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[Motoproponent]

Thanks @smithy.

I'll try that on the next sprocket chain change.

[rfpardal]

Found some time and changed the chain.

WOW.

What a difference in noise level! Even when the stock chain was new which happens with new bikes , it was not THAT low. And those of you who ever changed a chain might also have noticed a lower noise.
I have the habit of thoroughly cleaning the chain after ca. 800-1.500km, depending on the road conditions and how dirty it looks. I do apply chain lube regularly, so I can say it does not lack any maintenance. I also realized after some 8.000kms that the chain had slight tendencies to become unevenly long - this also has added to the noise recently. Furthermore, also the larger sprocket 16T vs. the stock 15T will add to a low noise. Certainly not too much, but it definitely does.

Well guys, in case you consider a new chain - do it sooner than later! You will hear the difference!

Thanks for the feedback, I'll order mine now. Can you tell me which front sprocket(brand/model) you used?

[most]

Sure!
This one, rather randomly on eBay: https://ebay.us/m/KvyOeM

I was simply following the tips that were posted earlier in this thread:
DID ZVMX 520, 120links
Front sprocket:
   15T => 16T 520 Aprilia Tuono
   PBR 2078 or AFAM 61801 or JT Sprockets JTF704
   Tool for ringnut SKF KM5
Rear Sprocket:
   52T             520 Vortex Alu Rear Sprocket
   AFAM 92630


Good hunt!

[smithy]

Sure!
This one, rather randomly on eBay: https://ebay.us/m/KvyOeM

I was simply following the tips that were posted earlier in this thread:
DID ZVMX 520, 120links
Front sprocket:
   15T => 16T 520 Aprilia Tuono
   PBR 2078 or AFAM 61801 or JT Sprockets JTF704
   Tool for ringnut SKF KM5
Rear Sprocket:
   52T             520 Vortex Alu Rear Sprocket
   AFAM 92630


Good hunt!

The rear sprocket from Vortex is an 840A-52.   https://brocksperformance.com/vortex-840-rear-sprocket-for-bst-wheels-52t-black-silver-525-chain/

I don't bother with the silly slotted nut anymore, I just use a proper hex nut now, no need for the silly tool, just a normal 32mm socket, so much easier. Why Energica felt the need to use a slotted nut is beyond me.

Smithy.

[Pard]

Sure!
This one, rather randomly on eBay: https://ebay.us/m/KvyOeM

I was simply following the tips that were posted earlier in this thread:
DID ZVMX 520, 120links
Front sprocket:
   15T => 16T 520 Aprilia Tuono
   PBR 2078 or AFAM 61801 or JT Sprockets JTF704
   Tool for ringnut SKF KM5
Rear Sprocket:
   52T             520 Vortex Alu Rear Sprocket
   AFAM 92630


Good hunt!

I don't bother with the silly castleated nut anymore, I just use a proper hex nut now, no need for the silly tool, just a normal 32mm socket.

Smithy.

Brilliant!

What are the exact specs of that nut.  Is it the same as the Rebelle?

I will pick one up for sure!

[smithy]

I don't bother with the silly castleated nut anymore, I just use a proper hex nut now, no need for the silly tool, just a normal 32mm socket.

Smithy.

Brilliant!

What are the exact specs of that nut.  Is it the same as the Rebelle?

I will pick one up for sure!
[/quote]

I think you'll find the rear axle nut on your Ribelle may be the same thread...try it first... The Experia rear axle nut fits....25 x 1.5mm thread. I just bought a few nuts with the correct thread off fleabay.

Smithy.

[Pard]

I don't bother with the silly castleated nut anymore, I just use a proper hex nut now, no need for the silly tool, just a normal 32mm socket.

Smithy.

Brilliant!

What are the exact specs of that nut.  Is it the same as the Rebelle?

I will pick one up for sure!

I think you'll find the rear axle nut on your Ribelle may be the same thread...try it first... The Experia rear axle nut fits....25 x 1.5mm thread. I just bought a few nuts with the correct thread off fleabay.

