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Electric Motorcycle Forum is live!
You know that a standard nut has a bit of free play on the bolt when it is not fastened. Better is to counter-fix to nuts against each other on a bolt, then insert that bolt and check again. It might give a total different impression. But anyway this method is not very reliable and professional. Best is to get it 3D measured. Any lab could also check the if all landing surfaces are on an identical plane. But this will cost quite some money and the result might drive you crazy. I would trust that when those surfaces have been created the method is fail proof - which I believe it is at Marchesini (manufacturer of our rims).
On the subject of PSU repairs, EEMC has been working with a Dutch company to repair bricked ones in the absence of official support and sent me an email today informing me that they've finally cracked it and are sending all the units they have in off for repair.
Had a chat with EEMC today to see if they could give me an update. They'd sent another customer's PSU (actually I got the impression it was just a control board from the PSU) off for repair at a third party shop and if it worked they'd be doing the same for mine. The repaired PSU for the other customer wasn't right so it's gone back for remediation but they're still hopeful it'll work out.
Company named Alwin Otten in Meppen (Germany) is currently selling a '20 or '21 Ribelle (no EMCE motor) with less than 7k km on the clock for 9k EUR incl. tax.It is very important that it is 22 model
As far as I know that is currently the cheapest Energica for sale here.
Would have bought it myself as parts donor, but the electric specs with my '22 do not align.
If you buy it, I would be interested in getting the side fairings - just message me.
Too bad though.The communication wire is low voltage, meaning the connection has to be pretty darned good, the slightest 'light touch' or dirt or looseness and it won't talk right, either the voltage just won't get thru so it don't talk, or it could be noisy, corrupting the data flow so the communication is in error, causing errors.I would forget all about communication and pins not reaching. This is not the issue. The issue is that the locking pin can't get through, probably because of cable pressure. Check what ElectricRebel is writing.
By re aligning everything you are making sure everything is working AS DESIGNED to work, in other words, making sure that the pins ARE aligned correctly so they Do fit in each other properly, there IS a good connection so that the voltage gets thru and it DOES talk back and forth properly.
Because of the voltages involved in the high side, (up to a kilovolt) these fittings also must be very TIGHT, so there is no leakage or creepage of this voltage where you do not want it to be. That means seals must be pressed tightly on each other. If the plug is not seated exactly how it is supposed to be, the switch won't be made, saying essentially, YEP, im in good and tight, and it won't start. This means that you literally do not have much wiggle room at all on these things, they need to be plugged in pretty exact.
Now lets take a charger that is designed for 300 amps or so, it's running probably 2 conductors of 3/0-4/0 cable and probably a #2 or bigger ground return, the thick insulation around them because of the voltage, AND extra cables for communications, which might be shielded with a wire mesh to keep noise out of them. This stuff is HEAVY, it can be a few pounds per foot. So you have a 5 foot loop of cable hanging off the top of your seat, arching down towards the ground, dropping 3 to 4 feet before finally actually TOUCHING the ground, where finally, there is a stress relief, because all that weight (10 to 15 lbs 4-5kg is being supported by the plug only) is just hanging there. It's pulling sideways on the plug, which is held in place by what?? that little clip and a little slidey poo thing to lock it? Any twisting that makes an edge of that plug lift off the seat, and viola, you are no longer sealed, the switch is opened and the charge won't start.
Re drilling the holes, you are aligning the thing better, so the force is not as bad trying to unseat the plug, and it's got a better chance of staying pluggin in all the say and charging.
Those other chargers that don't work, do me a favor if you can please. Next time you go there, try draping the charging cable over your handle bar, so the handle is supporting the cable's weight, so it's more across the handle bar, and running up the cable instead of just the cable plugged in and all that weight just dragging and bending it to the ground. When plugging the cable in try to hold it up over the hole, hold the actual cable about 8 inches to a foot from the plug while you plug it straight down into the plug, keeping any side or twisting motion off it, (sometimes ill drape the cable over my shoulder for the plug in to support it during the initial plug in) once it's plugged in, give it that quick wiggle to hear the clickclick so you know it's seated and the switches made, and then gently drape the cable so it's being supported more laterally across the handle bar. See if this might help actually start your charging session because the plug is aligned properly, and talking now.
At the track, especially when it's cold out and the cable is stiff as shit, (racing when it's 28 degrees out is NOT fun on a few levels !!) ill have to try sometimes 3 or 4 times to get it to finally engage properly and start, and it's all because it's NOT fully seated FLUSH face to face on the plug face.
ANY thing you can do to align the plug better, and take the strain of the cable weight OFF the plug head and charge port will make charging a lot easier and a lot more probability to not give you an error when starting the charge.
In a perfect workd, Energica gets bought by a competent owner, and in the future we see some sort of software upgrade where on the dash, a little light or icon or something lights up to tell you YES or NO if that stupid switch is made or not so you can tell if it's seated good or not.
Aaron
