ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: Kill3rT0fu on May 02, 2025, 09:20:46 PM
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This post is just for whoever wants to do an upgrade in the future, either with a Diginow pan or something else third party. I finally got around to installing the 9.9kw charge pan that I had obtained about two years ago (don't judge me! I had injuries, then house projects, and other life stuff!)
(https://i.imgur.com/nVvgtvS.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iwkaVfO.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JZ295hS.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PcKIval.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tUTaFKQ.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/u1LnRSM.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1E2k3Uc.jpeg)
The charge port bracket I made is available on Thingiverse. I 3d printed this one in NylonX (carbon nylon blend) but I think PETG would do just fine. The blender 3d file is also included in case any modifications need to be made.
And yes, the original tank still fits, so I get to keep the cargo space or possibly upgrde to a power tank.
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As an update to this, a very skilled and trained electrical engineer in SF has updated this system. Internet username skonkfactory had a v2.5 system on their DSR and was quite satisfied for several years. Then some components failed and they reached out to me. Obviously the company and everything is sorta dead and gone, but I shared all my notes and diagrams and brandon's publicly-available source code.
Within short order skonk relayed their horror at how poorly constructed the control board was made and coded. Out of what can only be described as indignation and disgust they decided to fix everything. Over the next couple of weeks they sourced new, beefier hardware and then delved into the code. I heard a lot about how bad the code was. And the hardware. Basically brandon is a hack and I'm fine with that evaluation. Anyway skonk fixed the garbage coded, fixed the garbage hardware, and open-sourced it all. Oh, wait, also added wifi support so you can control your charging from the comfort of your own bed.
So... yeah. The Superchargerv2.5j isn't something I'm going to make, but I do plan on publishing all of skonk's stuff and hopefully make a DIY guide so that you, too, can have the most intelligent charging on your gen 2 Zero.
(https://i.imgur.com/0tfkCPq.png)
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So... yeah. The Superchargerv2.5j isn't something I'm going to make, but I do plan on publishing all of skonk's stuff and hopefully make a DIY guide so that you, too, can have the most intelligent charging on your gen 2 Zero.
[insert bag of popcorn here…]
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(https://i.imgur.com/lYw8PWh.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/IEMyuCz.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/vDUjMb4.png)
parts links:
MX23 connector: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/jae-electronics/MX23A18NF1/2139251?so=88599410
dc/dc converter: 2 off https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/xp-power/RDE0324S05/8535651?so=88602987
arduino uno r4 wifi: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/arduino/ABX00087/20371539
automotive connectors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B2ZR1B99/
potting epoxy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VXV9YZ2/
arduino protoshields (I used the green ones from this kit): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08MTFY2PR/
the (optional) USB-C cable is there so you can reprogram the arduino after it's potted
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CN645NJ3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
USB C to USB C Cable, 60W 3.3ft Flat USB C Charging Cable, Right An...
Elevate your connectivity experience with our USB C to USB C 90-Degree Cable. Crafted with high-quality materials, this 3.3-foot cable boasts exceptional durability while supporting fast charging and high-speed data transfer. Whether you're in the office, at home, or on the go, this cable adapts ...
Image
the flat end goes into the arduino, the other end goes into:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09QLR3ZG6/
ANMBEST 2PCS USB 3.1 Type C Panel Mounting Waterproof Connector, IP...
The TYPE C signal panel connector is a Female/Female Couple. Using the standards based TYPE C connection system insures compatibility with existing hardware. The coupler maintains the continuity offering protection from EMI/RFI interference.
the (optional) USB-C cable is there so you can reprogram the arduino after it's potted
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CN645NJ3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
USB C to USB C Cable, 60W 3.3ft Flat USB C Charging Cable, Right An...
Elevate your connectivity experience with our USB C to USB C 90-Degree Cable. Crafted with high-quality materials, this 3.3-foot cable boasts exceptional durability while supporting fast charging and high-speed data transfer. Whether you're in the office, at home, or on the go, this cable adapts ...
Image
the flat end goes into the arduino, the other end goes into:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09QLR3ZG6/
ANMBEST 2PCS USB 3.1 Type C Panel Mounting Waterproof Connector, IP...
The TYPE C signal panel connector is a Female/Female Couple. Using the standards based TYPE C connection system insures compatibility with existing hardware. The coupler maintains the continuity offering protection from EMI/RFI interference.
edit- all hail our Welsh overlords
(http://i.imgur.com/NW0DJyGm.jpg) (https://imgur.com/NW0DJyG)
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Unfortunately it looks like more then I can take on as a DIY project :(
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Unfortunately it looks like more then I can take on as a DIY project :(
Yeah, Looks like a deep project for someone like me. I could probably do it with some assistance, but life right now doesn't offer me the time. I'd pay good money if he offers a limited run of these.
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if it looks like ass, remember, buttercoat is your friend ;D
aaron
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The rest? That's everything.
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Do you think this will work for the non-CAN version that use the resistor and switches?
By the way, the last pic cannot be view when I clicked on it.
