ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Energica => Topic started by: beatmaster on May 17, 2026, 05:42:00 AM
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My 2021 EGO was in LPR mode for several months - with red blinking LED in display and when powering from time to time, display did indicating 80% SOC...
Now LED is dark and I can't wake the bike by pressing the start button (keyless ride).
Does the BMS has a deep sleep mode? How can I reanimate it to initiate AC charging?
Or might the DC/DC converter cause the problem, as I saw in another thread?
Any advice is appreciated, thanks
Achim
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Can you check for voltage in/out on the DC/DC module?
That would at least rule it in or out as the cause.
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so have you tried to initiate a ac charge on it at all, if so what did it do, any clicking etc, or lights?
if it is totally dead, one thing you can try, which may or may not work, jack up the rear wheel on a stand, spin it by hand with the bike on as fast as you can. The idea here, which i have seen work on several other e-devices is, the motor will produce a little electric by the very nature of it, and that will basically be seen / felt on the dmz of the bms, which *might* turn it back on, or get its attention etc.
Have no clue if this will work this way on the energica never tried it, but have had it work on lawn mowers, tractors and some other electric devices, including e bikes.
it couldn't hurt if the thing is dead, you got nothing to lose trying.
aaron
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@Specter: No clicking or similar when AC plugging - Wall box is "waiting for vehicle". I will try "rear wheel spinning"...
@ESokoloff: Where can I check 12 V supply - is a maintenance manual available or any other description?
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If this….
https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=13725.0
is the “other thread” you reffed to, then use it as a guide.
Hopefully your bike has the same DC/DC unit. If not you’ll have to do some research or wait for more input from those here that can guild you.
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have you tried using a key on it, hold it on the fairing on the left side kind of by your knee is where the sensor is, see if thatll wake it up., sometimes that little logo thing, its in that area where the sensor is. still though, it should charge keyed on or not youd think. or at least acknowledge seeing it in there. dont quote me but i think i remember something like this before and a 315 ma fuse or something.
you had it in lpr was it plugged in while in lpr or just standing w/o any power hooked up?
aaron
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Key with new 2032 battery was placed direct at receiver. But actually all systems are down - no reaction to start button.
Unfortunately the bike was unplugged for several months (SoC was always "80%", when I checked...)
So, BMS should now be in cell protection mode and has deactivated uncharging.
It should be not too complicated to power the control board from outside - if you know, how?
I spoke to the dealer's technician - without Energica's online system they even can't get any access to maintenance manuals or tools... :-(
Does anybody have access to downloaded manuals?
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Try asking at Energica Owners Motorcycles Group on Facebook
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maybe get a 12v battery like one of those little bricks out of alarm systems the 12v 5ah. find a 12 volt item somewhere, and backfeed it.
id recommend directly into the board, as trying to backfeed a light or something that actually runs thru the board may not work. find the 12 volt feed wire to the distro box for the 12v and hook it there.
chris paz should be able to help maybe, give you the wire location ./numbers to feed the battery up thru to maybe jumpstart it. i am not sure this is even possible, i have never done it to my bike, but it seems a logical way to get 12v to the stuff that needs it if the battery is shut off.
the only other issue is, ok so you power up the control board, BUT if the bms is in hibernate mode, will that wake it back up?? the bms gets its power from the battery, will the outside source wake it, especially considering the batt voltage vs the 12 you want to inject.
hopefully chris can chime in as im genuinely curious now how to fix this. my ego is going to be down a while and if i run into something like this itd be nice to know how to wake her back up.
aaron
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Hey sorry for the delay have not had a chance to check the forum in the last few days.
There are 2 potential causes for the red led on the dash (part of the always on 9v circuit) to not blink.
#1 the glass fuse has blown. This fuse is located in a separate holder near the main fuse box. It's located in a small black plastic holder that twists apart to access the 5x20mm 315mA glass fuse.
Remove the fuse and confirm continuity with a multimeter. If the fuse was tripped replacing it should restore 9V power and the bike should turn on.
