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Author Topic: Rear Shock Screw  (Read 15884 times)

jotjotde

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Rear Shock Screw
« on: August 25, 2025, 06:31:40 PM »

Hi! While servicing the bike I saw that the screw fixing the rear shock to the swing shows signs of surfacial corrosion.
It's a M10 x 45 mm which I would like to substitute for a titanium screw. Question is, is the thread a 1,25 (fine thread) or a 1,50 (normal thread).
I have no means of extracting the screw for measurement right now.

Can anyone answer this question?
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smithy

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Re: Rear Shock Screw
« Reply #1 on: August 26, 2025, 01:37:53 AM »

Being a shock mount and a highly "structural" shear strength application...I'd imagine it should be a high tensile bolt....don't know if titanium is up to it.

Titanium is a lot lighter/stronger per weight but not outright shear strength per the same bolt size.

Smithy.
« Last Edit: August 26, 2025, 07:21:28 AM by smithy »
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Specter

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Re: Rear Shock Screw
« Reply #2 on: August 26, 2025, 03:16:25 AM »

Good point smithy.  He'd probably want a grade 5 or higher bolt, and make sure it's lubed up.  Titanium, like stainless can gall. 

Aaron
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smithy

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Re: Rear Shock Screw
« Reply #3 on: August 26, 2025, 07:28:06 AM »

Good point smithy.  He'd probably want a grade 5 or higher bolt, and make sure it's lubed up.  Titanium, like stainless can gall. 

Aaron

I'd be prepared to say possibly higher...maybe 8.8, 10.9 or 12.9. Stronger won't hurt.

Smithy.
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Specter

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Re: Rear Shock Screw
« Reply #4 on: August 26, 2025, 07:54:26 AM »

Does titanium grade equal to steel?  steel would probably start at grade 8 to be safe for that tensile shear strength.  Not sure how it translates to titanium.  be prepared to pay for that too.

Aaron
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smithy

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Re: Rear Shock Screw
« Reply #5 on: August 26, 2025, 08:35:04 AM »

Does titanium grade equal to steel?  steel would probably start at grade 8 to be safe for that tensile shear strength.  Not sure how it translates to titanium.  be prepared to pay for that too.

Aaron

Titanium is strong per weight...but compared to a grade 12.9 steel bolt of the same size...not even close. If my calculations are correct...you'd have to nearly double the diameter of the titanium bolt to equal a high tensile 12.9 bolt. A grade 5 titanium bolt is approximately equal to a grade 8 steel bolt...but each higher grade of steel is essentially exponential in tensile/shear strength. Although the titanium bolt is ~45% lighter for the same size steel bolt.

Smithy.
« Last Edit: August 27, 2025, 01:39:47 AM by smithy »
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jotjotde

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Re: Rear Shock Screw
« Reply #6 on: August 26, 2025, 11:34:01 AM »

@smithy: Thank you for the hint! I checked that shear strength issue.

Shear strength is proportional to the tensile strength of the material of the screw.
Titanium grade 5 (3.7165) has a tensile strength of 900 MPa which is exactly in between that of a 8.8 and a 10.9 screw. Thus a titanium screw would be superior to a 8.8 but approx. 10 % weaker than a 10.9.
As an alternative to titanium a special steel A4-109 appears to be available.

So the question is, what class the bolt on the rear shock is. Unfortunately I cannot see any stamp on it (like on the bolts holding the brake discs, they are 10.9).
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Pard

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Re: Rear Shock Screw
« Reply #7 on: August 26, 2025, 05:02:14 PM »

I am using a Titanium lower shock bolt on my rebelle with a securing nut.  That shock clevis does not have a captive nut.

So far so good, but you got me thinking of going back to steel.

