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[TheRan]

I have that exact bike, although under a different brand. It's a good quality little bike and performs well with me on it at around 150 pounds (max recommended by that seller). I managed to get 17mph out of it on flat ground, it'll climb fairly well with a decent charge, and the run time isn't too bad. It does have actual suspension up front too, rear is a little soft and the preload adjustment is hard to reach so I haven't bothered with it. Adjustable speed and power is nice if you want to let a child ride it (throttle response is also adjustable but pointless slowing it down). It'll even wheelie with a bit of practice and a good tug.

I do want to add a second battery to it to extend the run time, there's plenty of space inside (might even be able to fit a third) and the seller I got it from sells spares at a not unreasonable £200. Unfortunately they're not selling at the moment due to the virus.

https://www.xtreme-toys.co.uk/spare-parts/spares-type/chargers-batteries/batteries/xtreme-electric-xtm-mx-pro-36v-1100w-lithium-replacement-battery.html

[JoelR]

Good to know they also make a better version of this.  I wouldn't have even suspected a solid front fork until my friend explained.

This is a promising idea.  I'd like to see more specs on the battery.  The 13.6Ah battery I added onto one of our Kubergs was only $150 shipped w/tax.

[TheRan]

Had a quick look and found this sticker on the top of the battery, haven't done any searching yet but it may be of use in finding a cheaper alternative. Also a photo of the battery compartment, didn't do any measuring to see if a second battery would fit flat on top of the original one but there's certainly enough room to put it in there at an angle.

[JoelR]

I did a bit of research and it appears these are a bit different bikes.  The Moto Tec 500 and 1000 w/lithium battery appear to have a battery like this that slides in/out the rear of the bike: https://davesbigtoysusa.com/mototec-dirt-bike-36v-lithium-battery-pack/

As shown on this site, the capacity is 8Ah (500w) or 10Ah (1000w) https://www.urbanscooters.com/products/mototec-36v-pro-electric-dirt-bike-1000w-lithium

Current draw is adjustable from 10A to 35A on the 1000w version.  A Kuberg needs a higher current battery (seems like 40A minimum).

I think a decent eBay lithium ion pack would be easier to find with the right specs and I've been very happy so far w/the one conversion I've done.

[TheRan]

I don't see how that type of battery pack would slide out of the bike, I think it would be too long to even fit inside it. I can even see the rubber hold down straps in one of the photos on the Walmart site.

I'm wondering if that battery is for some older model, the one you have experience with that had fake suspension up front. Possibly similar to this 24v Mototec that I found on Alibaba, the stanchions on the fork look suspiciously long.

[JoelR]

This battery looks promising:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/laudation-36V-20ah-1000W-E-bicycle-battery-10S6P-Built-in-Panasonic-NCR-18650BD/254369765764

Panasonic cells, 20Ah capacity, 40A rated discharge, 60A peak.  A key aspect to fit into the Kuberg frame in the lower battery position is the length and at 190mm, this is cutting it close (I'll confirm this later).  I first built a pack using plastic cell holders that space the cells a bit apart and a 10s6p pack _did_not_fit_.  When I revised the design to stagger the cells without cell holders (the old skool hot glue pack method) it *did* fit.

[MDW195]

I was able to fit 200*140*70mm in the bike, but I have it standing up, so I should think that the 190*120*70 should work...if you are willing to have it situated vertically.
I did add a plastic box for it to sit in that I lined with some thin foam. I will try to get a picture one of these days.

I really like the look of that MotoTec 1000W bike, looks like an easy bike to work on and even upgrade...like replacing the battery with something better...

[slan69]

Hello everyone, I have a cross hero kuberg, I'm also looking to switch to the lithium battery. the one I have installed goes into safety as soon as you force the engine.
I found this one may be that it will be more suitable.
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/32896713412.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.13ce3c00g65SZ9&mp=1

[JoelR]

Wow! Nice find on a Kuberg-specific pack!!  In my opinion, that pack is overkill and too expensive compared to this one:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/laudation-36V-20ah-1000W-E-bicycle-battery-10S6P-Built-in-Panasonic-NCR-18650BD/254369765764

A 10s6p 20Ah pack weighs under 7lb.  My son's 13.6Ah pack is under 5lbs and has *never* left us stranded; my son runs out of energy way before his bike does (so far).  This pack is over 12 lbs, cost nearly 2x more and has cells of unknown brand.