If the fuse tests good the next possibility is the PSU is no longer supplying power. The PSU is a DC/DC unit that provides the bike a low current 9V supply and a high current 12V supply. The 9V provides constant power to the bikes vehicle control unit VCU and ignition, this circuit turns on the 12V circuit that runs the lights and other higher power systems once you turn the bike on.
To test if the 9V circuit of the PSU is working set your multimeter to VDC, negative lead should be grounded (inverter case or other bare metal). Probe both sides of the glass fuse holder with the positive lead. You should measure 9V on one side of the fuse holder if the PSU is outputting power. If you measure 0V on both sides either the PSU has failed or the battery has been discharged. Unless it has been 6+ months since you saw the battery SOC of 80% a discharged battery is probably not the issue.
There are some additional tests I can describe. Let us know the results of the above.
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Does the PSU deliver 12V and 9V?
I tried to supply at the PSU's red wired with 12V - that might have been a fault...?
What ist the correct process to supply 12V from outside?
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beat ideally you don't want to provide outside voltage, that also might cause some issues as well. if the battery is the problem then none of this is going to really wake it up. as chris said, it supplies both 9 and 12, and seems the 9 is like a pilot, you need it to turn on / activate the 12 to the other stuff. so it seems you need the 9 for the control unit as well, so putting 12 from outside wont help us much.
have you checked for power yet, and checked the fuse. use a decent multimeter when you check, the real cheap ones can sometimes pull enough current to pop a small fuse that rating. looking for voltage on both sides as chris mentioned is a safer way to check then continuity across it.
how long was your bike in storage mode for, and what was the average temperature during that time? just to confirm, the bike was NOT plugged into any charger at this time? The reason i ask about a charger is, if the answer is no, then showing a flat 80 all the time would be a bad reading, it should have steadily been dropping. temp swings can push it around a bit etc, so am thinking that 80 you seen might have been a sort of like, last remembered percentage and not the real percent. hopefully it didn't deplete the battery, they are a pain in the ass to revive and that chemistry does not like hard drains.
aaron
Chris: would the bms actually let it discharge the main battery all the way down like that or would it go into some sort of isolation or cutout mode?
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Chris: would the bms actually let it discharge the main battery all the way down like that or would it go into some sort of isolation or cutout mode?
Well, I'm not Chris, but:
The DC/DC units power cables are DIRECTLY bolted to the main HV- and + terminals in the bellypan before the contactors (well, there are some fuses in between , but nothing more).
So the DC/DC unit will slowly drain the battery.
The BMS doesn't communicate with the DC/DC unit, it will probably cut off the main 12V HP that powers the ignition etc when the voltage is below a certain threshold, but the 12V LP (9V) will still drain the battery until the unit has no longer any voltage to work with.
That's sad and not well engineered tbh ....
Greetings
Jonas
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ugh no thats not good at all.
i know the display loves to hold last numbers too, and putting in lpr mode may have disabled certain checks and stuff. if it was at 80 percent and never moved, and no power coming in (if that is the case) then he probably ran the battery into the basement. i see that on my bike often, ill put it to bed at the end of the day with like 84 percent charge, it cools etc overnight, turn it on and the display will show 84 percent for a second or so then suddenly jump to like 80 percent or whatever the 'new' balance of the battery is (or it thinks it is)
does anyone know what the idle, picking my ass current draw is on the bike, it has to be something, there is some computer thingy dingy watching somewhere. even if that draw is only 5 watts. that's 120 watts a day, 800 watts a week. 3.2 kw a month. after say 6 yo 7 months you are in trouble. once the batteries are drained down to zero and still have a path across them, chemical actions that are irreversable can happen and the internal resistance of the cells, can climb into the k-ohms. thats a battery killer right there, you can't push any current thru them anymore to charge it, its literally a brick now. slow waking at that point can be dangerous too, if it did dendrite and let you get to say 50 percent charge befor it let go, thats a lot of stored energy you just set loose, ie a nice fire.
keep fingers crossed it's just a fart in the phone booth somewhere and you just need to replace a fuse or something simple.
shit, worse case, i have a battery but w/o any way to program and marry it to your system... unless you swapped the board.
chris, where at in the battery is it's 'name/ser' held at?
good news if you did rebuild it, you can put a lot better cells in it.
aaron
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Does the PSU deliver 12V and 9V?
