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[EVriderDK]

Check wiring, wiggle everything make sure it's tight, especially if it's only happening when you hit a bump.  That sounds like something loose getting jarred to disconnect.  Don't think it'd be on the MB as those are potted in that arent they?

FWIW, no, it's a LOT more than just 330 in 12 out, there are a lot of safety items in there as well.  What happens when something decides to btfu, now that 300 volts is on your chassis?  yah that....  what happens when you get water in one of your lights and it shorts out, are you going to lose your entire 12 volt bus and the cpu because of a light socket?  no, better isolate that... those type of things...given the 12 volt can power a LOT of shit, ie the handwarmers etc it can take several amps, not just flea power for the cpu, using a battery may not last long at all.  The lights are 12 volt as well, so there's more amps.  You'd need at least a 30 amp hour battery to provide for a one charge trip, that's a lot of extra weight.

This is the first I heard of the power supplies being an issue, can you link where you seen that, Id like to learn more about it.

Aaron

It doesn't happen only when hitting Bumps. It also happens when I am just riding. It just happened a lot of times right when hitting a bump.

I 300V gets to the chassis? I am not sure actually. I am not sure anything will happen. The 300V system might be floating.
Regarding the lights an so on, there are fuses, so that should not be a problem.
But your theory about something that is just waiting to come off completely is plausible. I Kinda hope that is does, because then I might be able to see exactly where the problem is. Whatever it might be, the chance of a short or something else is super low.

I do not have any information, because it seems like my bike is the only one with this problem.

[Specter]

you said they re landed a grounding spot to somewhere different?
just because you brought it to a shop does not mean they know what they are doing,  I unfortunately learned that with my bike the first time I took it to the Orlando shop, they were complete fucking idiots, and a sleazebag owner.  They are under new ownership now so don't know how they are now but anyways...  Check where they landed it at, make sure it's tight and it was a clean land, ie no paint or rust on it and that whatever is holding it down is flush and not like a screw into a piece of tubing, with an O ring connector half bent across it.

You say it happens other times but more often during bumps... that really is screaming that something is loose somewhere.  so again check all the connections make sure they are tight.  If you can, put the bike on chocks, put it in GO mode and wiggle shit around, rap on the power supply, wiggle stuff around, see if you can cause it to go out again, giving you a better idea of WHERE the problem might be hiding.  It's worth a try.

Aaron

[EVriderDK]

you said they re landed a grounding spot to somewhere different?
just because you brought it to a shop does not mean they know what they are doing,  I unfortunately learned that with my bike the first time I took it to the Orlando shop, they were complete fucking idiots, and a sleazebag owner.  They are under new ownership now so don't know how they are now but anyways...  Check where they landed it at, make sure it's tight and it was a clean land, ie no paint or rust on it and that whatever is holding it down is flush and not like a screw into a piece of tubing, with an O ring connector half bent across it.

You say it happens other times but more often during bumps... that really is screaming that something is loose somewhere.  so again check all the connections make sure they are tight.  If you can, put the bike on chocks, put it in GO mode and wiggle shit around, rap on the power supply, wiggle stuff around, see if you can cause it to go out again, giving you a better idea of WHERE the problem might be hiding.  It's worth a try.

Aaron

Only thing I didn't try is maybe banging on the PSU cover with a rubber hammer or something. That would be an interesting test.

[EVriderDK]

Tried banging on the PSU cover. Nothing happens.

I think, that if it was a loose connection, the behavior would be more crazy and it would happen kinda every time I hit a bump. But it does not.

[NEW2elec]

Going off and on is how they die on the Zeros.
At first it's just a sec or two then 30-60 then it only comes back for a short time then just dies.
This happened over about a week and a half on the Zero.

[EVriderDK]

Going off and on is how they die on the Zeros.
At first it's just a sec or two then 30-60 then it only comes back for a short time then just dies.
This happened over about a week and a half on the Zero.

Thank you so much for this info! Got any information about whether it is repairable? Could easily replace components like capacitors.

[NEW2elec]

The Zeros use a Sevcon unit but it's for the 120 volt to 12 volt setup Zero uses.  You just unlock the wire connections and hook them back up to the new unit, plug and play style on the Zeros.

I have not seen what Energica used but they run at over 300V so the Zeros Sevcon won't work.
I just wanted to let you know that slow on off death is how they died on both of my Zeros.
Replaced them and worked fine for years.

[NEW2elec]

https://eveurope.eu/en/product-category/ev-parts/dc-converters-en/450-watt-dc-dc-converters-en-2/

These guys might be able to help you if you can give them the type and voltage limits Energica uses.

