ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Energica => Topic started by: FlyMig on March 21, 2026, 11:07:47 PM
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Hello guys, just a quick advice if some of you might know something about how to go along with this issue. Bike is at 17.5k miles in Southern California, rode fine the night before, tried to charge the next morning and nothing. No immobilizer lamp on the dashboard. Looked at the 315 mAH inline glass fuse, seemed like that was the problem since it had a dark spot, replaced it and nothing. The rest of the fuses are ok, tested it with the multimeter. Also did the test on the molex connector on the left top side of the battery for 9V or anything and it reads 0V as per Chris Paz previous post. I have no experience with electrics and can't really remove the PSU myself. There is a place in Europe that repairs these but since my PSU is attached differently, idk who could remove it to send it in for repair. Tried contacting Chris Paz but no luck and I understand the current circumstances. We were really lucky to have him.
Picture included of Power Supply Unit or that at least what it looks like to me.
Any advice appreciated, thanks
Loved every moment with the bike while it worked, and would like to keep riding it for as long as I can
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I had a similar issue with my Zero.
I think it was the Main Bike Board fuse blew and replacing didn't help.
Turned out to be the fuse holder itself was bad.
Your issue could be from a completely different source but easy enough to check continuity across a good new fuse through the holder.
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be careful checking a 315 ma fuse with the continuity tester function. some meters it puts out enough amps to actually blow the fuse while testing it. cheap meters are notorious for this. using a lower resistance setting and checking ohms might be a better way, and also very low ma fuses, they wont test at less than one ohm, some of them might show 5 or 10 ohms cold resistance and be good.
even though you replaced the fuse, that doesn't mean the new one is good. if something is shorted it could pip it the instant you touch it to the holder.
out of curiosity, why 315 ma, why not 4/10 or half an amp? im sure there is some reason, it's giving impedance to the input of something etc, but curious to why.
Aaron
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be careful checking a 315 ma fuse with the continuity tester function. some meters it puts out enough amps to actually blow the fuse while testing it. cheap meters are notorious for this. using a lower resistance setting and checking ohms might be a better way, and also very low ma fuses, they wont test at less than one ohm, some of them might show 5 or 10 ohms cold resistance and be good.
even though you replaced the fuse, that doesn't mean the new one is good. if something is shorted it could pip it the instant you touch it to the holder.
out of curiosity, why 315 ma, why not 4/10 or half an amp? im sure there is some reason, it's giving impedance to the input of something etc, but curious to why.
Aaron
Thanks Aaron, yea I've tried at least three new fuses just to cover if one of them is bad with no results. As for why this fuse, it's the same as stock and was recommended by Dom I believe (it worked on his bike). I will not test it with my multimeter since mine cost about $7 from Harbour Freight haha. It does the basic stuff plus I had to look up a video on how to use it. I def need a pro to take a look at the bike. Can't believe that there is no one around the LA area.
Also to add, I sent a email to the current Energica guy and he recommended to take it to the dealer but I told him that those guys are not permitted or trained to open up battery components to which he didn't reply. It's good at least that they are paying a guy to answer emails, so there is some sign of life...
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how far is la from the san fran area, a no go for you or?
chris who used to work for energica is there and he still works on the bikes. Desmoni is his handle here, or Demoni, i can't remember the exact spelling at this moment. reach out to him, he might be able to help you with it or make arrangements.
aaron
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It's probably a little over six hour drive from me but despite that I would do anything to get the bike fixed. I sent two emails to Chris but he hasn't responded, it's to his gmail account and not the previous when he was with energica. Also I would definitely pay for his services to diagnose the issue, not looking for a freebie haha.
I think at the moment the current Energica admin def doesn't seem to have any replacement parts or any personnel who would be qualified to work on these bikes. That is probably a long time out, if it ever happens... fingers crossed
Thanks Aaron
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Let me see if I have this right….
The device pictured looks to be a DC/DC converter & it’s not working which is why the bike “has no power”.
Can you test for the 180~400 vdc input to the board?
If you have input voltage then that rules out the first cause (no input voltage).
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sometimes chris can take a few days to reply, he has other things going on and at times, is on the road fixing other bikes.
he does check here fairly often so hopefully gets back with you in a few days.
possibly the key is goofed up, did you try cycling it a few times, maybe the switch fell off the back of the mechanical part,... just throwing some quick things out you can check while waiting for chris.
just for s and g can you plug the ac charger in and see if that causes it to do anything.
aaron
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I can't test for high voltage due to safety reasons, but what you can test yourself is the 9V output that comes from the board itself. If that is not flowing, then your bike will not start.