I tried to supply at the PSU's red wired with 12V - that might have been a fault...?
What ist the correct process to supply 12V from outside?
Applying 12v to random wires is not the solution.
Please read my original post that details the tests you need to perform. Based on the results I can provide additional information.
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i know the display loves to hold last numbers too, and putting in lpr mode may have disabled certain checks and stuff. if it was at 80 percent and never moved, and no power coming in (if that is the case) then he probably ran the battery into the basement. i see that on my bike often, ill put it to bed at the end of the day with like 84 percent charge, it cools etc overnight, turn it on and the display will show 84 percent for a second or so then suddenly jump to like 80 percent or whatever the 'new' balance of the battery is (or it thinks it is)
LPR mode works however it's not the set it and forget it solution. If the outlet powering the EVSE you are using to charge the bike has a power interruption the charge session will end. Unless you unplug and reconnect the charge cable a new charge session will not occur, causing the battery to discharge over time. I much prefer setting the SOC limit to 80% and charging the bike manually every 60 days.
With very old firmware the SOC shown on the dash would not always update, that was fixed some time around 2019. The pack voltage and cell voltages on the eng screen are always accurate.
does anyone know what the idle, picking my ass current draw is on the bike, it has to be something, there is some computer thingy dingy watching somewhere. even if that draw is only 5 watts. that's 120 watts a day, 800 watts a week. 3.2 kw a month. after say 6 yo 7 months you are in trouble.
I do not know the exact current draw of the PSU's 9V always on circuit. Based on the log files I have examined from bikes with discharged packs, you have about 10 months from fully charged to 0% SOC. 3300mV is the cell under voltage cutoff, below this level the bike will not accept a charge. It is possible to manually charge the battery at this point. 2500mV is the manufactures listed end of life, cells below this voltage should not be charged.
chris, where at in the battery is it's 'name/ser' held at?
Not sure what you mean when you say "name/ser"?
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@Demoni, yeah this always made sense to me.
Charge to 80% if sitting for a while and check on it a few weeks later, rather than having it cycle every day for a micro charge in LPR mode. My thought was that the on/off cycles will reduce the lifespan of the components for no real benefit if I just keep an eye on the SOC.
The FaceBook forum has endless debate about what if any balancing is done by LPR mode, but since the battery only balances at the top of the SOC, my understanding is that you gain nothing from LPR unless you cannot monitor the SOC at least very few months.
LPR of course is useless unless the bike is plugged into the charger which is plugged into a power source.
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if you had to change out a battery pack, given its married to other parts, you can't just swap battery packs and go right, you have to do some reconfiguration somewhere if i am correct. where is this identifying data stored at, so instead of having to reprogram it, just take the name tag for lack of a better term from the old battery put it in the new one, so the bike still thinks its the old one and accepts it. it'd be a lot easier than actually having to rebuild a pack if you had to i think.
aaron
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The FaceBook forum has endless debate about what if any balancing is done by LPR mode, but since the battery only balances at the top of the SOC, my understanding is that you gain nothing from LPR unless you cannot monitor the SOC at least very few months.
Honestly I do not have a full understanding of how (or if) the charge/balancing algorithm changes when a bike is put into LPR mode. It's not a feature that I have used enough to understand.
That said I suspect the same 1hr charge session interruption if there is no change in SOC % safety system would stop the balancing process during normal charging will also kick in when the bike is in LPR. Due to this even if there is some cell balancing happening in LPR it's effectiveness would be limited. Even if the cell are balanced at 80% SOC, that does not mean they will remain balanced when the battery is charged to 100%.
Again LPR mode is not a set it and forget it solution. Due to this I believe manually plugging the bike in every 2 months to charge to 80% is the better option. I had a calendar reminder set every month to remind me to charge all the bikes in our shop to 80%. Bikes were charged to 100% to ensure the packs were balanced before they were shipped to a dealership or to a customer.
if you had to change out a battery pack, given its married to other parts, you can't just swap battery packs and go right, you have to do some reconfiguration somewhere if i am correct.