Here is what I use:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/133507068513?var=432966129569

Made to DIN 6921 specifications
1.25mm or 1.50mm pitch
Made from certified Titanium Grade 5 6AL-4V bar
Rolled threads for greater fatigue strength
Super strong 120ksi yield strength capability
Corrosion resistant w/ reduce galling
Manufactured to ISO 9001 Quality Standards
Same strength as steel - Nearly half the weight!
Quality inspected before shipping
LIFETIME WARRANTY
Made in the USA


Asked Grok about suitability of the above bolt:

Yes, this titanium bolt appears suitable for use as a lower shock clevis bolt on a very heavy motorcycle (e.g., touring models like a Harley-Davidson Electra Glide or Honda Gold Wing, which can exceed 800–900 lbs fully loaded), provided it's sized correctly for the application (matching the OEM bolt's diameter, length, and thread pitch) and installed with proper torque specs and anti-seize to prevent galling. However, steel bolts are often the default choice in such positions for reasons I'll explain below. Let's break this down based on the bolt's specs, material properties, and real-world usage in motorcycle suspensions.
Key Material Comparison: Titanium Grade 5 vs. Steel
The bolt is made from certified Titanium Grade 5 (Ti-6Al-4V), which is a common aerospace-grade alloy. Its advertised 120 ksi (about 827 MPa) yield strength is comparable to high-strength steel bolts (e.g., SAE Grade 8 or ISO 10.9, which have yield strengths around 130 ksi / 896 MPa). Here's a quick table summarizing pros/cons for this specific application, where the bolt acts primarily as a shear pin (in double shear through the clevis yoke connecting the shock to the frame or swingarm) under high loads, vibrations, and potential impacts:

Titanium Grade 5 (This Bolt)Steel (e.g., High-Strength Alloy like Grade 8)StrengthHigh tensile/yield (120 ksi yield; ultimate tensile ~138 ksi / 950 MPa). Shear strength ~79 ksi (550 MPa). Matches or exceeds many steel bolts in critical loads.Slightly higher in some grades (e.g., 130 ksi yield). More ductile, with better elongation (12–18%) before failure.Weight~45–50% lighter than steel equivalents—useful for reducing unsprung weight in suspension, improving handling on heavy bikes.Heavier, but negligible impact on a very heavy motorcycle unless you're chasing every gram (e.g., for racing).Corrosion ResistanceExcellent; resists rust from road salt, moisture, or off-road exposure without coatings. Ideal for long-term use on touring/heavy bikes.Prone to rust unless zinc-plated or stainless (stainless steel is corrosion-resistant but ~15–20% weaker than alloy steel).Fatigue ResistanceGood with rolled threads (as specified), which enhance durability under cyclic loads like bumps/vibrations. Lower modulus of elasticity (~16 msi / 110 GPa) allows more flex/stretch, potentially absorbing shocks better than stiffer steel.Excellent; higher modulus (~29 msi / 200 GPa) makes it stiffer, but it can handle repeated flex without cracking as readily in high-vibration spots.Galling/WearReduced galling per specs (likely due to surface treatment), but titanium can still seize in threads if not lubricated—use anti-seize compound.Less prone to galling; easier to torque without issues. Better for pins/locating roles where wear from movement occurs.Cost & AvailabilityMore expensive (2–5x steel); specialized, with lifetime warranty here.Cheaper and widely available; OEMs often use steel for cost/reliability.Potential DrawbacksSlightly more brittle in extreme overloads (lower elongation ~10–15%); can fatigue if undersized or over-torqued. Not ideal if the bike sees extreme abuse (e.g., heavy off-roading).Heavier; corrodes faster without maintenance.

"Same strength as steel" claim: This holds true when comparing to equivalent-grade steel bolts. Titanium's strength-to-weight ratio is superior, but in absolute terms, steel can offer a slight edge in ductility for shock mounts where the bolt might experience bending or impact loads on a heavy bike.
DIN 6921 specs: This standard ensures the hex flange head provides good clamping and resistance to loosening, which is fine for a clevis application.