Aaron the bike is keyless, immobilizer lamp is out, no response from the startup button. I've tried charging and it only says connecting but no response from the bike.
The good news is that I am able either to buy the new part or to send my broken one for repair just in case anyone in the future runs into the same problem.
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I can't test for high voltage due to safety reasons,
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The good news is that I am able either to buy the new part or to send my broken one for repair just in case anyone in the future runs into the same problem.
I’m not understanding why you can’t check for incoming voltage but suspect that’s a personal decision (not a bad one at that if you’re not comfortable).
You could contact the manufacturer & see if they can help you troubleshoot this or possibly recommend a local (SoCal) vender that could look at it.
From the board you’ll find this info,
CINCON
CFB600-300S12N
A quick search netted a similar unit under $400 so throwing parts at it might pay off (as apposed to paying substantially more to have someone condemn it & then change it).
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Well if you tried to charge and it said connecting. then that means the 12 volt is working otherwise it'd not power up. so it is getting power to the head unit it appears.
that sounds like it lost it's mind like a hard reset was done or it locked up in some software fuckmode. i had my ribelle do this once.
try holding the on button down for like a minute straight. sucks i know but it might unlock if it is. ive had this happen to me on the let go from a fast charge for some reason it corrupted at the end of the cycle and just froze.
do you have a key that works, try plugging it in to charge, when it is powered on ... in it's attempt to charge (you know it's on then) try to hold the key on your left front fairing about where the logo is and see if you can get it to go into some sort of login screen.
worse case orange key it, which will wipe everything, then you'll have to re teach it your keys and possibly 4 digit code too.
can't guarantee any of this will work but it's worth a try since it seems you might be getting power.
aaron.
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CINCON
CFB600-300S12N
[/quote]
This is actually very useful information and helps work out a 12v power budget
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Well if you tried to charge and it said connecting. then that means the 12 volt is working otherwise it'd not power up. so it is getting power to the head unit it appears.
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can't guarantee any of this will work but it's worth a try since it seems you might be getting power.
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Not sure how you’ve determined that the bike has power when the OP has stated….
“tried to charge the next morning and nothing. No immobilizer lamp on the dashboard. Looked at the 315 mAH inline glass fuse, seemed like that was the problem since it had a dark spot, replaced it and nothing. The rest of the fuses are ok, tested it with the multimeter. Also did the test on the molex connector on the left top side of the battery for 9V or anything and it reads 0V”
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CINCON
CFB600-300S12N
This is actually very useful information and helps work out a 12v power budget
[/quote]
This information is from the OP’s image.
The manufacturer & part # are printed on the top of the unit.
Cincon has other DC/DC converter modules of different capacities as well.
https://www.cincon.com/
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Yea, you can actually purchase a brand-new unit here in the US or have it repaired in Europe with warranty (with a more robust replacement part). The issue for now and I hope it might get sorted out soon is to have someone that knows these bikes to replace it. Both parties have confirmed that I def have something burned at the board causing the bike not to have low power. I will def keep you guys updated so that if anyone in the future has their bike bricked just like this can get back on the road asap.
Energica did make some amazing machines, and I don't want to get another ICE bike as a replacement any time soon haha
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I’m not sure how anyone (let alone “Both parties“) can asses this without any testing.
Perhaps it’s a known weak point so the most probable cause for loss of low volt power.
The converter specs state 180~400vdc @ 4a input & in my opinion it needs to be determined that this voltage is or is not inputted before condemning the unit.
Can you find a 4amp(+-) 400+ vdc fuse between the battery & the converter?
If input power is present then the next step would be troubleshooting the trigger circuit.
Consult manufacturer for that procedure.
In a related issue, the low volt power on my 2016 Zero DSR would intermittently drop out & re-establish in its own.
The fault turned out to be pinched enable (ignition) circuit wire caused by steering headstock pinch.
Not suggesting your bike has this issue but mentioning it as definitive root cause must be determined via troubleshooting.
Where in SoCal are you located?
I have a VOM & know how to use it if your not too far away.