The battery packs have no unique identifiers, swapping packs between bikes is plug and play. The only exception to this is the cells used in newer (2024 MY) 21.5 packs used cells that could be charged to a slightly higher voltage (4300mV vs 4200mV), this is what provided the +5% range increase. Firmware and battery parameters would need to be updated if you were to use a pre 2024 battery in a post 2024 bike or vice versa.
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The battery packs have no unique identifiers, swapping packs between bikes is plug and play. The only exception to this is the cells used in newer (2024 MY) 21.5 packs used cells that could be charged to a slightly higher voltage (4300mV vs 4200mV), this is what provided the +5% range increase. Firmware and battery parameters would need to be updated if you were to use a pre 2024 battery in a post 2024 bike or vice versa.
This sort of information is why you are so valuable Chris.
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The bike was stored inside, so temperature was between 10 and 25 °C all the time. Sometimes I checked SoC and it always was 80% as expected...
I got a hint to feed 12V to the 2x2 Molex battery connector and then measure 9 V supply at Pin8 of 16Pin Molex battery connector: 1.2 V. Also 1,2 V at the glass fuse - fuse is intact.
When powered external, bike is booting for about 2 seconds and then breaks. So I can't get in the engineering screen to check SoC/SoH.
The lock is operating, when long pressing the power button (keyless go). The key isn't the issue - without I get the "Key not in range" message.
Would it be possible to feed 9 V external (e. g. at glass fuse holder) and try get a complete boot?
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oh thats good to know on the battery pack. was under the impression it was a coded part like some of the others where you couldn't just swap out w/o changing software to let it know, this is a diff thingamajig or wobulator
aaron
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The bike was stored inside, so temperature was between 10 and 25 °C all the time. Sometimes I checked SoC and it always was 80% as expected.
Would it be possible to feed 9 V external (e. g. at glass fuse holder) and try get a complete boot?
Glad to hear the cause is not a discharged battery. With that ruled out it's almost certainly a PSU issue.
I would suggest not injecting 9V into the bike. If the circuit on the PSU that supplies 9V is damaged it may be shorted. Powering that wire could damage other electronics in the circuit.
When injecting 12v into a bike please make sure you are using a power supply that is current limited (2A). Either use a 12V wall wart supply or a variable voltage power supply.
Normally when I inject 12V into a bike I do the following:
- Remove the tank fairing to allow access to the Charge Manager CM (black box that sits on top of the motor controller / inverter.
- The connector that plugs into the CM has labels for each pin A-F and 1-3.
- Locate F1 and insert a thin probe to allow direct connection.
- Connect 12V+ to the probe and ground to the inverter, battery case or other good ground point.
Oh keyless bikes there is one additional step you need to do to keep the bike from turning off
Locate the 6 pin connector for the ignition (found under the tank fairings near the steering head).
(https://i.ibb.co/KxZBzy8G/IMG-1808.jpg) (https://ibb.co/KxZBzy8G)
Jumper the orange and purple wires together or insert thin metal probes into the connector to use a alligator clip to complete the circuit.
Bike should turn on and stay on to allow you to access the eng screen.
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@Demoni: I fed 12V to F1 position of charge manager plug and shortet orange and purple wires of 6pin ignition connector.
When powering, after 3 seconds the bike starts booting by itself, but breaks. Red LED flashes
Ignition button does not start the boot procedure (but locking/unlocking when pressing very long). When pressing for 2 seconds, the red LED flashes one time. When pressing longer, the red LED is on for two seconds.
Did I overlook something?
When I remove ignition short (orange/purple), I can start booting by pressing ignition button, but boot process breaks as before...
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I tried again without ignition short (orange/purple wires) and had various failures, but one time success and a full boot.
I was able to enter engineering screen. It seems, cells are defective - or is it a BMS module?
