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you sound like a tldr type so, since it exceeds the nominal length of your standard tictard video.... no

aaron

that sounds about right there.,  most of the high current is the acceleration to get to speed, once you get there it pretty much sips and bounces back and forth really.  i wouldn't worry about the occasional heavy draw from romping it, as its only in that state for what 25 to 30 seconds, not enough to really steam the battery up,  the only time you would really need to be concerned is if you are doing a lot of throttle movement, even at lower speeds, or stop and go, as that is constant heavy in/out in/out.   Of course if you were running 90 mph then yah, might want to watch the current there too.


2500ma is it a standard capacity/use cell or a high drain.  being its older thats sounding llike a run of the mill cell there.  do you remember what you salvaged them from?  even the lighter use cells are good for 3 to 5 c, with some of the heavier duty cells able to take 20 c or more.


also what gauge wire did you use to hook it to the main pack with, just curious.  id not use less than 6 ga tbh.  fuse it at 50-60 amps and you should be good, this should also take an extended hard regen back into them as well.  make sure you use a dc rated fuse too, in case something does go bad, a wire pinches and shorts etc, the fuse can safely quench that arc when it lets loose.

sounds like you did a really good job here on this.  i love hearing people putting new gadgetry together, especially when they are repurposing old batteries etc,  good job there!

aaron

“ bike only sees the current flowing from the main pack”

How/where is the extender connected?

How many parallel cell arrays there?
Earlier I had guessed 4 but relooking the math it seems like 6@28 cells.
If so, what is each cell capable of flowing (both in & out)?
35 amps divided by 6 is 5.83 amps which seems pretty high for a single 18650 cell.
Granted in normal use is only for a short time.
Figure out what a single cell is capable of in/out put & multiply by 6.
Use that figure as the max fuse ampacity & maybe de-rate that a bit for safety & use a time-delay fuse to allow for brief accelerations. 

Good to hear it's working. Intermittent problems are the worst! Make sure your towing insurance is paid up, ha ha!

is there any way to just leave it on permanent, or would you not want to do that?  looking at age .vs. cycles etc, its best if you can keep everything about evenly aged / used.

oh i totally get the ..even 10 miles helps.  when i goto the track with my tesla, its like ok i drove a little fast going there, can i make it home w/o having to charge, do i need to slow down or turn the ac down to make it w/o having a recharge session. it always seems your trips end up at the extreme ends of a batteries charge for some reason !  then again if i am not towing or know ill have a charger available where i am going ill run bitcoin miners in the thing while im driving.  helps heat in the winter hehe.

aaron

I will only use it for longer trips because it ads weight up high and takes up the handy storage space. The cells in the extender are old but have not been used very much and I'm sure they have more resistance but that doesn't seem to have any ill effect. They test to 2500mah each which is the nominal capacity when new. I did a 100 mile ride with the extender installed, mostly rural highways but some freeway and the extender pack was only a few degrees above ambient temp. With old lithium cells I watch the cell temps. If the cells stay cool everything is good. I had an ammeter connected between the packs so I could watch the current flow. In sport mode with WOT accelerating from 20 to 60 mph the current draw was around 35 amps. In standard mode under the same condition it was like 18 amps. I never use sport mode. At a steady 60 mph the current was only about 6 amps so the main pack is just sipping a little current from the extender. One interesting thing is that the average watts per mile shows lower than usual because the bike only sees the current flowing from the main pack and is comparing it to the miles traveled so the range estimate goes up accordingly. That all works perfectly. I you used higher capacity cells you could fit 2KWH in this space.

You have suggested a video where after 4 minutes they start putting in background sounds.  Is it worth it to go on in mute with closed captions?

is there any way to just leave it on permanent, or would you not want to do that?  looking at age .vs. cycles etc, its best if you can keep everything about evenly aged / used.

oh i totally get the ..even 10 miles helps.  when i goto the track with my tesla, its like ok i drove a little fast going there, can i make it home w/o having to charge, do i need to slow down or turn the ac down to make it w/o having a recharge session. it always seems your trips end up at the extreme ends of a batteries charge for some reason !  then again if i am not towing or know ill have a charger available where i am going ill run bitcoin miners in the thing while im driving.  helps heat in the winter hehe.

aaron

so you got your hands on a battery, how fucking hard is it to cut the damned thing open and shoot it with an xrf and say ok these are the elements in it?  even if you dont want to cut it open you hit it hard enough with the energy itll still show you, just wont be accurate with the quantities of it.

so more lies and vaorware, gee color me surprised.

speaking of bullshit promises.   where are energica's promised bikes???

aaron

Let's see their response to this.

Maybe it's a little too late but here is a trouble shooting suggestion. The unofficial Zero manual has a description for building an adapter to read information through the OBD port. It's for Gen 2 bikes but works on Gen 3 also. I think I had to switch the TX and RX wires and use a different Baud rate but after some messing around I got it to work on a laptop. When you key on the bike you can see all the start commands as it is happening. You can see all the commands just like you see in the logs, the same when you plug into charge. Pretty useful for trouble shooting. If you type in "help", you bring up a menu of all the info you can get. It's fun even if you don't need it. There are posts about it from a long time ago. Here is an example. This is "BMS interface" screen. You can see things like charge targets, lowest cell voltage, how many amps the headlights are drawing, pack capacity.

Thanks, that could be handy.


But so far, I have not had a trace of the no charge problem since the time I charged it up to 110% SOC and then rode it. I put on around 200 miles on it since then and charged it up a few times. But I am curious what caused it and if it will happen again. Perhaps I should have your suggestion handy just in case it does happen again.


-Don-  Auburn, CA