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i did a little research on this and it appears this is a fairly common problem with the energica bikes.
the brick itself, the cincon on top of your photo is the culprit most all the time, it's soldered onto the board as you can see.
past people have reported removing the brick, soldering a new one in, and it works fine.
the pcb is a custom pcb made by energica, so if you wanted the entire thing you'd most likely have to go through them for the entire assembly. unless of course they outsourced the entire mod and you can find where.
im thinking this thing is going to have hv on it all the time, since the 12 volt is always on, even when the bike isn't for the immobilizer and stuff right? so once you open the battery case you'd have to disconnect the bus carefully to de energize it.
once power is off you should be able to undo the molex plugs and slide it out to work on, and it's a quick solder job really. one note make sure you take the insulator or pad off the bottom of it or it may overheat and cause problems.
As a side note for those who were looking for more power for their stuff, this converter is said to be able to handle 50 amps, but would need a cooling fin along with the aluminum base it already comes with. I also wouldn't know if energica monitors current draw and that could cause grief as well. not to mention there already is enough heat probs with the bike, and room is at a super premium.
Digikey
Jameco
Mouser all stock this, you might be able to get one on amazon / ebay as well i didn't check there.
as another note. the N in the name implies it's N logic state. so the on signal is a logic low vs having voltage on the pin. so when you order the new one, that N does matter in your case since you can't / really don't want to be swapping wires around or adding parts to flip the signal.
as an off the wall comment.
ok you are not comfortable working with high voltages.
since it's really just 'electronics' you are working with. if the board is fairly accessible you might be able to get a tv repair or electronics repair shop to work on it. They work with those voltage ranges all the time, and it's not like they are going to get oily greasy or dirty really. maybe explain to them it's just changing out a circuit board on a power supply... they might do it for you. it's worth a try if you can't find someone else. they might squirm at the hot battery but it's no different than working on an inverter really when you open it up inverter/ups with battery pack.
Aaron
here's the pin config
PinFunction
1–Vin
2+Vin
3–On/Off (your N version)
4+On/Off
5–7+Vout (3 pins)
8–10–Vout (3 pins)
11–Sense
12+Sense
13Trim
14PC (Power Good)
15IOG
16AUX (7–13 V / 20 mA)
i believe 16 is a pilot signal to let you know the board is working and outputting voltrage
good luck. their website itself has diagrams and stuff too that might help you or a potential fixer upper.
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i did a little research on this and it appears this is a fairly common problem with the energica bikes.
the brick itself, the cincon on top of your photo is the culprit most all the time, it's soldered onto the board as you can see.
past people have reported removing the brick, soldering a new one in, and it works fine.
the pcb is a custom pcb made by energica, so if you wanted the entire thing you'd most likely have to go through them for the entire assembly. unless of course they outsourced the entire mod and you can find where.
im thinking this thing is going to have hv on it all the time, since the 12 volt is always on, even when the bike isn't for the immobilizer and stuff right? so once you open the battery case you'd have to disconnect the bus carefully to de energize it.
once power is off you should be able to undo the molex plugs and slide it out to work on, and it's a quick solder job really. one note make sure you take the insulator or pad off the bottom of it or it may overheat and cause problems.
As a side note for those who were looking for more power for their stuff, this converter is said to be able to handle 50 amps, but would need a cooling fin along with the aluminum base it already comes with. I also wouldn't know if energica monitors current draw and that could cause grief as well. not to mention there already is enough heat probs with the bike, and room is at a super premium.
Digikey
Jameco
Mouser all stock this, you might be able to get one on amazon / ebay as well i didn't check there.
as another note. the N in the name implies it's N logic state. so the on signal is a logic low vs having voltage on the pin. so when you order the new one, that N does matter in your case since you can't / really don't want to be swapping wires around or adding parts to flip the signal.
as an off the wall comment.
ok you are not comfortable working with high voltages.
since it's really just 'electronics' you are working with. if the board is fairly accessible you might be able to get a tv repair or electronics repair shop to work on it. They work with those voltage ranges all the time, and it's not like they are going to get oily greasy or dirty really. maybe explain to them it's just changing out a circuit board on a power supply... they might do it for you. it's worth a try if you can't find someone else. they might squirm at the hot battery but it's no different than working on an inverter really when you open it up inverter/ups with battery pack.