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The whole point of this is to use CAN versions that interface with the bike's systems. If you have no interest in doing that then skip this entirely.
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Sorry, maybe you misunderstood my point. I bought one of the last batch that you made where instead of the Bluetooth controller, a resistor was used along with the switches to initiate the ever and bike. So I thought my Elcon are not CAN enable. That is why I ask the above question. If they are CAN enable, I will definitely give this a shot since I love to tinker. Thanks for posting.
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Got it. All the units we sold had CAN. It was just fully isolated meaning it didn't interface with the bike. If you build your own 2.5j controller it should fully integrate and even have Wifi support now!
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What, that I hit control V twice by mistake? You don't have to actually do it twice.
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What, that I hit control V twice by mistake? You don't have to actually do it twice.
Unless you are in california, then you want to be for sure for sure
Aaron
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UUhhhh I dunno where they might have hosted it but I have it downloaded anyway. Lemme see if I can attach it here.
edit- nope 600k limit. Uhhhh lemme put it on my google drive
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eTsFw9PPmrFJfePe1LfPORy32HfTLF9D/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q77HKWnyf9tNEiPIA1FrnzWfMjHZT5Ho/view?usp=sharing
See if that works
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too big?
did you try using a smaller font? ;D 8)
Aaron
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UUhhhh I dunno where they might have hosted it but I have it downloaded anyway. Lemme see if I can attach it here.
edit- nope 600k limit. Uhhhh lemme put it on my google drive
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eTsFw9PPmrFJfePe1LfPORy32HfTLF9D/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q77HKWnyf9tNEiPIA1FrnzWfMjHZT5Ho/view?usp=sharing
See if that works
Thank you.
The link is blocked at work. I'll try again tonight when I get home.
Edit. Got it. Thanks.
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@MVetter
Thank you and Skonk for all of this. Truly appreciate it.
However..
Any chance to upload the high res version of those pics somewhere? Imgur does not want to give me pictures where it's possible to actually read the diagram or study the electrical connections in the pictures.
If you need help sharing, i can put them on my protondrive for future ref.
Also: i've used my supercharger for several years now without issue, but not being able to control it has been a miss. As an electrical engineer i did however both pot the chargers with gelgum (electrical isolates, but conducts heat) in the pan and insulated the control box when installed. These small things might have saved my system from issues others have experienced as i have used this charger pan at max peaek charging from 10-20% all the way up at 9,9 kW several times.
edit: added the "also" part.
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Imgur has gone wonky as of late I've found. Let's try another image host for the diagram:
https://ibb.co/fzWGnVfR
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nice
thank you! :)
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Okay, now that I've got the chargers installed I can finally see why people are concerned with battery degradation. It's making me rethink the charger location so I'm looking to steal NewZeroland's idea of shoving two of them in the tank area.
But I have a side question I'm hoping someone can help me with: I need fans for ventilation. Where can I tap into a 12v source of power for fans? Is the SAE port the only one, and if so, isn't that only enabled when the bike is on?
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As an update to this, a very skilled and trained electrical engineer in SF has updated this system. Internet username skonkfactory had a v2.5 system on their DSR and was quite satisfied for several years. Then some components failed and they reached out to me. Obviously the company and everything is sorta dead and gone, but I shared all my notes and diagrams and brandon's publicly-available source code.
Within short order skonk relayed their horror at how poorly constructed the control board was made and coded. Out of what can only be described as indignation and disgust they decided to fix everything. Over the next couple of weeks they sourced new, beefier hardware and then delved into the code. I heard a lot about how bad the code was. And the hardware. Basically brandon is a hack and I'm fine with that evaluation. Anyway skonk fixed the garbage coded, fixed the garbage hardware, and open-sourced it all. Oh, wait, also added wifi support so you can control your charging from the comfort of your own bed.
So... yeah. The Superchargerv2.5j isn't something I'm going to make, but I do plan on publishing all of skonk's stuff and hopefully make a DIY guide so that you, too, can have the most intelligent charging on your gen 2 Zero.
(https://i.imgur.com/0tfkCPq.png)
I'm just now re-reading over these as I start the next phase of my project. What are these "catastrophic" problems he speaks of?
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Keep in mind skonk (our Welsh overlord) who is more well-versed in any of this shit than I ever will be, did a deep-dive into all the hardware and software of everything for the v2.5 SuperCharger. And the more they dove the angrier they got. I have weeks of messages saying things like, "what the FUCK was Brandon doing? That's the wrong ground line. How the hell did this even ever work? No wonder you had a high fail rate you put the X on the wrong Y and .... god how did it even work at all?"
