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[Булгаков]

Hello all,

Inspired by other's success adding quick charging to their Zeros, I have added an additional charge port to mine, so I can now charge with factory port as well as this one. Now I can use existing DeltaQ quick chargers on factory accessory port, and then also use aftermarket charger on my own port, without worrying about getting the signal enabling  QuiQ chargers through multiple splitter cables.

This of course is already documented well in
http://zeromanual.com/index.php/Advanced_Modifications#Charging_Through_Sevcon_Controller
but if anyone wants additional photos, here they are (and I have high-resolution as well of course):

Crimped SBS connector pins with hydraulic press.
Put protective sleave on wiring, route it and high-amp fuse case so no sharp corners. (Then later tighten everything with zip ties.)
Finished connector with clamp sits just below OEM power plug on left of bike, easy to access. Much more convenient than factory charge port.

Does anyone know where to get such a dust cover for the SBS plug? Mouser does not show it.

Used dielectric grease wherever possible, heat-shrink sleeves.
Though SBS pin specified maximum of 6AWG (slightly less than 16mm^2), I was able to use high-strand count 4AWG (almost 25mm^2) with patience and crimping. Wire was rated for 200C temperature. Should handle more than 100A, though I have fuse for 60A currently.

Tested at 55A charge rate and no connections display any noticeable temperature rise. Very happy.

[Electric Terry]

Nice work! But I'll tell you from experience that car stereo fuses are designed for temporary highs and not designed for heat.  The fuse will do 60A continuous but the housing won't.  It will melt eventually.  Ask me how I know! lol

[Булгаков]

Nice work! But I'll tell you from experience that car stereo fuses are designed for temporary highs and not designed for heat.  The fuse will do 60A continuous but the housing won't.  It will melt eventually.  Ask me how I know! lol

Thanks! Hmm. Do you have a recommendation for a better housing? And how soon did your housing melt? Now I'm nervous.


Since I have 2kW on the accessory port, and only 3.3kW on this port currently, hopefully not a problem right now?

[Electric Terry]

I was running 10 kW through it (100 amps) through a 250 amp fuse.  It lasted a month and I started getting severe isolation issues and it turned out the plastic melted and the fuse metal was touching the frame!

Might be ok with just a Delta Q or something, and maybe even a single 3.3 Diginow Supercharger, but I can tell you it doesn't like continuous heat, it's more a fuse designed for high bass hits a few times a minute vs a continuous load.

I have not found a easy packaged fuse yet capable of the amps, so I am using just the main battery fuse as protection.  If something happens and it blows I have to remove the battery dog house, but that's ok. 

Keep using it for now, just keep an eye on it.   At under 100 amps maybe it does ok.

[Electric Terry]

this is the same fuse sitting on my Corbin seat of my Zero after discovering it.

[mrwilsn]

You can use a breaker instead of a fuse.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

[MrDude_1]

You can use a ceramic or fiberglass 2 post fuse connector. They will not melt.
You will probably have to go to an electrical supply house or order it online, it's not a common item.

[Булгаков]

Hmm. Thank you everyone for the suggestions. I will start looking around. I guess for now I will just keep checking on it. I hope with < 60A on that port that I can just leave it alone.

If anyone has links to nice compact fuseholders / DC breakers possibly they can be added to unofficial service manual ?

[Lenny]

This is a fuse similar to the one Zero is using: http://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/JLLN100V/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuvhwH9hxnX5qjBbeTzrq%2fChWUq0qttPuQ=

Screw crimped connectors on it and insert it into heat shrink tube, just like Zero does with the onboard charge fuse.

[Булгаков]

This is a fuse similar to the one Zero is using: http://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/JLLN100V/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuvhwH9hxnX5qjBbeTzrq%2fChWUq0qttPuQ=

Screw crimped connectors on it and insert it into heat shrink tube, just like Zero does with the onboard charge fuse.

That looks great! and smaller too.  I think I will put that on my list of upgrades.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

I like this hack. It at least adds a modicum of safety for using a controller charging connection. I'll queue it for the wiki with disclaimers.

That said, hopefully we can figure out how to assemble a really good breaker or the right fuse to protect equipment in a variety of situations (slow and fast limits).

[MrDude_1]

I like this hack. It at least adds a modicum of safety for using a controller charging connection. I'll queue it for the wiki with disclaimers.

That said, hopefully we can figure out how to assemble a really good breaker or the right fuse to protect equipment in a variety of situations (slow and fast limits).

I also like the idea of a fuse, but having it just covered by heatshrink and not solidly mounted to prevent abrasion makes me very nervous.

[Булгаков]

I like this hack. It at least adds a modicum of safety for using a controller charging connection. I'll queue it for the wiki with disclaimers.

That said, hopefully we can figure out how to assemble a really good breaker or the right fuse to protect equipment in a variety of situations (slow and fast limits).

I also like the idea of a fuse, but having it just covered by heatshrink and not solidly mounted to prevent abrasion makes me very nervous.

In my current installation, I have zip tied all cables (and the fuse holder). When I replace that low-temperature fuse holder with a fuse like Lenny recommended, it will still have heat shrink, and a wire covering, and zip ties. That should be enough abrasion protection I hope?

[Lenny]

I also like the idea of a fuse, but having it just covered by heatshrink and not solidly mounted to prevent abrasion makes me very nervous.

Well I think than you should get nervous about the stock charge fuse as well, because it's done the exact same way ;-) If it's properly fixed with zip ties, I don't see any issues arising.

[Shadow]

Well I think than you should get nervous about the stock charge fuse as well, because it's done the exact same way ;-) If it's properly fixed with zip ties, I don't see any issues arising.

(attached image) that fuse is covered in glue-lined heatshrink very securely.