Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Булгаков]

Hello all,
Some time ago I added to my bike an additional charging cable and plug for quick charging:
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=7111.0

And it worked for a while, but then the cheap fuse holder melted, as Terry predicted. So finally I replaced it with a proper fuse, and took a few photos as well.

I also did not like that in the cheap fuse holder there was only a set screw to hold the wire. I also crimped new ring terminals for this replacement fuse.

The fuse is 100Amp, Littelfuse JLLS-100, Mouser part # 576-JLLS100.V
Bolted it to new 4AWG 5/16" ring terminals (Mouser part# 538-19221-0231) with lock washer. Then, because it is uninsulated, I applied many layers from a hot glue gun to cover any sharp edges, and then wrapped several layers of electrical tape, and finally added heat shrink tubing and zip ties to be sure that electrical tape does not unravel when hot. She is ugly, but works.

If for some reason I must replace the fuse, a knife will cut through the glue easily.

[Булгаков]

photos

[Doctorbass]

 

Is it dielectric grease or silicone you added?

If it is silicone, make sure it is non corrosive  (dont have the acetic acid) HYPER  IMPORTANT !!!!because the contact between the fuse terminal and the wire terminal might corrode just with the vapor or even worst the direct contact and become a hot spot.

Doc

[Булгаков]

Is it dielectric grease or silicone you added?

Neither. It is hot-melt adhesive. I have not seen it cause corrosion on other projects, so I hope this one will be okay too. No product information about what is in the sticks of glue.

[MrDude_1]

Is it dielectric grease or silicone you added?

Neither. It is hot-melt adhesive. I have not seen it cause corrosion on other projects, so I hope this one will be okay too. No product information about what is in the sticks of glue.

most hot glues are ethylene-vinyl acetate blended with varying ratios of additives to change the melting temp.
They're safe for electronics use, however cold weather and vibration can cause seperation and hot wires can melt it enough for it to creep... however in this application, I dont see it moving in normal use, as its trapped by the heatshrink and tape... assuming the wire does not get too hot.

in the future, I would do it with just adhesive heatshrink though... if the fuse or connector is sharp, just break the edge down.

[Lenny]

Happy to see that it works as suggested and expected :-)

[Булгаков]

Thank you MrDude_1 and Lenny for the suggestions.

I quick charged again today (65A through this cable, + 30A on the Zero OEM chargeport), and even though it was a hot day ( ~40C ) I felt no additional warming on or around this added fuse, and the glue did not feel soft still. Since I cannot push more than 95A total without reaching the 1C charging rate maximum, I hope that this configuration will remain stable.

Perhaps BrianTRice or MrDude_1 can add this to the Unofficial Zero Manual if it is helpful to others?

[Doug S]

in the future, I would do it with just adhesive heatshrink though... if the fuse or connector is sharp, just break the edge down.

Since the heat shrink pre-lined with hot glue is so expensive, I make my own: heat up your hot glue gun, get a cup of cold water, and squeeze the glue into the water. It will set up very quickly into a long thin string. Cut this to the length you need, insert into the heat shrink (or two or three pieces if you need them), and shrink normally. Works the same as the prefab stuff for a fraction of the price.

BTW, nicely done, Булгаков. (Thank god for copy and paste!)

[Булгаков]

Since the heat shrink pre-lined with hot glue is so expensive, I make my own: heat up your hot glue gun, get a cup of cold water, and squeeze the glue into the water. It will set up very quickly into a long thin string. Cut this to the length you need, insert into the heat shrink (or two or three pieces if you need them), and shrink normally. Works the same as the prefab stuff for a fraction of the price.

BTW, nicely done, Булгаков. (Thank god for copy and paste!)

Very cool idea. I will have to try that in the future. Thanks!

I was thinking perhaps if others do not have a hydraulic crimper tool, but want to add an additional charge port for EVtricity or Diginow or other chargers, I could offer to make bolt-on cable sets as I have done, though I'm not sure if it would be cost effective. Probably only for North America?

[ESokoloff]

Here's how 3M recommends insulating splitbolt electrical connectors (should be directly applicable to your application when/if you do it again).

[Electric Terry]

And it worked for a while, but then the cheap fuse holder melted, as Terry predicted. So finally I replaced it with a proper fuse, and took a few photos as well.

Haha yes, I knew that was going to happen.  Nice work on the new fuse! That setup looks like it will last, but I'd also suggest using glue lined heat shrink.  If you were doing 10,000 fuses I would totally use Doug's idea (very cool btw Doug!) but for one single fuse or even a couple, getting the glue lined heat shrink offers a moisture seal and full coverage on all surfaces of the heat shrink.

[Булгаков]

Cool, thanks!