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Does the DC2DC maintain the 12V battery? Because it is well charged and never low

Can we see the voltage that the DC2DC supplies in the logs?

I see this information about controller (OBD2)

* * * CONTROLLER * * *
 Motor RPM:       0 rpm
 Motor Temperature:    11 C
 DC Bus Voltage:    101100 mV
 Fault Code:       0 level- 0
 Last time Temp PDO    979 s, 950000 us

DC Bus Voltage 101100 mV mean around 10V I think? it is good? maybe not, lower than 12v.


I found the old seem information about my controller in year 2024

* * * CONTROLLER * * *
 Motor RPM:       0 rpm
 Motor Temperature:    10 C
 DC Bus Voltage:    109600 mV
 Fault Code:       200 level- 4
 Last time Temp PDO    165 s, 430000 us

At that time I never had controller problems like I do today.

Hi folks,

Yesterday, I got this error on my bike’s dash while riding: Controller fault (error 9) three times in two days.
The bike suddenly stopped running.I turned the key off and back on, and the bike started working again.
I checked the log and saw Controller Fault 1. Does anyone know what Fault 1 means?

I also frequently see this message in the log: Controller warning 26. Weird.

SRS 2020 45k (new battery BCB and power tank)

Maybe not so weird. Isn't error 26 mean low voltage from the DC2DCC? That voltage being low can screw up all types of things and cause more errors.


IOW, be sure to check the 12V stuff for being low.



-Don-  Auburn, CA

Hi folks,

Yesterday, I got this error on my bike’s dash while riding: Controller fault (error 9) three times in two days.
The bike suddenly stopped running.I turned the key off and back on, and the bike started working again.
I checked the log and saw Controller Fault 1. Does anyone know what Fault 1 means?

I also frequently see this message in the log: Controller warning 26. Weird.

SRS 2020 45k (new battery BCB and power tank)

in theory, a battery charger should work on it's own, it looks at the battery, talks, then puts the power to it.
if the battery is too low to talk it wont charge.  or another way to look at it.  these chargers work from umm i want to say like 97 volts up to like 255 or something like that.(dont quote me but i think they'll reject the 277 wildleg input, which sucks).  meaning the lowest they can charge is.. well, in theory  97 volts.  they can boost voltage to match the pack but won't buck it. so if your pack is sitting a 5 volts, or 50 volts, its literally too low for them to do.

this wont work here, and it's a real shitty way to revive a dead pack but, can give you an idea...i have a 40kwhr pack that is 4x12 volt cells in series.,  the reason i got them is, they wired them wrong and the heaters are on the battery side of the bms, meaning when it gets cold out, they turn on the heaters, but if the battery volts drop to cutout, don't care, the bitch stays on until they are at zero volts..  anyways.  my 48 charger won't revive a battery, that is a well...non existent thing in lithium world. or supposed to be.  my 12 volt on the other hand, has a recover mode that will put power into anything, but do so current limited.   i hook it to one of the 12 volt batteries and fire it off,  it brings that one battery up and then, the balancer that is also on it, feeds that to the rest of the batteries in the system to bring them up as well.  it hops that 12 volts to each battery..which eventually restores the 48volt system to a voltage that allows me to then put the real charger back on it.

i have used something similar on other packs before,  charge up one leg,  wires and alligator clips work wonders, or pads with neodynium magnets on them, that way you can reach into a pack and clip the power where you need it, on the nickel bus.  charge a P arm and the bms will route it to the others if its a passive, then eventually wake up to charge the battery normally, or if no wake up, its a few days but spihon charge the thing up.  (note this wont work on the energica, it uses a stupid system to balance its batteries which is even fucking worse for the race bikes) but you could charge each arm or segment, individually until you hit them all... in an absolute worse case.

aaron

cough cough.... do at your own risk.

And then there is the "semi-solid state" lithium battery. 

Some insights:
If the battery pack is near or equal zero, the BMS is down (hopefully not bricked - who could help, if this is the case?)
Feeding 12V from external source (e. g. to F1 pin at charger manager plug) seems not to be sufficient to boot - battery needs to be connected.
Boot did always abort after about 2 seconds. I did a reset after a boot try, while red imobilizer LED was flashing. Maybe this did help or the battery reconnect - the bike now booted one time (all battery plugs connected) and engineering screen was available (see above).
Thank you Aaron and Chris - my battery has to be opened to check cell voltages and to decide further processing.
I'll keep you updated.

113F is not very hot at all.
what happens when the thing is sitting in a parking lot in florida, its black asphalt, its 3pm and the surface temp is 140 degrees on a sunny day with little wind and everything is sweltering.   its going to need to use power, in park, just to keep cool to operate.  now lets add a load to it, the radiant heat alone is going to kill it.

this is not going to be ready for mainstream.   and even that w/hr kg is not all that super.  some of the upper end lith cells can hit this benchmark.  what is solid state, they added a cap to it?     again, people love throwing the word solid state around yet there is no real hard line definition for it.    when you can show me an iso definition of what makes solid state then we'll be getting somewhere but until then, its a buzzword that people love to throw around that means, well, whatever they want it to.

Massachusetts-based startup Factorial Energy

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I rode 100 miles today and the only thing that was warm at all was the contactor coil.

First off, congrats on your achievement of extending your range!!

You could eliminate the extenders contactor & instead just use a switch (just make sure it’s rated for the load & voltage @ DC).

Just a thought… maybe use a high temp wire as a resistive conductor & parallel, the existing 4’ cable? (The small gauge & long length adds resistance).
As suggested before, this would be the #1 on a rotary/cam switch (OFF-#1-#2)   
A small gauge high temp wire sized correctly could offer battery balance.
You could experiment with very light gage standard copper wire until the wire doesn’t vaporize @ the greatest Delta V (incrementally increase wire size until you find a sweet spot/size).
Or as suggested before, use an incandescent light bulb (MR-16?) as the resister.

The main thing is you produced a functional device that you can tweak out the fine details. 

"This Dodge Charger EV Prototype Packs An Experimental Semi-Solid-State Battery"

See Here.