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[Pard]

Anybody have a set of corsa brake componets they wish to sell?

Interested...

[Specter]

if you do get them you are going to love them, they'll not only stop you on a dime but pick it up too!!

seriously though these brakes are obsurdly powerful, if you grab a handfull of them like you do with the normal brakes on a ribelle / ego you'll end up kissing the windshield.

because everything is free floating, when i first started running them, occasionally you'd hear a soft click or scrape as one of the pads lightly rubbed when in a slow turn or something and it fell against the disc and id be like, what's that?  something hanging up?  nope perfectly normal.

aaron

[Pard]

if you do get them you are going to love them, they'll not only stop you on a dime but pick it up too!!

seriously though these brakes are obsurdly powerful, if you grab a handfull of them like you do with the normal brakes on a ribelle / ego you'll end up kissing the windshield.

because everything is free floating, when i first started running them, occasionally you'd hear a soft click or scrape as one of the pads lightly rubbed when in a slow turn or something and it fell against the disc and id be like, what's that?  something hanging up?  nope perfectly normal.

aaron

No doubt.

I may just replace the rotors with BrakeTech rotors. 

The 336mm corsa offering vs the 330mm stock or 330 mm BrakeTech is what I am most interested in sampling. 

The larger rotors offer about 2% mechanical advantage according to Grok:



To determine the mechanical advantage gained by a larger 336 mm dual front motorcycle rotor compared to a 330 mm rotor, we need to analyze how rotor size affects braking torque.

Here's a concise breakdown:

Key Concepts

Braking Torque: Torque is the rotational force applied to stop the wheel, calculated as:Torque=Force×Radius\text{Torque} = \text{Force} \times \text{Radius}\text{Torque} = \text{Force} \times \text{Radius}
where the force is applied by the brake caliper, and the radius is the effective radius of the rotor (distance from the wheel’s axle to the point where the brake pads apply force).


Effective Radius: For disc brakes, the effective radius is approximately half the rotor’s diameter, adjusted slightly for the brake pad’s contact point (not exactly at the outer edge).
Mechanical Advantage: A larger rotor increases the effective radius, which increases torque for the same caliper force, improving braking power.

AssumptionsBoth rotors are used with the same brake caliper and pad setup, so the clamping force remains constant.

The effective radius is roughly proportional to the rotor diameter. For simplicity, we’ll assume the effective radius is half the rotor diameter (though in practice, it’s slightly less due to pad placement).

Other factors like pad material, caliper design, and tire grip remain constant.

CalculationsRotor Diameters and Radii:330 mm rotor: Diameter = 330 mm, Radius = 165 mm (0.165 m).
336 mm rotor: Diameter = 336 mm, Radius = 168 mm (0.168 m).

Torque Ratio:Torque is proportional to the effective radius.

The ratio of torques is:Torque Ratio=Radius336Radius330=168165?1.01818\text{Torque Ratio} = \frac{\text{Radius}_{336}}{\text{Radius}_{330}} = \frac{168}{165} \approx 1.01818\text{Torque Ratio} = \frac{\text{Radius}_{336}}{\text{Radius}_{330}} = \frac{168}{165} \approx 1.01818

This means the 336 mm rotor provides about 1.818% more torque than the 330 mm rotor for the same caliper force.

Practical Impact:A 1.818% increase in torque translates to a slight improvement in braking force, assuming the tire grip and caliper force are not limiting factors.

For dual rotors, this advantage applies to both sides, but the percentage increase remains the same since both rotors scale identically.

Additional Considerations

Heat Dissipation: Larger rotors have more surface area (proportional to diameter squared, roughly 3.64% more for 336 mm vs. 330 mm), which can improve heat dissipation and reduce brake fade during heavy use.

Weight and Inertia: The 336 mm rotor is slightly heavier, increasing unsprung weight and rotational inertia, which could marginally affect acceleration and handling.

System Limitations: The actual braking improvement may be limited by tire grip, caliper force, or brake system design. If the smaller rotor already provides sufficient torque to lock the wheel, the larger rotor’s advantage may not be fully realized in practice.

Conclusion

The 336 mm rotor provides approximately 1.82% more braking torque than the 330 mm rotor due to the increased effective radius.

This is a modest gain, and the real-world benefit may be more noticeable in improved heat dissipation or sustained braking performance rather than a dramatic increase in stopping power.

For most riders, this difference is subtle unless paired with other upgrades (e.g., better pads or calipers) or used in high-performance scenarios like racing.If you want me to dig deeper into specific motorcycle models, riding conditions, or other factors (e.g., weight differences or cost), let me know!

[Specter]

i had one emergency stop on the bike, was on the track, wreck blew up in front of me, being i was noobish at the time, and seeing no way out and not in a position to try to wheelie over it and pray i just grabbed a full handfull of brakes.  my mindset was, try to get as slow as possible when i impact this mess and i may walk away from it. slammed me into my windshield, that big bike is slippery and i slid up and slapped, but it actually stopped the thing inches from the first part of the pileup, and thank god i didn't get collected.

a few other times i came into corners too hot and attempted a hard slowdown before realizing ,nope, queue up the green acres music, were going tundra whumping !!  slowing that fast absolutely stands your ass right back up, there is no turning!  after letting off the brakes oh they were pissed!! they were growling at me for a few seconds after release until things cooled a bit and they finally let totally loose.  they have a solid engagement, a good firm hold and remain solid all the way thru, they don't fade after a second or two like regular brakes do.  you'll have to get a bit used to them, although you should be doing this anyways, need a nice gentle lead in on them, fingertips will stop you very nicely.  jerking them will do bad things if you don't have abs.  just a little finger finesse gets them set and stopping firm .vs. the current ribelle brakes where you need to actually give them some pull if you are engaging in a harder stop.  Almost got myself in a pickle a time or two.  long track weekend running the dream machine, then get on the road bike, finger finesse the brakes to go, oh shit, this is the road bike as i grab a heftier handfull coming in fast to the stoplight.  i ended up putting these on both my bikes as i wanted to keep the same braking profile on both.  between this and the super hard regen, i can pretty much stop without brakes in most circumstances.

i would recommend putting the better racing fluid higher temp brake fluid in though, with the energy these things can peel off for you, don't want to risk flash boiling the fluid on a hard stop.  especially if you are on a track, because they ARE that much better, as you hone you skills, you can go a bit longer before having to hit the brakes, so slows are harder, more energy absorption, gotta have the stuff to handle that.  That's a low of thrust you are burning off with that big honking battery bank there.

aaron

[Pard]

Good stuff @Specter.  Appreciate it.

Posted this question over on FaceBook as well and Chris set me straight on several issues.

Looks like the Braketech rotors would be a more suitable choice.

[Specter]

need i think a specialized spacer too, so probably better with the braketechs

aaron