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[FlyMig]

Hello guys, just a quick advice if some of you might know something about how to go along with this issue. Bike is at 17.5k miles in Southern California, rode fine the night before, tried to charge the next morning and nothing.  No immobilizer lamp on the dashboard.  Looked at the 315 mAH inline glass fuse, seemed like that was the problem since it had a dark spot, replaced it and nothing.  The rest of the fuses are ok, tested it with the multimeter.  Also did the test on the molex connector on the left top side of the battery for 9V or anything and it reads 0V as per Chris Paz previous post.  I have no experience with electrics and can't really remove the PSU myself.  There is a place in Europe that repairs these but since my PSU is attached differently, idk who could remove it to send it in for repair.  Tried contacting Chris Paz but no luck and I understand the current circumstances.  We were really lucky to have him.
Picture included of Power Supply Unit or that at least what it looks like to me.
Any advice appreciated, thanks

Loved every moment with the bike while it worked, and would like to keep riding it for as long as I can

[NEW2elec]

I had a similar issue with my Zero.
I think it was the Main Bike Board fuse blew and replacing didn't help.

Turned out to be the fuse holder itself was bad.

Your issue could be from a completely different source but easy enough to check continuity across a good new fuse through the holder.

[Specter]

be careful checking a 315 ma fuse with the continuity tester function. some meters it puts out enough amps to actually blow the fuse while testing it.  cheap meters are notorious for this.  using a lower resistance setting and checking ohms might be a better way, and also very low ma fuses, they wont test at less than one ohm, some of them might show 5 or 10 ohms cold resistance and be good.

even though you replaced the fuse, that doesn't mean the new one is good. if something is shorted it could pip it the instant you touch it to the holder.

out of curiosity, why 315 ma,  why not 4/10 or half an amp? im sure there is some reason, it's giving impedance to the input of something etc, but curious to why.

Aaron

[FlyMig]

be careful checking a 315 ma fuse with the continuity tester function. some meters it puts out enough amps to actually blow the fuse while testing it.  cheap meters are notorious for this.  using a lower resistance setting and checking ohms might be a better way, and also very low ma fuses, they wont test at less than one ohm, some of them might show 5 or 10 ohms cold resistance and be good.

even though you replaced the fuse, that doesn't mean the new one is good. if something is shorted it could pip it the instant you touch it to the holder.

out of curiosity, why 315 ma,  why not 4/10 or half an amp? im sure there is some reason, it's giving impedance to the input of something etc, but curious to why.

Aaron

Thanks Aaron, yea I've tried at least three new fuses just to cover if one of them is bad with no results.  As for why this fuse, it's the same as stock and was recommended by Dom I believe (it worked on his bike).  I will not test it with my multimeter since mine cost about $7 from Harbour Freight haha.  It does the basic stuff plus I had to look up a video on how to use it.  I def need a pro to take a look at the bike. Can't believe that there is no one around the LA area.
Also to add, I sent a email to the current Energica guy and he recommended to take it to the dealer but I told him that those guys are not permitted or trained to open up battery components to which he didn't reply.  It's good at least that they are paying a guy to answer emails, so there is some sign of life...

[Specter]

how far is la from the san fran area, a no go for you or?

chris who used to work for energica is there and he still works on the bikes. Desmoni is his handle here,  or Demoni, i can't remember the exact spelling at this moment.  reach out to him, he might be able to help you with it or make arrangements.

aaron

[FlyMig]

It's probably a little over six hour drive from me but despite that I would do anything to get the bike fixed.  I sent two emails to Chris but he hasn't responded, it's to his gmail account and not the previous when he was with energica.  Also I would definitely pay for his services to diagnose the issue, not looking for a freebie haha.
I think at the moment the current Energica admin def doesn't seem to have any replacement parts or any personnel who would be qualified to work on these bikes.  That is probably a long time out, if it ever happens... fingers crossed

Thanks Aaron

[ESokoloff]

Let me see if I have this right….
The device pictured looks to be a DC/DC converter & it’s not working which is why the bike “has no power”.
Can you test for the 180~400 vdc input to the board?
If you have input voltage then that rules out the first cause (no input voltage).