That said, I'd *love* to hear from someone who owns that T-shaped pack to see how it performs.

[JoelR]

I was able to fit 200*140*70mm in the bike, but I have it standing up, so I should think that the 190*120*70 should work...if you are willing to have it situated vertically.
I did add a plastic box for it to sit in that I lined with some thin foam. I will try to get a picture one of these days.

I really like the look of that MotoTec 1000W bike, looks like an easy bike to work on and even upgrade...like replacing the battery with something better...

I'd really like to see the pictures of your battery pack.  I'm obsessed (perhaps irrationally) with putting the new battery in the lowest possible position so I haven't considered any solution that uses the larger upper section.

[MDW195]

Forgive the unprofessional look, but the bike has sustained rollovers and the battery has not budged. The tray that I used had to be hacked in order to serve my purpose, but it holds it securely with no movement.

With that being said, the find above with the Kuberg specific fitment and huge capacity looks to be the ticket for this bike.
In case I did not mention, I am using the cycle satiator for charging duties, and the bike is typically charged back up in around an hour.

Question: Anyone have a recommendation for a voltage indicator that would be small and easy to install on this 36V bike? (max 42V)

[MDW195]

Another view

[JoelR]

Awesome, thank you for sharing!  That's a BIG battery! :-)  I'm curious, what is the cluster of wires on top of the battery?  I can't see enough to make it out but there's a lot going on there that I don't have on ours (2015 Cross and 2015 Trial E).

Nice choice on the Cycle Satiator for a charger.  I went with Luna's Advanced 36v charger primarily because it was 1/3 the price.  I like that Grin's Cycle Satiator is multi-purpose.

For a voltage meter, I have a NON-recommendation: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ST8MQVL
The above meter consistently read 2v low when I tried using it during a battery capacity test.  I've had decent luck with similar gauges so maybe I just got a dud or maybe had it wired up incorrectly (I'll double-check). 

Regarding my pack build, I learned that my friend w/the spot welder thinks he might have been exposed to COVID-19 so the thought of trying to build a battery wearing masks and gloves feels...yikes, not comfortable!

In better news, it appears the circuit board for the emergency charger will arrive today so I'll probably focus on testing that out soon.

[JoelR]

@MDW195 I'm curious if you had to modify the OEM battery mounting rails to get your battery to fit as you have shown?  Today I tried an experiment to fit my 10s6p pack vertically like yours and the space between the rails isn't wide enough--it's almost exactly the same size as the cells before welding, spacers, shrink wrap, etc.

Since my battery cells are currently hot-glued together (sort of, they're falling apart somewhat, maybe didn't use the right kind of glue sticks), to simplify alternative pack designs, dimensions, etc., I made a prototype pack using the spacers for a 10s6p pack but only added 5 cells and some masking tape to give it the right shape.  With this, I was able to quickly see that mounting the battery in the rear upper location has a few advantages:
1.  The battery is right in the middle of the wheelbase (about 21" from each axle to the battery)
2.  Access to this location is really, really easy.  Maybe even enough to allow for a hot-swap pack some day.
3.  Out of the choices of low & forward, high & forward, and high & rearward, the high & rearward position could give a slight advantage in rear traction which might help on occasions when the bike gets a little stuck pulling a hill, etc.

So, while I ponder my spot welder solution a bit more, I'm going to unglue the cells I have and go back to using the plastic spacers.

[JoelR]

Yesterday I reassembled the pack using cell spacers.  I like these way more than the hot glue.  That said, they're a bit of a pain to work with and they do break very easily so always buy extra (maybe 30% more than you need to play it safe).