somewhere and you just need to replace a fuse or something simple.
shit, worse case, i have a battery but w/o any way to program and marry it to your system... unless you swapped the board.

chris, where at in the battery is it's 'name/ser' held at?
good news if you did rebuild it, you can put a lot better cells in it.

aaron

[Demoni]

Does the PSU deliver 12V and 9V?
I tried to supply at the PSU's red wired with 12V - that might have been a fault...?
What ist the correct process to supply 12V from outside?

Applying 12v to random wires is not the solution.
Please read my original post that details the tests you need to perform. Based on the results I can provide additional information.