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its saying 0 percent state of charge, and the low voltage might be what is making everything read goofy. says a pack volts of 5.2 volts. very not good if true.
by manual the pack is dead for good if this is true, but, if you are careful you might be able to revive it, very slowly and carefully, and it might come back, and might be useable, but do know it took a major hit.
what i typically do when trying to rezz a cobalt - lipo or 'angry chem' pack as i call them, is bring it up very slowly to full charge, take a day or three, then bleed it down on a discharge to cycle it, revive it. bring it up again at 0.5 c, make sure it does so w/o problems, then back down, then bring it back up a 3rd time to it's full charge, see how much power you put into it to do that, then drain it at like 0.2 c to its cutoff point, see what real capacity it has left at that point. if the batteries seem good, then you may have saved them. what i would then do next with mine is grid tie them so i could do a regulated power draw off them, pull at 2 c, 5c and max c for likr 5 seconds, 10 seconds and 30 seconds from a full charge, 80 charge, 50 charge and 30 charge, see how badly you sag it, that'll let you know if they are still fairly strong or did you wipe them, and if you got a cell thats going to totally dump, potentially reverse, then you know you got a real fire hazard there and need to retire it.
if it was a ferro chem id say run with it, but cobalt, and the lipo types, umm those are the ones that love to dendrite / short and run away, especially after a major excursion.
aaron
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Ouch, that’s not a fun one.
I don’t think I’d start experimenting too much if the bike is completely dark now. I’d probably try the basic checks first, then get Energica or a dealer involved before digging any deeper.
Please update the thread if you find out what caused it. I’d like to know what the proper way is to wake one back up after sitting in LPR for that long.
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well, to be totally honest. if this is true and you brought the pack down to basically zero.
the battery manufacturer will tell you, the cell is shot, get a new one, due to liability issues
which means energica will tell you the same thing.. those same liability issues.
can you resurrect them, yes, will it be safe. maybe, no guarantee, which is why anyone at this point, any instructions they give you will be
do this at your own risk.
aaron
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Some insights:
If the battery pack is near or equal zero, the BMS is down (hopefully not bricked - who could help, if this is the case?)
Feeding 12V from external source (e. g. to F1 pin at charger manager plug) seems not to be sufficient to boot - battery needs to be connected.
Boot did always abort after about 2 seconds. I did a reset after a boot try, while red imobilizer LED was flashing. Maybe this did help or the battery reconnect - the bike now booted one time (all battery plugs connected) and engineering screen was available (see above).
Thank you Aaron and Chris - my battery has to be opened to check cell voltages and to decide further processing.
I'll keep you updated.
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in theory, a battery charger should work on it's own, it looks at the battery, talks, then puts the power to it.
if the battery is too low to talk it wont charge. or another way to look at it. these chargers work from umm i want to say like 97 volts up to like 255 or something like that.(dont quote me but i think they'll reject the 277 wildleg input, which sucks). meaning the lowest they can charge is.. well, in theory 97 volts. they can boost voltage to match the pack but won't buck it. so if your pack is sitting a 5 volts, or 50 volts, its literally too low for them to do.
this wont work here, and it's a real shitty way to revive a dead pack but, can give you an idea...i have a 40kwhr pack that is 4x12 volt cells in series., the reason i got them is, they wired them wrong and the heaters are on the battery side of the bms, meaning when it gets cold out, they turn on the heaters, but if the battery volts drop to cutout, don't care, the bitch stays on until they are at zero volts.. anyways. my 48 charger won't revive a battery, that is a well...non existent thing in lithium world. or supposed to be. my 12 volt on the other hand, has a recover mode that will put power into anything, but do so current limited. i hook it to one of the 12 volt batteries and fire it off, it brings that one battery up and then, the balancer that is also on it, feeds that to the rest of the batteries in the system to bring them up as well. it hops that 12 volts to each battery..which eventually restores the 48volt system to a voltage that allows me to then put the real charger back on it.
i have used something similar on other packs before, charge up one leg, wires and alligator clips work wonders, or pads with neodynium magnets on them, that way you can reach into a pack and clip the power where you need it, on the nickel bus. charge a P arm and the bms will route it to the others if its a passive, then eventually wake up to charge the battery normally, or if no wake up, its a few days but spihon charge the thing up. (note this wont work on the energica, it uses a stupid system to balance its batteries which is even fucking worse for the race bikes) but you could charge each arm or segment, individually until you hit them all... in an absolute worse case.
aaron
cough cough.... do at your own risk.