[Specter]

Those only go up to 160 volts.  the Energica will hit over 340 volts so I don't think they'd be able to cut it.

aaron

[EVriderDK]

UPDATE: The PSU on my bike indeed of the new type, and it makes it difficult to go in an measure the 12V output, because it has plugs that I cannot reach. If I could just measure it, I could limit my investigation quite a bit. I can't see anything wrong, and I tried wiggling it etc. but nothing happens. I tried wiggling all plugs and wires on the bike. Last thing to checks is inside of the bellypan I guess Kind of a large operation.
Video: https://youtu.be/l9SFY4AjxsA?si=iaxN-QJimHVAhKzE

[Demoni]

I can't go into to details about technical information for the time being. For now I can say have patience, when I can provide suggestions I will.

Please be super careful working around the PSU as it takes the HV+ and HV- power and steps it down to 12V. You can be shocked if you touch the circuit board in the wrong place.
There is no point in removing the bottom cover of the battery. The 12V signal from the PSU goes directly to the 4 pin molex connector at the top of the battery. From there it splits and goes to the fuse block and the VCU.

[Pard]

I can't go into to details about technical information for the time being. For now I can say have patience, when I can provide suggestions I will.

Please be super careful working around the PSU as it takes the HV+ and HV- power and steps it down to 12V. You can be shocked if you touch the circuit board in the wrong place.
There is no point in removing the bottom cover of the battery. The 12V signal from the PSU goes directly to the 4 pin molex connector at the top of the battery. From there it splits and goes to the fuse block and the VCU.

Appreciate that very much.  No doubt, a pretty stressful period in the lives of all the Energica USA team.

[ElectricRebel]

Check wiring, wiggle everything make sure it's tight, especially if it's only happening when you hit a bump.  That sounds like something loose getting jarred to disconnect.  Don't think it'd be on the MB as those are potted in that arent they?

FWIW, no, it's a LOT more than just 330 in 12 out, there are a lot of safety items in there as well.  What happens when something decides to btfu, now that 300 volts is on your chassis?  yah that....  what happens when you get water in one of your lights and it shorts out, are you going to lose your entire 12 volt bus and the cpu because of a light socket?  no, better isolate that... those type of things...given the 12 volt can power a LOT of shit, ie the handwarmers etc it can take several amps, not just flea power for the cpu, using a battery may not last long at all.  The lights are 12 volt as well, so there's more amps.  You'd need at least a 30 amp hour battery to provide for a one charge trip, that's a lot of extra weight.

This is the first I heard of the power supplies being an issue, can you link where you seen that, Id like to learn more about it.

Aaron

When there's a fault that 330 Volts are on chassis you would get an "isolation resistance" fault. The BMS has to measure this. The PSUs do fail occasionally, but if they do the bike is dead.

[EVriderDK]

It took me 2 minutes to disconnect the PSU to upgrade it to "Version 9B" as per a recommendation that I got, but it did not fix my issue, unfortunately.
Next step is to measure the different 12V outputs to see if they really die from the PSU itself, or if it is something further up the system. Then I will need to measure the input signal, to makes sure that nothing is actually switching off the PSU. - I just don't know yet, which of those 5 input wires do what, so I will have to figure that out.

If the 12V output that is Always-on also dies, then it could only be the PSU itself doing some crazy stuff, or the actual 300V connection, which I really doubt.

There are also 4 LEDs on the board, but I do not know what they mean.

From the fault log I get:

PSU OUTPUT TOO LOW
SAFETY ERROR, INTERNAL CONTROL MODULE MEMORY CHECK
CM-VEHICLE COMMUNICATION ERROR
ABSTIMEOUT COMMUNICATION ERROR
SAFETY ERROR, INTERNAL CONTROL MODULE MEMORY CHECK

All at the same time when the power outage occurs. No BMS communication error, which could mean that the BMS is still powered up and it is only the switched 12V output that is experiencing problems.

[EVriderDK]

I can't go into to details about technical information for the time being. For now I can say have patience, when I can provide suggestions I will.

Please be super careful working around the PSU as it takes the HV+ and HV- power and steps it down to 12V. You can be shocked if you touch the circuit board in the wrong place.
There is no point in removing the bottom cover of the battery. The 12V signal from the PSU goes directly to the 4 pin molex connector at the top of the battery. From there it splits and goes to the fuse block and the VCU.

It is the last thing I will do, and right now I do not expect it to be some random lose connection.
When I am fiddling with the PSU I wear those electrical gloves and isolate the bike from the ground too. I should not get hurt. But yes, it is super dangerous.
Removing the bellypan without disconnection the busbar would be super sketchy. I would disconnect the busbar first.