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[TNCreator]

Hi, I'll have to remove both wheels of the bike for tires change. Bike is a 2021 eva ribelle rs with big battery.
I have plenty of options to lift the bike but I don't know which is better :

Hydraulic scissor lift that worked wonders on a zero SR but I don't know if the bottom of the battery/inverter can handle all the weight of the eva
Standard rear wheel stand + small jack under the front of the battery
Swingarm pivot stand from abba + anything under the front of the battery, never tried this stand on the eva yet.

thanks for any input on this !

and bonus question, do I ned to remove the brake pads from the front calipers to remove them or is there enough room between disk and rim to remove them with the pads inside ?

[jotjotde]

TBH I would not trust lifting a 260 kg bike by jacking it up in the middle somehow.

Therefore I trust the old fashioned method, namely lifters for front and back. Works fine, I just used them last week for having the tires changed.

It is best practice to remove the brake caliper/s front and back before removing the wheels. It's just two screws per caliper and it makes work so much easier. I strongly recommend that.

Rear caliper is easy to remove. Front you need to incline them i.e. to remove them at an angle (angle the 'closed' rear side towards you, be brave!), the space between rotor and rim is very tight, but once you found out it is very easy. I fixed the removed calipers with with cable binders so they are out of the way.

[Demoni]

Use the rear stand to lift the rear wheel off the ground and the scissor jack under the battery to lift the front end. This method provides good stability vs just using the scissor lift.
It's how I lift every Energica in the shop.

You do not need to remove the pads to get the calipers off the wheels, there is just enough room between the rim and the rotor. You will need to slightly compress the pads so you can tilt the caliper slightly.

[Specter]

Do yourself a favor, if you are going to remove the brake calipers, real simple, two bolts and they literally turn / slide off the rotors, pads and all, remove the ABS sensor too,  one bolt, and move it out of the way.   This just helps keep it safe when putting it back together and you start fiddling with the wheel / alignment and bumping banging things around so it don't accidentally get pinched or damaged.

Aaron

[TNCreator]

thank you for all your valuable input !

[TNCreator]

that went pretty well if I dare say so myself.

only surprise was that all the wheel bearings are very stiff, like very hard to turn by hand. they are not crunchy or stuck tho.

[Richard230]

The stiff-feeling wheel bearing might be due to old stiff grease. Try cleaning the bearings thoroughly and then see how they feel.

[Phaedrus]

Generally one doesn't service a sealed wheel bearing.  By the time you pull them, and pop the seals to thoroughly clean, you've caused race and seal damage that only accelerates their wear.  If sealed bearings have a problem, it's better to just pull and replace.

[Specter]

sometimes when putting them back on, the pads may want to shift in the calipers a bit.  just use your finger to push between them in one corner while you work that corner onto the rotor, once you got a tiny side started, the rest will slide right back on.  if you accidentally grabbed the brake lever or something and compressed the calipers, a screwdriver in there side to side, not the tip, to press gently to force them apart and re spread the pads, re compress the pistons will be helpful.  This can also be helpful if you are changing pads and the new ones are thicker due to lack of wear.

Aaron

[Grauteufel]

Use the rear stand to lift the rear wheel off the ground and the scissor jack under the battery to lift the front end. This method provides good stability vs just using the scissor lift.
It's how I lift every Energica in the shop.

This is good the the experia as well?

[Specter]

i don't see why not.  jack it slowly and give a wiggle to test stability so if it's lobsided or off kilter you can lower back down right away w/o dropping the bike.

aaron

[smithy]

Use the rear stand to lift the rear wheel off the ground and the scissor jack under the battery to lift the front end. This method provides good stability vs just using the scissor lift.
It's how I lift every Energica in the shop.

This is good the the experia as well?

It works ok but you'll need to remove the belly pan....I use a front and rear paddock stand for the Experia. This allows for front & rear wheel removal, also forks, brakes etc...

Smithy.

[Specter]

you really can't beat a front and rear stand.  Lets you take off what you need and work on while the rest of the bike hangs out
even jacked by the battery if you start shaking things around for some reason you could upset it.  The  F / R stands you'd really have to try to tip it.

aaron

[jotjotde]

you really can't beat a front and rear stand.  Lets you take off what you need and work on while the rest of the bike hangs out
even jacked by the battery if you start shaking things around for some reason you could upset it.  The  F / R stands you'd really have to try to tip it.

aaron

Yeah, Aaron I fully agree!
BTW, removing the bellypan is cheating 

The only maintenance I can think of when suspending the bike from the belly is favorable is cleaning and (very thinly) re-greasing the fork tubes.
But until now I managed to live without it.

[Demoni]

You can jack the Experia up by the battery but please note the bottom of the battery is not level to the ground. I use 2 hockey pucks at the front of the battery to accommodate for it's angle when lifting.

Also be super careful of cheap lift stands they can flex and wobble a lot vs the quality units.