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[SteveA]

I've noticed a few times this week when getting on my bike that it appears to be unresponsive to turning the key to the on position. Turning it off and back on again gets it going, but I don't want to live with it like that and the fear it'll get worse. Any suggestions of what to check/service?
The bike is used five days a week, so the fault is unlikely to be down to lack of use.

[TheRan]

I've not had that specific issue but I've had plenty of times when mine has been difficult to turn or get the key in or frozen up completely during Winter, the little red flap doesn't do a great job of protecting it from the elements. I would suggest spraying some contact cleaner in there and working it back and forth plenty, then afterwards spray in some sort of lubricant. I use WD40 branded dry PTFE and it seems to last fairly well.

[T.S. Zarathustra]

Last winter my Gen2 ignition froze so I started to look for replacement. Found some for around 300-400. Some Benelli models use exact same ignition (even the same plug) that can be sourced for less. This depends on your exact type of ignition, ChatGPT recommended incorrect type for my bike (my key does not have chip).
My bike has "single use" mounting screws for the ignition. You need proper tools (welder or chisels) to remove them. Then replace with new screws, preferably with Allen head.

[Specter]

perhaps i am wrong but.  if your bike is not using a chipped key, ie security features... at the end of the day, is the 'key on' basically just sending a signal somewhere saying, ok key inserted knob turned... can you touch a few wires together somewhere and it's the same as when you turn the key, everything clicks in and a contact is made.. somewhere...

Aaron

[TheRan]

Yes it's just a switch, that's how the vast majority of bikes work. Don't know why you're suggesting hotwiring it though when that's even more involved than turning it off and on again to get it working.

[SteveA]

If it is just a matter of poor electical contact at the switch it could either be within the switch body or from the wires connecting to it. Hotwiring would get around the internal swich contact issue, if that's where the problem lies.
Either way, it looks like I may need to pull off some trim to check for any obvious damage/deterioration to the switch body and wires connected to it.

[Specter]

you could try spraying some contact cleaner in it to see if that helps.  test some first on a rag and an out of the way place to make sure it won't mess with your plastic and be very careful on the spray anyways.  it could just be a bit of crud or corrosion and that could help clean it up a bit.

Also, those single use screws, depending on the model, can be worked using a small dremmel or a punch / and or ez out if need be.  or just size correctly and drill core out w/o cutting too wide and hitting treads.   good luck
Aaron

[SteveA]

It's been okay for a few days, but this afternoon it took six or seven tries. I've discovered that by turning the key back slightly, contact is made and I can use the bike, so that really points to dirty and/or failing contacts in the key switch.

Given I've had the bike for about five years and on average use it five days per week, the swich has only had around 2,600 contacts made, so pretty low for a switch. I've squirted some WD-40 type oil into the switch and exercised the switch back a few times, but with no apparent improvement. The trouble is that I don't know how the keyswitch is assembled, so squirting something down the key slot may never reach the contacts if it's sealed off.

I might have to prepare myself to replace the key switch assembly with removal as suggested by Aaron

[SteveA]

Been out to the garage to have another look at this. As I suspected, the switch is separate to the key, so the spray I put in won't have done anything for the electrical contacts. The switch itself is secured to the underside of the key barrel by two normal screws.




After some choice words I had the switch out




I made a half hearted attempt at taking the switch apart before discovering that putting a screwdriver into the switch enabled me to turn it through 360 degrees and in doing so (I suspect) cleaning the contacts much better that the usual 90 degrees when fitted.
I'll leave it alone for now as I need to continue using it for the commute, but at least replacement doesn't require removal of any security screws.