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[szczur333]

Does the law require each phase to be loaded near equally, or how much can it vary by?


-Don-  Reno, NV

difference can be max 30 or 32A, energy companies can see all data remotely - loading one phase more is breaking an agreement between you and energy company - they can termination of the contract with you
(I hope i use right words and you understand what I mean)

anyway i charged my tesla with 3-4kW max for 3 years and maybe 3-4 times I need faster rates

now I have extrenal DC charger so I can charge at 20kW and loads 6,7kW each phase - this is for future cars bcoz definanetly I will go with rivian r1t, also charge my energica faster at home

[DonTom]

I decided to do the work myself, to fix Energica's old design flaw (IMAO) up to the year of my 2020 SS9-, 13.4KWH batt, which IIRC, is even heavier than the 21.5 KWH packs because of all the cooling stuff Energica used to brag about which they decided was not necessary at all just a year later, and they could do a lighter and much larger KWH battery.


Anyway, Energica made some great improvements since those days, so I cannot complain, other than getting stuck with it since year 2019 for my 2020 model.


There is no hurry, and the bike is still ridable as well as AC input chargeable as is. But since I now have two other Energicas, I figure there is no hurry, but I kinda already started on it, with all the covers off.


See the filenames below for what is what, I am showing the path from the HV from the J-1772 receptacle into the battery and a few other things. I am showing the orange plug that is in series with it.


I am also showing my new crane that I purchased from ChinaTools (HFT) yesterday. It looks like it can do the job and it goes as high as possible in my garage.


I am going to see if I can buy the necessary cables and other parts, and my plan is to put at least a 100-amp fuse in the battery but a 75-amp easy to get to fuse externally, to protect the 100-amp. If I can find an even higher rate fuse that will fit in the battery, I will, as long as I have the external 75-amp fuse.  Looks like there could be a spot for such on the right side of the motor that has enough room as well as a way to mount. Other possibilities as well.


No hurry on this project and I still have questions.


Can somebody here tell me where the fuse location is inside the 13.4KW battery and how to get to it?  Or do I just start taking it apart and find it that way?

The top photo is the HV DC charge to the battery rear bottom. Only used for the DCFC. It is in series with the orange connector that I now have disconnected and goes to the two large HV pins on the J-connector.

-Don-  Reno, NV

[DonTom]

Here are some more photos, such as a full view of the crane and a couple of more photos just because I had my camera, such as my 1971 BMW (purchased new in May of 1971) a few months after I got back from the jungles of Vietnam--where it was difficult to spend the military pay, the vet plate "V11B" to those who have been in the army will know it means "Vietnam-Infantry".


Yeah, I am that old! But the most meaningless measurement of age is time, IMAO.



And a photo of all my toys here at this house.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[DonTom]

It has not been an issue for a long time but there was a period many years ago where some EVGO stations had a voltage spike at the start of the session. This resulted in a input current that exceeded that of the fuse causing it to be tripped.

I have good reasons to believe the spike is now at the very end of the EV-Go charge session.


All SEEMED ok at the EV-Go charger. Got a full charge until it shut off what appeared to be normally.  However, I could not charge at the NEXT DCFC, which was EV-Range. At first, I assumed it was a problem at EV-Range because the last charge was fine at EV-Go (I thought!). But I got in contact with EV-Range via email. Their computer shows everything that happens with every charge. It showed my bike never got ANY charge at all, not even for a fraction of a second. Since it is not possible to blow a 90-amp fuse with no current, it sure looks like the problem was at the very end of the EV-Go charge, right when it shut off, perhaps with a big fat spike.


And David's story is very similar to mine, but it was two EV-Goes in a row, and he got no charge from the 2nd charger from the very start.


I just thought I should pass this info on, as I assume there is still an issue, but at the end of the charge, not the start, with at least some EV-Goes.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[Specter]

Then again, IF his equipment potentially caused hundreds or a thousand dollars worth of damage, fuse replacement plus time and maybe other stuff, he may be VERY reluctant to say, oh yah we did it.  Him denying seeing anything whether it's there or not is very plausible.
oh no sir, we don't even see you on the planet, are you sure you own a bike??

Aaron

[DonTom]

I replaced the blown 90-amp fuse (I was expecting it to be 75-amps) in the battery pack with a 100-amp. I have the battery back on the bike. It was a tough job all because of the weight of the battery but can be done safely as a one-man job if being careful.


But now I have a weird problem. My 2020 SS9- is at 90% SOC. Over 300 VDC into the inverter, but bike now gives a code P1000 and tells me "Battery is depleted" and will not start because it "thinks" (incorrectly) that my well charged up to 90% SOC battery is near dead.


So where did I screw up at? Besides for the SOC%, where else is this voltage detected?  Whatever it is, doesn't see my voltage as normal at >+300 VDC @90% SOC.


I notice one small white four-pin female cable connector on the VCU does not go anywhere. I am not sure if there is a connection for it that I cannot find or if it never did go anywhere.


Any guess of where I screwed up?


-Don-  Reno, NV

[Specter]

 messing with it yourself instead of taking it to the Energica shop down the road, where they know what they are doing. 

aaron

[Richard230]

There is nothing like the School of Hard Knocks to teach some lifelong lessons.  Says someone who has learned a lot over many years of working on motorcycles in my garage and making more than my share of mistakes. (Why do I have an extra part left over after reassembling everything?)

