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[DonTom]

I‘m afraid I don‘t know the PN for the repair kit. Google was not very helpful with that, so I would recommend to contact a Brembo sales office, possibly via a local motorcycle dealer, and ask for that.

I assume this is it for the seals. But does not include the pistons which I will search for later.


My plan is to use the new caliper, but correctly rebuild the old one.



-Don-  Auburn, CA

[DonTom]

I assume this would be a good piston for the caliper rebuild:

[DonTom]

I now put a few hundred miles on my 2020 SS9- with the very mickey-mouse rear caliper repair. Only the first seal is in on each side, and it's a cheap O-ring from HFT. I was very surprised it worked at all and now I am even more surprised that it works perfectly, at least as well as the rear brake did when the bike was new.

And I am now wondering if this will even outlast the original. The OEM lasted less than 11K miles (18 km) which is not much on a bike that uses mostly regen for the rear wheel to slow.

Nevertheless, I will rebuild it when I get the parts, which should be in few more days.

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[jotjotde]

May I add for everyone who is interested in that issue that Brembo lists a caliper P2-RS84 with parts no. 120B27810 as an official replacement.
This caliper appears to be colored a bit darker than the 920B85293 and comes including brake pads for approx. 180 EUR.
There are also 4-piston replacements listed for Energica EVAs, but last time I checked they cost around 550 EUR.

[DonTom]

May I add for everyone who is interested in that issue that Brembo lists a caliper P2-RS84 with parts no. 120B27810 as an official replacement.This caliper appears to be colored a bit darker than the 920B85293 and comes including brake pads for approx. 180 EUR.There are also 4-piston replacements listed for Energica EVAs, but last time I checked they cost around 550 EUR.

I received my rear caliber today. It is an exact match of the one in my 2020 Essee Esse 9. I also received my stainless-steel brake pistons. But the new brake pads and seals are taking their time to get here.


Perhaps I can buy the brake pads at the local dealer, but there is no hurry.


I am going to install the new rear brake caliper when I get the new brake pads. The caliper I am removing will be rebuilt with the stainless-steel pistons and new stock seals, which will be a spare that I will probably never use.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[DonTom]

I replaced the caliper with new & with new pads. The new spring (that goes under the pin on top of the pads) was very difficult to fit, but I got the job done.


I have ridden the bike a few hundred miles since then. TBH, I feel no difference between the new correct rear brake setup and my previous very mickey-mouse repair. But it is working as it should.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[chisquare]

Are you happy with the rear brake performance on the SS9? I almost never used mine because I run regen at level 2. However, after having the entire rear brake replaced (it seized, overheated, and lost all fluid), I’m surprised by how weak the new one feels. I can barely get the ABS to kick in — it takes what feels like around 20 kg of pressure on the lever, and even then the braking effect is extremely poor.

Do you have any suggestions for improving the rear brake’s performance?
Cheers, Urs

[Specter]

Is all the air bled out of the lines, and the new cylinder completely filled with new fluid etc etc?  Having air in the system can cause issues.
on occasion, when putting a new brake / caliper / piston etc in it can take more than one bleed down from the initial fill-install.

Aaron

[chisquare]

Thanks for the input, Aaron. I didn’t fit it myself, so I’ll have the mechanic give it another bleed.

[Specter]

It may not necessarily be needing a bleed, a potential clog can cause issues too but sounds like something isn't right.  Air in the line can cause issues, feeling like it's spongy, or you need to press harder because you are fighting with that 'springy mass' since it compresses, and fluids really don't.  If you seized it and it btfu, unless he replaced every component there could be varnish, or crud got somewhere too.  Normally when you burn them that hard, the brake fluid can burn off, boil off, leaving soot, varnish, all sorts of undesirable crud in your system.

I wouldn't go in and directly tell your mechanic, you need to re bleed it, as that may not fix it, but describe what you are feeling, and perhaps ask, do you think it needs to be bled again?  otherwise if you say, bleed it, and that's not it, he bleeds as you said, you pay, and still have the problem.

also, since you are there, how does the brake feel, if you want to adjust it's position etc, nows the time as well.

Aaron

[DonTom]

Are you happy with the rear brake performance on the SS9? I almost never used mine because I run regen at level 2. However, after having the entire rear brake replaced (it seized, overheated, and lost all fluid), I’m surprised by how weak the new one feels. I can barely get the ABS to kick in — it takes what feels like around 20 kg of pressure on the lever, and even then the braking effect is extremely poor.

Do you have any suggestions for improving the rear brake’s performance?
Cheers, Urs

Yes, it works very well, but I rarely need it because of the high regen.


A simple way to bleed the brake is to find a way to hold the brake pedal down overnight. That will get the air out the same way it got in.  Some bikes get air in the lines often, especially when not ridden much. It will seem like a new brake when you get the air out of the lines. Make sure your brake fluid level is okay too.


-Don-  Reno, NV

[Specter]

That's not necessarily true, the air bubbles getting in can migrate past where they got in at, they will try to float to the top being lighter than brake fluid.  ideally your system is tight and there should be no leaks in it.  All that will do is show you if you got any leaks by keeping it pressurized and pissing the fluid out to help you spot the leak.

in your case, the reason you may have air is because you / your mechanic broke the system open to repair parts.  once he put everything together it should be very tight.  He is correct though that if you do have air, getting rid of it your brakes will work tons better.

Aaron

[jotjotde]

When the bike was new I had the same feeling of weak braking performance with the original pads. I think those were organic, but now with the Brembo sinter pads braking is OK for me.
I am on my fourth pair of pads now - with my current riding style they last approx. 20.000 km.

Maybe try another manufacturer? Forum member Most recommended EBC pads to me recently.

When changing pads, be prepared for some struggle to press the wire spring thingy back underneath the pin. As Don mentioned in one of his above posts, it's not easy - I used a large washer to press it down before reinserting the pin. Another tip from me is to use a new pin because the old one is of normal steel only and corrodes easily. That pin plus the spring are sold as spare parts for approx. 20 Euros.

BTW the original disc has still more than 4,7 mm thickness after 85.000 km. Obviously the rear disc is not of the same shitty OEM 'quality'.

[chisquare]

Thanks for the excellent information. I’ll first try bleeding the brake, and if there’s no improvement, I’ll switch to EBC sintered metal pads.