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I tried again without ignition short (orange/purple wires) and had various failures, but one time success and a full boot.
I was able to enter engineering screen. It seems, cells are defective - or is it a BMS module?
Based on the cell voltage and temp data from the eng screen the issue is likely a failed LMU board (part of the BMS) or a damaged trace on one of the circuit boards that provide the BMS cell voltage data.
The min cell voltage of 65535 is a place holder for "value out of range". Each LMU receives cell voltages from 8 battery cells, each cell voltage reading includes all previous cells in the chain. For example if all cell voltages were at 4V the vaults the LMU would receive are: 4,8,12,16,20,24,28,32. It calculates a specific cell voltage by subtracting the previous value (12-8=4=Voltage of cell #3). If the LMU does not receive a value from one cell this throws off the math and results in a value "out of range".
Assuming the OCV value (276V) is accurate then the average cell voltage of the pack is around 3.45V (276/80).
3.2V is the minimum cell voltage needed to charge a battery normally. 2.5V is the minimum safe limit for the cells but below 3.2V the pack would need to be charged manually.
Short answer there is something wrong in the battery that is causing it to report values outside of normal parameters. Until that issue is resolved the bike will continue to throw faults.
Unfortunately as the bikes PSU is working it will keep drawing small amounts of power from the battery. Over time this will discharge the cells to 0V. As you have no way to recharge the battery time is ticking.
I am not sure what HV vehicle repair resources are available in Germany. I know of someone in the Netherlands that is familiar with Energica battery repair.
Depending on the version of PSU installed in the bike it might be possible to unplug the power going to the PSU stopping the parasitic power draw.
Here are the 2 styles of PSU used in the 21.5kWh battery pack. The upper unit is know as a PSU11, the bottom unit is referred to as a TDK600
(https://i.ibb.co/WWgbRD1J/IMG-3625-1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WWgbRD1J)
The PSU is located behind a cover at the front of the pack, it is secured by T20 bolts and sealed by a o-ring.
Due to the high voltage inside the battery pack I can not suggest you remove this cover... But if you choose to ignore that suggestion you will see either a PSU11 or a TDK600.
The PSU11 can be unplugged from the high voltage supply. The TDK600 is hard wired into the bikes HV circuit, the only way to disconnect power is to cut the HV wires or remove the bottom cover from the battery and unbolt the connections.
Ideally your bike is running a PSU11. There is a 3 pin connector referenced in blue that carries HV power to the unit. Please note the area marked in red is part of the HV circuit and should not be touched.
(https://i.ibb.co/zTyQbb4M/IMG-3625-2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zTyQbb4M)
You can use a non conductive tool to depress the latch on the 3 pin connector and disconnect it.
Removing power from the PSU prevents the cells from being discharged further. Allowing you time to have the original issue repaired.
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Masterclass. Aweome information. Thanks for taking the time to share. Above and beyond.
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Thank you for the explanation.
I already opened the PSU cover. Unfortunately it's a TDK600 PSU - and HV voltage at the two through-connections to Cincon CFB600 converter is 0V. So, also at 12V outlet there is no power.
I now have all tools for removing the battery, so I will hurry.
Is it possible to to test and repair LMU boards outside the battery (so I would dismount)? Where are the LMUs located?
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I now have all tools for removing the battery, so I will hurry.
please don't hurry. take your time, slow and purposeful saves the 'what not to do' videos for some other guy. make sure you and your tools are properly insulated.
be safe, and good luck
aaron
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You don't need to remove the battery for PSU replacement. Lift the bike a little bit and remove the bottom battery cover to access the connectors. The bottom cover is sealed. Maybe Demoni can explain a bit more since I was next to him when he changed mine. I also had a Cincon PSU.
I opted not to experiment myself due to dangers of high voltage systems