Suitability for Lower Shock Clevis on a Heavy Motorcycle

Why titanium works well here:

Shock clevis bolts are under compressive/shear loads from the bike's weight (including rider, passenger, luggage—potentially 1,000+ lbs on heavy tourers) and dynamic forces from riding. Titanium's properties make it a popular upgrade in racing, motocross, and aftermarket parts for brands like Honda CRF, Evil Bikes, and Ibis, where Ti lower shock bolts are sold specifically as replacements for steel OEMs. These reduce weight without sacrificing strength, and the corrosion resistance is a bonus for heavy bikes used in all-weather touring.
In pro racing (e.g., MotoGP), titanium is used in suspension components for weight savings under extreme conditions. User opinions on platforms like X and forums highlight its strength parity with steel while being lighter and rust-proof.
For heavy bikes, the bolt's 1.25mm or 1.50mm pitch (fine threads) provides better load distribution and vibration resistance, aligning with DIN standards.


Why steel might be preferred:

Steel's higher stiffness and ductility make it more forgiving in high-impact or overload scenarios common on heavy motorcycles (e.g., potholes with full load). Titanium can be more "brittle" in feel during torquing, requiring precise tools to avoid snapping. Some mechanics avoid Ti in non-racing apps due to galling risks or higher cost for minimal gains.
If the bike is very heavy and used for utilitarian purposes (not performance-oriented), steel offers a better safety margin without the need for special installation care. OEMs like Harley or BMW often stick with steel for reliability.
No specific warnings against Ti in heavy bike shocks, but general advice: avoid it in areas prone to fatigue cracks (e.g., linkage bolts) unless spec-matched.



Recommendations

Use this titanium bolt if: You're prioritizing weight reduction, corrosion resistance, or aesthetics (e.g., custom build), and the bike isn't subjected to extreme abuse. Confirm the size (e.g., M10 or M12 diameter, common for shocks) matches your motorcycle's OEM spec—check your service manual. Torque to ~70–80% of steel values (consult a torque chart for Ti Grade 5) and use anti-seize.
Stick with steel if: Cost, ease of replacement, or maximum durability under heavy loads is your focus. A high-grade steel bolt (e.g., from ARP or OEM) will perform identically without the premium price.
General tips: Inspect regularly for wear, as any bolt in this position can loosen from vibrations. The lifetime warranty and ISO 9001/USA manufacturing add confidence in quality. If unsure, consult a mechanic familiar with your bike model.

If you provide the motorcycle model or exact bolt size needed, I can refine this further.
« Last Edit: August 26, 2025, 05:09:01 PM by Pard »
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jotjotde

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Re: Rear Shock Screw
« Reply #8 on: August 27, 2025, 12:19:12 PM »

Thanks. Unfortunately, the info I was originally asking for is still missing.

@Pard: You write, you already replaced the bolt on the rear shock but did not tell what threat pitch you used. The ebay seller you linked offers both pitches (1.25 and 1.50). I would very much appreciate if you could specify!


In the Grok text I strongly object to the 70-80 % recommendation: Quote: ' Torque to ~70–80% of steel values (consult a torque chart for Ti Grade 5) and use anti-seize.'
That goes against common sense and IMO could even lead to dangerously undertightened screws.

I rather stick to recommendations of trusted sellers like Pro-Bolt, which, if I am not misinformed, is an US manufacturer. You can find their recommendations here: https://www.probolt-usa.com/torque-information/
Quote: 'For both Titanium & Stainless Steel where possible use the same torque as manufacturer’s originals. For fasteners in safety applications on a Motorcycle, use your manufacturers torque guide when fitting Flanged Hex Head or Tapered Socket Cap fasteners.'

For safety applications like brake bolts, brake disc bolts etc. I bought there.
For other uses like fairings fasteners I have no problem to buy stuff from a Chinese manufacturer.


For anyone who is interested: It appears to me that Energica specifies torques which are below the maximum values of the used screws.
Brake disc screws M8: Energica 30 Nm, max. 37 Nm (they are class 10.9)
Rear brake caliper screws M8: Energica 30 Nm, max. 35 Nm
Front brake caliper screws M10: Energica 40 Nm, max. 49 Nm



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Pard

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Re: Rear Shock Screw
« Reply #9 on: August 27, 2025, 02:58:36 PM »

OOPs.  Sorry about that!