Anyway, several weeks of chiding and poking about the main problems, as I understand them were:
- The 5 volt bus was woefully underpowered and was unable to handle the demands Brandon specced
- The wrong grounds were used on the Arduinos
- The curing epoxy Brandon procured got very, very hot when Part A and Part B were mixed. It was meant to be kept cool. For whatever reason Brandon interpreted that as it had to be kept hot and we literally set the boxes to cure on top of bricks on a fireplace. There's a very strong chance the soldering points melted and disconnected
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Keep in mind skonk (our Welsh overlord) who is more well-versed in any of this shit than I ever will be, did a deep-dive into all the hardware and software of everything for the v2.5 SuperCharger. And the more they dove the angrier they got. I have weeks of messages saying things like, "what the FUCK was Brandon doing? That's the wrong ground line. How the hell did this even ever work? No wonder you had a high fail rate you put the X on the wrong Y and .... god how did it even work at all?"
Anyway, several weeks of chiding and poking about the main problems, as I understand them were:
- The 5 volt bus was woefully underpowered and was unable to handle the demands Brandon specced
- The wrong grounds were used on the Arduinos
- The curing epoxy Brandon procured got very, very hot when Part A and Part B were mixed. It was meant to be kept cool. For whatever reason Brandon interpreted that as it had to be kept hot and we literally set the boxes to cure on top of bricks on a fireplace. There's a very strong chance the soldering points melted and disconnected
If there's one thing the internet taught me, melted soldering points can be fixed by MORE HEAT! Just throw them boxes in an oven to re-melt them like old nvidia cards.
Do you happen to know if these guys are making any small batches of these boxes on comission?
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if they disconnected, there means there must have been some force to make them come apart, the wires under tension, something moved one of them etc. if they did come apart just melting the solder again is not going to necessarily make them come back together again, you'll need some way to physically make sure that point A is properly touching point B then soldering them back together. Other you just have poor / plasticisized welds and they will just overheat and cause problems again in the future. if you could clean out the epoxy to get to the soldered pieces and redo that'd be best.
besides chemicals, a re purposed yterbium fiber laser works great for stuff like this, i use one to cut open battery cases im working on, keep the power very low, about 300 watts, and run it at about 3 to 4 khz and it'll zip right through that epoxy. play with power level and freq to find optimum setting where it'll remove the exoxy without too much explosive ablasion and messing with the stuff inside. essentially cut / clean off the epoxy, then re solder the spot, ironically you can use the same laser, as a welder now to fuse the parts together, then re epoxy or whatever
aaron
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Sure let me just go back to 2018 when we were making these and do all that
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Since we love necroing old threads, i figured this one needed some life again. :P
I have finally had some time to work on this project and while waiting for hardware, decided to start on some code..
I have upgraded the base hardware with a ESP32 unit with 2 CAN (isolated) Bus interfaces.
I have a github repo for this, but i'd like to solve the power and CAN connector to the bike with more documentation before publishing.
I had the idea of creating a workable circuit board one can order straight from places like JLPCB.com.
If anyone want a sneak peek on the github data, pm me..
Fair warning: i suck at coding (being an electrical engineer and all) so a lot of the work has been done with the use of AI.
However.. it does work, and quite well. (in lab so far, not tried connecting to bike yet)
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Why? Skonk already fixed it and open sourced the code which I've linked on a google drive. It functions in the real world, not in AI shit theory land
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Because i wanted more.
And i wanted hardware that took up less space. this way it is contained onto 2 pcb's.
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Since we love necroing old threads, i figured this one needed some life again. :P
I have finally had some time to work on this project and while waiting for hardware, decided to start on some code..
I have upgraded the base hardware with a ESP32 unit with 2 CAN (isolated) Bus interfaces.
I have a github repo for this, but i'd like to solve the power and CAN connector to the bike with more documentation before publishing.
I had the idea of creating a workable circuit board one can order straight from places like JLPCB.com.
If anyone want a sneak peek on the github data, pm me..
Fair warning: i suck at coding (being an electrical engineer and all) so a lot of the work has been done with the use of AI.
However.. it does work, and quite well. (in lab so far, not tried connecting to bike yet)
The Diginow project was awesome, the closest we have gotten to plug and play installation. It had some design flaws, many of which were fixed in the last code iteration (the code for which Mvetter kindly shared recently).
The Diginow project is about ten years old now and 'technologia' has come a long way since then. It would be lovely to get new updated kit. Clear instructions on how to assemble. Complete list of parts to order (including what programing should be in the chargers themselves). All in one place.
Just be careful to not do the same mistakes as were made in the Diginow project. Overloading components and so on. AI often overlooks things that are obviously wrong.
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Yes, thank you
I based it on skonk's work. the physical connections are therefore the same. (with isolated power supplies and so on)
I am an electrical engineer, so my shortcoming is in creating code.
The basis of the code is what skonk did. i just extended it to work with esp32 and specifically the chips used for the can modules.
In addition i upgraded the code for the webpage so it looks better(and adapts for mobile use) and added logic for it to connect to wlan and send the info over MQTT so i can use HomeAssistant to monitor it.
I'd like to add CP signal, but first i want to verify the work done so far, and i am waiting for the power supply and connector for the bike can, so i can test the system.
The process around the CP signal also requires more hardware for isolation and voltage level conversion, so that's gonna take me some time..