Aaron
here's the pin config
PinFunction
1–Vin
2+Vin
3–On/Off (your N version)
4+On/Off
5–7+Vout (3 pins)
8–10–Vout (3 pins)
11–Sense
12+Sense
13Trim
14PC (Power Good)
15IOG
16AUX (7–13 V / 20 mA)
i believe 16 is a pilot signal to let you know the board is working and outputting voltrage
good luck. their website itself has diagrams and stuff too that might help you or a potential fixer upper.
This SO smells like AI gone awry to me….
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Going to forums, reading what others have said and picking out stuff that is relevant is one of the things what AI is good for, THEN checking to make sure it is pertinent to your specific problem, for when you decide to use it to help you, not just blindly gobbling up everything it says as the truth, and vomiting it out, as some have done in the past. I seem to remember some clown about a sparking head bearing in the past. That's an example of mindless cut and paste without any clue what you are looking at or how a system works.
if he is going to work on it, this is what he has to look out for, and be careful to get the N gate one, otherwise you'll have to either relay it or add shit to swap the logic polarity on the signal, something which is far beyond his abilities as he has stated. It's not like he'd be working on a console or something where he can just pick another signal point, oh ill move 14-1 to 14-2 to get the low out since i got the wrong card. Both units are identical except the N in the part number stating that it's a logic 0 to turn it on. If he's going to order one, and gets the other one, it wont work right for him, which could be easy to do, especially if someone who doesn't know this says, yah they both the same, use this one. THAT kind of shit is notorious if you are going to order stuff off e bay instead of going to mouser or a more reputable place.
While i was reading the tech paper / specifics about it from the company's own site, they gave a pin out diagram and mentioned a pilot signal, so i added that as something he could possibly check if he's comfortable up in there to see if the module is indeed bad.
if you goto reddit and query you can see threads where others have had to replace this module on their equipment and stated that it's a real simple solder job, it just drops onto a circuit board generally and solder in / solder off. Reddit is not necessarily a bastion of truth, but is a place where a lot of people post, hey, i need xxx type stuff, i went there to see if anyone else had any dealings with this power converter.
i did ask ai about the energica bike specifically and it replied that they use their own custom board, so that kind of tells me, no you can't order the whole module. looking at the picture he put on his op showing us the board, i seen the hv goop around the leads coming into the board. ok you are going to have to do a lot of wiring, THEN re goop it up on the hv lines, a big pain in the ass. much easier to just desolder the module from the board imo.
it's called actually doing a little research and checking a few places to verify what you read is probably correct.
Smells like you need to take your meds again nutboy, now go away the adults are speaking.
Aaron
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As far as my electrical knowledge goes, I have done all that I can do. If I was to proceed any further the last thing I would feel is 300 Volts surging thru my body and that would be it. Let's not push our luck hahaha ;D
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That's why i mentioned that maybe an electrical / electronics repair shop, if you can find one may be able to help you. yes it's a motorcycle but not in the sense of a normal one, it's very clean, and honestly, they are working on something very similar to an u;s/power supply, no different than sticking your dickskinners into the back of an old crt tv, until you grounded it of course.
out here, one of our colleges has a battery / ev class now, they are teaching the kids how to work on this type of stuff as a career. i met the guy who runs it at one of the ..i guess you could call it, show off your electric vehicle events jax had. anyways, you could check your local colleges, maybe one of them has a robotics club / class, they would be heavily into this kind of nerdy stuff too. They'd probably love the chance to work on a real live vehicle like that, and of course would be supervised / trained on handling high voltages.
like you, i don't want to be stuck with a dead bike one day, so am always looking for options how to get stuff fixed when the day comes.
the power converter is a very common item and not that hard to work on IF you are an electrical type. if you know any navy guys, a radioman or ET would be able to do this kind of work as well, or power plant people like me in the I&C field, operator maintainer, possibly electrician. The engineers might IF their company allows them to actually work on stuff and not just the paper side of it. Each company is different in who does what job wise. Ive met many co-conspirators heh, from many other power plants around and most of us, have side gigs and hobbies we do, or are into nerdtronics,.. just places you might find people who can possibly help you, if nothing pans out on the energica / e bike side.
besides for this forum, reddit and places like that are good to find and link up with people or knowledge on various topics like this. Granted it is the internet, so travel carefully Sadly long gone are the days where you grab a Chilton's manual and go at it knowing the knowledge is solid.
aaron
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The fix is easy.