[DonTom]

There is nothing like the School of Hard Knocks to teach some lifelong lessons.  Says someone who has learned a lot over many years of working on motorcycles in my garage and making more than my share of mistakes. (Why do I have an extra part left over after reassembling everything?)

Yes, I have learned a few things about this bike from working on it, just as with my others. The hidden spot where a bolt goes is a common mistake.


One big mistake I keep on making is to forget to take many photos of the different areas of the bike before I touch anything. Especially connectors and bolts that I think could be difficult to notice later. And especially of loose connectors that go nowhere so I will know for later. Also, string tags for some things. I did none of that stuff on this bike and then after I started, I went on vacation for a couple of weeks, so forgot a few things when I got back to continue to work on it.


Next time I start such a project I will try harder to remember to get my camera out and save a bunch of pictures of all areas of the bike.


But for now, I really need to know how it "thinks" I have a "depleted battery" when it shows at 90% SOC at above 300 VDC into the inverter, just before the bike shuts down for having a "depleted battery". One thing I did do correctly was to home charge the battery to 90% SOC before I started to work on it just in case it takes months to fix it.



Also, now it will not charge by any method. Screen looks normal until I check status, which gives me the P1000 which means "battery under voltage" which is obviously not correct. Or when I try to turn it on when it says, "battery depleted, recharge before use". But also, will not charge. Sometimes I get an "undefined fault" message instead.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[Specter]

probably should take it to the energica dealer near you at this point, before you make things worse.
Im sure they'd also appreciate the business, to help them stay in business, to keep fixing things when the 'experts' break them.

id have them install the fuse properly too, and investigate why it's blowing and don't just automatically assume it's the chargers fault.  Fuses blow for a reason, and you have molested that bike some. so.......better safe than sorry.

Aaron

[DonTom]

I have been working on my SS9- off and on, avoiding the very hot afternoons days and such.

I am glad my bike did NOT work after I put it back together! But I had to do this job twice and then some. And was the most difficult automotive job I have ever done, mainly because of the battery weight making it very difficult to work with. And also is difficult to take apart when it has fresh sealant on the covers.


The DCFC fuse is on the right side of the pack, so there is no reason to open the left side to replace the DCFC fuse.


I ran out of ideas to fix the thing and decided to look inside the battery LEFT side. And there was the problem, and I think this connector had to be loose from the factory because it clicks & locks back in and holds tight. I believe it would break if it was pulled out with force from the small cable, so I have good reasons to believe it was always in, but not to where it snaps in locked.


IMO, working on the battery caused it to fully fall out. I was somewhat rough with it at times (it's a big job!). But I certainly would rather have this happen in my garage than a thousand miles away from home.


Here is the photo of what I found on the pack's left side and the PC board it connects to.


I still need to glue the battery and bike back together, but I do expect it will now work as it should. It was the bottom white Molex connector that was out. I see I took the photo after I plugged it back in.


Edit: I see I plugged it back in before the photo. It was the bottom six pin connector that uses only three wires that was not connected.  IOW, the white Molex connector plug just above the screw for the inverter cable guide.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[Pard]

Wow!  Great detective work!  Well done indeed.

[DonTom]

Wow!  Great detective work!  Well done indeed.

Bike is back together, rides fine, no errors. I am now starting on my DCFC 80-amp easy to get to fuse modification. This battery in and out job is one I do not want to do again after already doing it twice!


Inside the battery pack, it now has a hundred-amp DCFC fuse. The original was a 90-amp fuse that blew. The 80-amp will be in series and hopefully will blow first protecting the 100-amp in case of a large spike or whatever.


From now on, I decided I will DCFC all my Energicas at 55 amps. I am rarely in a hurry these days and I noticed battery on "yellow" not as often as when I used to charge at full. Next charge probably has a cooler battery. But not by much, as less current but longer time.


I chopped off the DCFC wires from the plug and see below for what I am now working on to wire in the extra lower current (80-amp) fuse.


Below is the plug from the bike side. No need to touch the DCFC connector on the battery side as below will plug into it.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[DerKrawallkeks]

Interesting.
The temperature increase is proportional to the waste heat energy.
The waste heat energy is waste heat power multiplied by the time.
The waste heat power is I^2*R.

If you're charging at twice the speed, it'll have 4 times for waste heat power but only for half as long.
Therefore I believe that at half the charging speed you'll also get half the overall temperature increase.

Basically the the temperature increase is inversely proportional to the charging speed, rather simple to remember.

[DonTom]

Interesting.
The temperature increase is proportional to the waste heat energy.
The waste heat energy is waste heat power multiplied by the time.
The waste heat power is I^2*R.

If you're charging at twice the speed, it'll have 4 times for waste heat power but only for half as long.
Therefore I believe that at half the charging speed you'll also get half the overall temperature increase.

Basically the the temperature increase is inversely proportional to the charging speed, rather simple to remember.

Yeah, there are several advantages for waiting a bit longer for a charge--especially when it comes to blowing a fuse that is located inside the battery pack.  BTW, there are three fuses in there IIRC, also one for the output to the motor inverter, 300-amps, IIRC. I didn't try to figure out what the other is for--or even if it is really a fuse but looks like a very large one.


-Don-  Reno, NV