Smithy.
[/quote]

Awesome.  Thanks!

[Specter]

a regular nut works fine, castellated / cotter keyed is more work that is not needed.  Make sure you have a good washer / crush ring whatever you want to call it behind it to help keep it snug.

Also, as a general info item, you should give them a quick look every time you get on the bike, make sure it looks ok, isn't backing out or other oddities. 

Aaron

[smithy]

a regular nut works fine, castellated / cotter keyed is more work that is not needed.  Make sure you have a good washer / crush ring whatever you want to call it behind it to help keep it snug.

Also, as a general info item, you should give them a quick look every time you get on the bike, make sure it looks ok, isn't backing out or other oddities. 

Aaron

A bit difficult to do every time you get on the bike....it's behind the sprocket cover...who's going to take that off every time they go for a ride...?? Not many...I suspect.

Smithy.

[Specter]

my bad smithy i was thinking about the rear nut.  The front one, correct me if I am wrong but isn't it in a manner that the motor spinning would actually tighten it?  if that's the case then do you really need a castle nut?

aaron

[smithy]

my bad smithy i was thinking about the rear nut.  The front one, correct me if I am wrong but isn't it in a manner that the motor spinning would actually tighten it?  if that's the case then do you really need a castle nut?

aaron

All good...and correct, the normal rotation of the front sprocket would tend to tighten the nut....they're done up to a silly torque anyway, 190nm, so it's not coming undone in a hurry. The rear axle nut is only 70nm.

The exact same slotted nut is also used on the motor rotor gear inside the gear case...but the motor rotor in the Experia spins backwards so that would tend to try and undo itself... so a positive way of locking that nut would probably be a better choice. I don't know the correct torque for this slotted nut as the Experia service manual doesn't mention anything "inside" the motor at all....it only tells you how to remove the complete motor. One would assume it would be similar to the front sprocket nut since they're identical with an identical shaft thread etc. There's no positive way to hold the rotor whilst doing up the nut on the rotor gear so all I could do was hit it with my rattle gun until the original alignment marks lined up...then lock it in place with the tab washer.

Smithy.

[Motoproponent]

....they're done up to a silly torque anyway, 190nm, so it's not coming undone in a hurry. The rear axle nut is only 70nm.

Smithy.

How do you hold the driveline to apply that kind of torque? I could not get the rear brake to hold it. I ended up just putting it on with an impact wrench and hoping the bent washer would keep it from backing off.

[jotjotde]

Guys, I never would fiddle with something so important like the front sprocket nut.

The 190 Nm tightening might seem excessive to you, but don't forget that the bike can produce well over 200 Nm of torque and under recuperation the force will work to undo the nut!
Some time ago, when I cleaned the front sprocket cover I saw that the nut had wiggled itself out of the safety washer. Obviously I hadn't installed it correctly.
So please, stay safe and don't mess with that!

BTW, what you can see on the pic is a rubberised sprocket which might lessen the noise coming from there. It's from Esjot, but I think you can get something similar from JT as well.

[Pard]

....they're done up to a silly torque anyway, 190nm, so it's not coming undone in a hurry. The rear axle nut is only 70nm.

Smithy.

How do you hold the driveline to apply that kind of torque? I could not get the rear brake to hold it. I ended up just putting it on with an impact wrench and hoping the bent washer would keep it from backing off.

With the weight of the bike on the rear tire and rear brake fully applied (chain in place ) you should be able to lock it up enough to get the required torque value.  The impact gun idea might work if you know what the final toque value turns out to be.  If it is 25% less than spec, it might not be good enough.

[Motoproponent]

Yep the brake didn't hold it. Even with a 200 pound rider sitting on the bike holding the rear brake.

It's kind of a moot point any way since my torque wrench only goes up to 120 lb/ft.

Next time I think I'm going to back the bike up against the wall to hold it. But hopefully that will be 20,000 more miles from now.