I am using a Ohlins rear shock , should have indicated as such, that does not have a captive nut, so I am using a titanium nut as well with a pitch of 1.5

Not sure what the original shock captive nut thread might be, sorry about that!
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Specter

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Re: Rear Shock Screw
« Reply #10 on: August 28, 2025, 02:22:54 AM »

Grok is probably recommending going easy on the torque because Titanium is known to shear if over torqued, where steel will take it a bit more.

One thing you can do, which i do on my bikes is i'll paint a line on nuts/bolts with a sharpie, fingernail polish, whatever as applicable.  This way, if something is moving, twisting off, ill know immediately when the line splits.  Kind of an early warning that you might have a problem brewing.

Depending on how much penetrates through, can't you possibly drill a small hole in the end so you can lockwire it?  I know some racers who done that to a lot of stuff to keep it in place.

Aaron
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jotjotde

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Re: Rear Shock Screw
« Reply #11 on: August 28, 2025, 11:49:36 AM »

@ Pard: Thanks for clearifying. Interesting to know that Oehlins has a different approach to this. Just as a personal remark, you would increase safety by choosing a bolt with fine thread, i.e. 1.25, but from what I have seen, it is not easy to find a matching nut.

@ Aaron: Thanks for your tip with the marking of screws, that's helpful. I always thought these markings on bikes are just a visual confirmation from the mechanics after having tightened them to avoid missing any bolts.


Yesterday I removed the rear wheel for tire change and measured the thread of the rear shock bolt because there are approx. 4 mm sticking out. I suspect due to the fact that a 40 mm screw would be a millimeter too short, they chose a 45 mm.
With 95 % probability (there were only 3 threads for measurement), it's 'fine' thread with 1.25 pitch.

That would make that bolt a M10 x 1.25. X 45 (size x pitch x length).

Bolt class is probably 8.8, so if you install a 10.9 you are on the safe side. Installation with medium loctite is strongly advised.
Personally I also advise to protect the protruding bolt as it is exposed to water and debris from the tire. Maybe a bit of grease every now and then will be helpful to avoid the bolt to rot.

And there will be rot! I also indicated severe corrosion of the mid point where the rear fender is attached.
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Pard

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Re: Rear Shock Screw
« Reply #12 on: August 28, 2025, 02:55:35 PM »

Great information and pictures, thanks @jotjotde

I am going to replace my Ti bolt and nut with a steel unit.
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jotjotde

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Re: Rear Shock Screw
« Reply #13 on: August 28, 2025, 03:10:12 PM »

Pard, you're welcome!

I asked my dealer what torque Energica is recommending for this bolt: 40 Nm (at least for the Bitubo shock damper).

Considering that a 8.8 bolt with regular pitch can be tightened with up to 49 Nm and a titanium bolt has a max torque between that and a class 10.9 (70 Nm), there should be ample safety when you keep the titanium regular thread bolt.

For the Bitubo the relatively low torque makes total sense if you look how thin the 'fork' side plate is which has the female thread in it. Even with the 1.25 pitch you cannot get many thread windings inside, so the force this thin material can take is limited.

Summarizing: Substituting the orginial steel bolt against a titanium bolt (Grade 5) should not compromise the safety.
« Last Edit: August 28, 2025, 03:12:50 PM by jotjotde »
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Pard

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Re: Rear Shock Screw
« Reply #14 on: August 28, 2025, 05:13:35 PM »

Pard, you're welcome!

I asked my dealer what torque Energica is recommending for this bolt: 40 Nm (at least for the Bitubo shock damper).

Considering that a 8.8 bolt with regular pitch can be tightened with up to 49 Nm and a titanium bolt has a max torque between that and a class 10.9 (70 Nm), there should be ample safety when you keep the titanium regular thread bolt.

For the Bitubo the relatively low torque makes total sense if you look how thin the 'fork' side plate is which has the female thread in it. Even with the 1.25 pitch you cannot get many thread windings inside, so the force this thin material can take is limited.

Summarizing: Substituting the orginial steel bolt against a titanium bolt (Grade 5) should not compromise the safety.

The captive nut makes more sense IMHO.  Without it, the bolt has to have some amount of thread portion supporting the clevis instead of clean bolt or bushing shaft.  Seems like that would matter.
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