DC-DC converter brick can be replaced without disconnecting hard-wired conductors on front side, one needs powered solder sucker tool otherwise it's fine to remove conductors.
In either case, the high-voltage needs to be removed by disconnecting main fuse...there's no fuse inside the brick and no fuse on PCB because one can see the silkscreened connector footprint for incoming power...cannot make fuse sensitive enough @ 300V 1.85A draw for 50A when nominal load is a fraction of that. The belly plate on battery pack needs to be removed to access main fuse, deductive reasoning not first hand knowledge.
The (7-13VDC) Aux power is sourced directly from DC-DC converter brick, at minimum this should be verified w/ DVM, see attachment layout for visual aid. If memory serves, application notes state that Aux output is only 20mA which feeds the 315mA fuse.
Digikey will source a CFB600-300S12N replacement, let me know and I will contact them since I do regular business with them, it will likely be several weeks lead-time as none on-hand from factory at this time. $260 is standard cost. Add 45% tariff and 10% dick brain tax on top of that and it's still worth it.
OP - what is the state of charge on battery? I thought if keep-alive voltage drops out the bike will not wake up but not sure regarding charger circuit.
Here to help if we can.
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The fix is easy.
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In either case, the high-voltage needs to be removed by disconnecting main fuse...
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Here to help if we can.
I still contend that incoming (hi) voltage needs to be confirmed before condemning the converter.
I encourage the OP to find the 4a (or less) fuse on the conductor(s) leading from the battery to the converter.
Once found perhaps a visual &/or voltage check across the fuse will confirm the fuse condition (no need to remove as long as there’s enough bare conductor(s) to facilitate test).
If the fuse is open (circuit) then I’m guessing you should see battery voltage on meter as the meter becomes the load due to the converter only seeing one leg (+ or -) & merely passing the voltage along to the meter.
If the fuse is good then there will not be a voltage differential & the next step would be to check for hi volt @ converter.
If hi voltage is present, test for low voltage out (see above image for test points).
If none, look for fuse. Not sure if it will have voltage across it if bad.
Or just shortcut & test for input/output voltage @ converter to skip the first step.
You SHOULD be fairly safe performing this & I again extend my help in this mater (tho it might be delayed due to developing family issue).
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PWM you are correct. Remove that belly pan on the battery pack and there is some buswork there. The board is behind that aluminum plate on it. There might be a fuse in there that feeds it, im seeing that some models have one, others don't, so don't want to say for sure yes the fuse is there, w/o actually seeing HIS unit, not a general picture of one.
either way, unplug the molex plug, and wait a few for stuff to discharge, and please be VERY careful, it's hot inside that battery case, you are behind enemy lines, so to say, so there is nothing really protecting you, the voltage is lethal if you hook yourself up to it.
Chris hopefully can answer you soon, and I believe DonTom has worked on his as well, so there's 2 competent sources of info what's all inside there that might be able to help you.
So.... with the closing of Energica San Fran, there are no more dealers open in the US really to work on Energica bikes im thinking. With this, given it's just a battery, and i do not *think* the converter is a wedded part, a zero or livewire dealer might be able to do this for you as well, given they should not have to dick with any energica proprietary code or stuff that only they can do, if it ends up the bike needs to be taken in to be repaired. If they are comfortable working on zero / lw batts they shouldn't be too squeamish about this one.
Good luck, hopefully someone can help you get her back running.
Aaron
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I'm having a new board shipped and Chris will check out the bike. Don't know what the exact cause could be yet, I will update all of you. We will have the bike running soon I hope :-)
Thank you Eric for your offer to help!
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So you got in contact with Chris, awesome, if anyone can fix this and do it right it's him.
You are in good hands now, and yes please let us know what it tutns out to be.
Did you find the entire board or just the converter?
Aaron
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Make sure to have a spare high volt fuse (or two) just in case it’s needed.
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The entire board from that place Energica of New England. Dave has them in stock. You can also have them repaired at multiple places in Europe, with warranty and better components than the original. Yep, Chris has been awesome. The best dude for this job for sure.
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I know right?? what Energica did to him was absolutely fucking awful. Him and Stefano both are the heart and soul of that company. They'll learn soon enough, IF they ever recover. Thankfully we have Chris around to keep our bikes going for as long as possible with what we do have though.