[Specter]

sometimes chris can take a few days to reply, he has other things going on and at times, is on the road fixing other bikes.
he does check here fairly often so hopefully gets back with you in a few days.

possibly the key is goofed up,  did you try cycling it a few times,  maybe the switch fell off the back of the mechanical part,... just throwing some quick things out you can check while waiting for chris.

just for s and g can you plug the ac charger in and see if that causes it to do anything.

aaron

[FlyMig]

I can't test for high voltage due to safety reasons, but what you can test yourself is the 9V output that comes from the board itself. If that is not flowing, then your bike will not start. 
Aaron the bike is keyless, immobilizer lamp is out, no response from the startup button.  I've tried charging and it only says connecting but no response from the bike.

The good news is that I am able either to buy the new part or to send my broken one for repair just in case anyone in the future runs into the same problem.

[ESokoloff]

I can't test for high voltage due to safety reasons,
…..

The good news is that I am able either to buy the new part or to send my broken one for repair just in case anyone in the future runs into the same problem.

I’m not understanding why you can’t check for incoming voltage but suspect that’s a personal decision (not a bad one at that if you’re not comfortable).

You could contact the manufacturer & see if they can help you troubleshoot this or possibly recommend a local (SoCal) vender that could look at it.
From the board you’ll find this info,
CINCON
CFB600-300S12N

A quick search netted a similar unit under $400 so throwing parts at it might pay off (as apposed to paying substantially more to have someone condemn it & then change it).

[Specter]

Well if you tried to charge and it said connecting.  then that means the 12 volt is working otherwise it'd not power up. so it is getting power to the head unit it appears.

that sounds like it lost it's mind like a hard reset was done or it locked up in some software fuckmode.  i had my ribelle do this once.
try holding the on button down for like a minute straight.  sucks i know but it might unlock if it is.  ive had this happen to me on the let go from a fast charge for some reason it corrupted at the end of the cycle and just froze.

do you have a key that works,  try plugging it in to charge, when it is powered on ... in it's attempt to charge (you know it's on then) try to hold the key on your left front fairing about where the logo is and see if you can get it to go into some sort of login screen.   

worse case orange key it, which will wipe everything, then you'll have to re teach it your keys and possibly 4 digit code too.

can't guarantee any of this will work but it's worth a try since it seems you might be getting power.

aaron.

[Grauteufel]

CINCON
CFB600-300S12N
[/quote]

This is actually very useful information and helps work out a 12v power budget

[ESokoloff]

Well if you tried to charge and it said connecting.  then that means the 12 volt is working otherwise it'd not power up. so it is getting power to the head unit it appears.
………

can't guarantee any of this will work but it's worth a try since it seems you might be getting power.

….

Not sure how you’ve determined that the bike has power when the OP has stated….


“tried to charge the next morning and nothing.  No immobilizer lamp on the dashboard.  Looked at the 315 mAH inline glass fuse, seemed like that was the problem since it had a dark spot, replaced it and nothing.  The rest of the fuses are ok, tested it with the multimeter.  Also did the test on the molex connector on the left top side of the battery for 9V or anything and it reads 0V”

[ESokoloff]

CINCON
CFB600-300S12N

This is actually very useful information and helps work out a 12v power budget
[/quote]

This information is from the OP’s image.
The manufacturer & part # are printed on the top of the unit. 

Cincon has other DC/DC converter modules of different capacities as well.
https://www.cincon.com/

[FlyMig]

Yea, you can actually purchase a brand-new unit here in the US or have it repaired in Europe with warranty (with a more robust replacement part).  The issue for now and I hope it might get sorted out soon is to have someone that knows these bikes to replace it.  Both parties have confirmed that I def have something burned at the board causing the bike not to have low power.  I will def keep you guys updated so that if anyone in the future has their bike bricked just like this can get back on the road asap.
Energica did make some amazing machines, and I don't want to get another ICE bike as a replacement any time soon haha