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[Fran K]

Some good stuff.  This picture is of the arc of power I call it.  This is in eco mode with the smallest power arc (orange) and the biggest regen arc (blue)  I am asking for about 75% of available power here, the inner blue part lights up in a similar way when doing regen.  In sport the power arc is about 90 degrees.  If only passive regen the max is about 40% of what is showing here.

Maybe the range is getting better with warm weather I started out with 77% charge went 25.2 miles and it says I have 25 miles of range left.

It also would not make the arc of power being used show unless moving.  I tried to take the picture with the front wheel against an obstacle but had to do it moving.

The front fender apart from being plastic likely partly recycled plastic to be eco-friendly is great too.  I went through a bunch of snow melt run off streams running across the road a few weeks back and the lower legs and feet did not get wet at all.  The spray did not get in the radiators either.

[princec]

Unrelatedly, how are you finding that final drive unit? It's one of the most interesting aspects of the bike.

Cas

[Fran K]

I might have eventually done a post about the rear drive.

Hold the front brake and apply power the rear end rises.  Hold the rear brake and apply power maintains position.

There can be some chain slap over bumps.

I don't why they did not copy the tensioning system in the 1975 Norton and likely others that allows the top or bottom of the chain to be in a straight line depending on acceleration or deceleration.  In regen the slider for tension is loaded.

I got the pulse cast wheel wider rim and 17" mounted a big block dot knobby.  There must be some harmonics with the rear drive and the knob noise or vibration at maybe 15 mph or so that was unlike anything else riding knobs on the pavement.

3 lug bolts, I guess the R80gs BMW had 3 as well at least the Honda W7 will come with 5.  Looking at the parts diagram instead of normal wheel bearings it appears a needle bearing on the chain side and a plain bearing on the other side.  Obviously, road race bikes use the overall single sided set up.  I can't wiggle any play.

It is clean that is for sure.  The ring for the abs/traction control is inside which for an adv bike where surely you are going to sink in mud, loam, sand or whatever every now and then is good.  I suppose it could be in the enclosed part of the drive system before a chain or belt.  The wire for that sensor could be damaged I suppose.  I do have another bike with abs and the sensor is pretty well hidden inside, it has a cush drive hub.

It forces the passenger footpeg to be kind of far off the center line hence put the one on the other side equally out.  They are an extra add on with the passenger seat and hand holds, parts not available individually if you manage to damage them, cast aluminum with lightening voids at least on the hand holds.  Probably sort of similar to single muffler constraints.  Same thing for saddlebag or pannier as often named.

The actual location of the swingarm pivot is low.  I am not sure if that is really heavy duty the whole bike is only rated for something like 330 pounds of passengers and luggage.  Might just be a 12mm bolt for that pivot inside the bearings if I read the parts sheets right.  It does not go through the big block with the battery.  In dirt bikes at least for the ones when they introduced linkages the back of the engine could break up.

Not sure what else to mention.

[Fran K]

Kind of on a tangent not even related to the Pulse or Origin.  I bought a Yamaha GTS1000 years ago.  It is the sport tourer they imported for 1993 and 1994 with the single sided front suspension, ball joints and a splined shaft going up to the handlebars.  Well Can-Am has recently obtained patents for something similar.

[princec]

Not sure why hub-centred steering persists as an engineering goal. It is technically perfect but also ridiculously over complicated. BMW's Telelever is 99% of the benefits and 1% of the complexity. If I could convert my SRF to use a Telelever somehow I'd do it tomorrow.

Cas

[Fran K]

I avoided using the term hub centered steering.  I only read an article think it was on advrider and hard to remember if it was the article or the comments, but the Can-Am system was said not to be hub centered.  Is the BMW system's patents expired?  People used to ask me if it handles different, I would say not really until using brakes.  Now with the worn tires it is like counter steer to get it to turn, and it just stays stuck on that path, kind of want a full lane.  I don't think I have much used it except like a parade bike for quite a while.  With the saddlebags on I tipped over once and could pick it up.


Edit,  here is the advrider link that goes to a cycle world webpage.
https://www.advrider.com/spied-can-am-patents-hub-steering-design-for-ice-motorcycle/
it is not the splined shaft to the handlebars if my prior post left that impression.

[Fran K]

Today's update is I got a recall notice in the mail.  Best as I can tell for 2027 models they were calibrating the anti lock braking doing really hard braking and managed to snap the part that holds the caliper.  The supplier is KYB which on the USDOT web page is said to have an address in Tiawan province of China.  It states 398 models released into the US market and the place I got mine still has one (actually only one Origin and 2 pulse, pulse uses different shorter smaller diameter forks).  I was wondering if that thing might snap off if one fell over and it hit a rock.  There is a part number called out but it isn't on the parts sheets, I guess it is the aluminum piece at the bottom of the fork that holds the axle and brake and fender.  There is a support additional kit that is the remedy.  They use Jjuan brake maybe kyb made a special run?

https://can-am.brp.com/on-road/us/en/owners/safety/safety-recalls/potential-fatigue-failure-of-front-brake-caliper-support-loss-of-front-braking.html

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2026/RCLRPT-26V220-1715.pdf

Otherwise, I noticed I can't get on the bike turn the key and roll downhill and get going.  Have to come to a stop to get into drive.  Probably similar if some joker reaches over and turns your handlebar kill switch like I see on Youtube.  I have not experimented fully, but it does take quite a while to get it on after using that handlebar kill switch at a stop just like the KTM battery bike.

I am past 1000 miles and showing over 100 kwh on the evse I use most often.  It costs $0.29 per kwh (plus 9 something to be hooked up) when I examine my Eversource bill.  The place I use to make it safely to the bike club and back only charges $0.25 per kwh and if I us their rfid card which cost $5 there is only sales tax no 50 cent fee if using my smart phone.  Need to fund a wallet to use the card.  That might be noteworthy as last time I was at the bank they had a sign all day Sunday cards won't work because of system updates.

[TheRan]

Well that's a very unfortunate failure, hard to think of anything much worse that the front brake falling off. I couldn't find a decent photo of the Origin's front brake to see how it compares to the Pulse, I wouldn't have thought it would be any different except for having longer stanchions when they've got the same size rotor. I suppose the larger wheel can put slightly more force through the brake but I doubt that difference puts the Pulse under the limit.

I don't know how I'd feel about their fix being a reinforcement bracket. I know it will do the trick but it seems like a band-aid fix, a bit of a DIY solution someone would do at home. It probably has to be removed to remove the caliper and for the life of the bike it's always going to have to be there, if some future owner should forget to put it back they'll be back to being at risk.

[Fran K]

The front end dives a lot what with 10 inches of travel.  The I generally brake so the front end does not dive a lot.  It does not stop very well.  I trained myself to put the little finger on the ball at the end of the lever and adjusted lever position for where my grip was strongest.  If I remember right one YouTube video was testing out the abs and the rear wheel would come off the ground and then go back down. That is the fatigue in the literature.  Perhaps they were using a smaller diameter master cylinder in their tests. as it really was not up to modern standards for playing in traffic.  The part of the fork that attaches to what is drawn as the caliper in the parts sheet looks solid from the outside but has ridges on the inside.  The real fix if I think the "front brake caliper support" is part of the fork would be to make that casting differently or machine it from a solid piece or maybe forged?  It is just an update and a reminder of what is involved in selling a DOT approved vehicle in lots of over 200.