Aaron
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I have the exact same problem with my 2022 Eva Ribelle... I got to 37k miles and the immobilizer started tripping randomly, then after a few months it never powered up again. No heartbeat, no response to charger, nothing. Checked all fuses (including the glass cylinder fuse).
At a loss.
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I have the exact same problem with my 2022 Eva Ribelle... I got to 37k miles and the immobilizer started tripping randomly, then after a few months it never powered up again. No heartbeat, no response to charger, nothing. Checked all fuses (including the glass cylinder fuse).
At a loss.
Contact the following.
https://www.energicaofnewengland.com/ (https://www.energicaofnewengland.com/)
Where do you live NE, SE, SW, NW ?
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I have the exact same problem with my 2022 Eva Ribelle... I got to 37k miles and the immobilizer started tripping randomly, then after a few months it never powered up again. No heartbeat, no response to charger, nothing. Checked all fuses (including the glass cylinder fuse).
At a loss.
Your best option is to try and find a dealer that's still willing to work on the bikes. Eva Ribelle has a known problem with the PSU that can cause this, the firmware on its controller gets wiped for some reason so you have no 12v power. It can to be flashed but you'll need someone who knows what they're looking at to properly assess that that's the actual issue. As for fixing it I think there's someone in The Netherlands who does it but I only know that because the Euro dealer networks managed to contract with them.
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I have the exact same problem with my 2022 Eva Ribelle... I got to 37k miles and the immobilizer started tripping randomly, then after a few months it never powered up again. No heartbeat, no response to charger, nothing. Checked all fuses (including the glass cylinder fuse).
At a loss.
If you have a volt meter & are confident in using it, suggest you check for voltage going into @ out of the converter using the informed in this thread.
If not, try contacting Cincon
Cincon Electronics
5450 Ralston St. Ste 201
Ventura, CA 93003
Tel: 805-639-3350 ext.101
Fax: 805-639-4101
www.cincon.com
to see if they could direct you to someone close to your location that could work on it.
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Thank you ESokoloff, Stonewolf, and PWM. I live in Tampa... Both of the previous dealers here in Florida say they don't service Energica anymore.
I'll look at the 12v signal, and look into re-flashing the ECU.
Thanks again,
Mike (firmware)
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I have the exact same problem with my 2022 Eva Ribelle... I got to 37k miles and the immobilizer started tripping randomly, then after a few months it never powered up again. No heartbeat, no response to charger, nothing. Checked all fuses (including the glass cylinder fuse).
At a loss.
Still waiting on my fix, will keep you updated if finally I get her going. Can't believe that no one in the So Cal area is able to work on these bikes since we are a mecca of motorcycling. I'm sure they sold many of these here. I have seen only a few in the wild. Jay Leno has one too haha
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UPDATE.
Power Supply Unit replaced with upgraded one as well as new bus bars!! Battery was removed for the bus bar replacement
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AWESOME!!!
That looks like a bit of work but hopefully this repair will last the lifetime of the bike.
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UPDATE.
Power Supply Unit replaced with upgraded one as well as new bus bars!! Battery was removed for the bus bar replacement
Bravo FlyMig for the DIY effort...you should be proud of the good results.
Can you share part sourcing info regarding the service replaced items, was it a turn-key PSU or repair?
What about firmware reflash? Who supports this and where are they located?
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Ok so I got the part thru Energica of New England, and the bike was repaired by ex Energica engineer here on the West Coast of the US. So, I opted to drive the bike straight to him for repairs or you can ship yours depending on what works best for you. I had some balancing issues with power surging during charging slow and fast even at lower SOC so I also had the bus bars replaced which is why the battery was out. That seems to fix the issue and now I have power blasting all the way to full (reduced towards the top of course).
Interesting that with the trained technician the battery can be out and replaced within the time it takes for you to drink your coffee.
Here are a few more pics bellow
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Battery install
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Bottom of the battery
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Side cover removed for bus bar replacement
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That seems to fix the issue and now I have power blasting all the way to full.
Glad to hear the bike is performing as it should after the repair.
The first thought I had when I saw the first photo was "cool I have the same welder and flooring in my garage", then I realized it was my garage. 8)
For reference to others the PSU had failed, once the new unit was installed the bike functioned normally. The busbars were also updated as the bike exhibited symptoms pointing to an issue.