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Messages - herculeesjr

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1
See pictures and details on my Facebook Marketplace listing:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1087042615339309/

$9000 OBO, located outside Nashville, TN, USA.

2
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Cypher III+
« on: November 05, 2021, 01:46:59 AM »
All I can say is someone figured out how to bypass the Tesla "Range Upgrade" in-app purchase with a quick hack, so I can't wait to see the same thing happen to Zero.
App upgrades for software functionality like GPS, fine. But if I pay for the hardware already there and capable like heated grips and extended range then I'm going to use it, no additional cost to me.

3
@Herculeesjr

Lots of useful info in your test. Thank you for sharing!
Do you have an estimate of distance you have traveled after hitting 92v?

So from 0% on the dash, which equals about 5% on the BMS, I rode 10.5miles to a low of 90.911v. About 8 miles was 75mph on the interstate, about 2miles around 50-60mph, and half a mile at 30mph. It's difficult to say how far I went from 92v since voltage fluctuates, so figures based off percentage and me measuring routes on Google Maps are much more guaranteed.

4
I checked the Kill-A-Watt this morning and it showed 11.55kWh after a full charge. With the 2017 ZF13.0 battery nominal capacity being 11.4kWh I'd say my battery is pretty darn healthy.
As far as range I didn't record start and end mileage unfortunately since it was a few small trips throughout the week and then one big ride yesterday. I should be able to find out range ridden when I pull the logs though.

5
Out of boredom and a little bit of miscalculating remaining range on a ride today I did a pretty good test of voltage cutoff. I was able to do 75mph on the interstate down to about 93v (under load) and it started cutting back speed right before my exit to about 70-72mph and it had nothing left to go faster. About ten seconds of regen to a complete stop and from there I was able to do 55-60mph till around 92v (again under load) where it started severely cutting back once I hit 91.5v, at that point I was able to slowly accelerate from another red light to 40mph, then it cut me to 35mph, then 30mph. Another red light and I'm sitting around 92v waiting for it to turn green, I gently accelerate and the throttle gives out and the bike dies. I pull over and key cycle the bike then very gentle acceleration it maxes at about 15mph and around 91v I finally make it home about a mile later.
I'll pull logs after I get a full charge, I got my Kill-A-Watt meter hooked up to the charger, but I'd say right now 92v is about where the bike is now rather iffy to ride. And I know to do a bit better planning and research further if a charge station is no longer in service and to have backup stations in mind, which was my case today of not planning for a bad charge station.

6
Second picture with it sealed up, because annoying tiny file size limits.

7
A possibly final update, I used a Dremel and cut out the connector from the back of the onboard charger, trimmed the pins down, soldered a resistor to it, then weatherproofed it with a hot glue gun.

8
If you've seen my recent posts you know my onboard charger failed, I'm now fully relying on my Charge Tank to do any charging. With this I've lost the convenience of being able to just carry a standard C13 ~10ft cord to plug in wherever a 120v outlet is and now have to carry a ~25ft J1772 charge cable with me on longer trips. This cable is thick and long and takes up almost all space in either a saddlebag or top box, it also disconnects power when the bike is 100% charged which unless someone can correct me if I'm wrong, means I don't get cell balancing with the Charge Tank.
Cell balancing starts at around 90% SOC. So your cells will still get balanced just fine with the charge tank.


You can make your granny cable much shorter. See here.


-Don-  Reno, NV

Oh okay, I did not know it started around 90%. I thought it required a full charge and resting period before it could do cell balance, like the onboard charger does. Well that's good to know then that there's different methods with different chargers.

I've looked into modifying the EVSE to make the cord shorter, but I was interested in building my own in hopes of it being cheaper instead of spending another $150-$200 just to cut it open and shorten the cable. Basically leave one at home mounted to the wall, then a compact portable one for on the go.

9
No, the cell balancing happens immediately at 100%.  It should still be happening if you leave it connected for a little while at 100%.  That's part of the taper.

There's no reason the granny cable should shut off, it doesn't know what power the vehicle is at.  However, it would want to shut off for while you're plugging it in and out to reduce arcing, perhaps that's what you're noticing?

-Crissa

From my experience with the EVSE cable I bought (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HH4LJD2/) once the bike hits 100% charge it shuts off power to the bike, however I'm not sure if that's immediately at 100% or if cell balancing happens and then it shuts off hours later. From there you have to key the bike on to restart the charging process as the battery relay has now opened, not that I do that as it's already fully charged.
I know it's shut off as the battery relay is open, dash is completely off, and the display on the charger says "Ready" which is what it says when unplugged from the bike instead of "Charging/Charged".

10
If you've seen my recent posts you know my onboard charger failed, I'm now fully relying on my Charge Tank to do any charging. With this I've lost the convenience of being able to just carry a standard C13 ~10ft cord to plug in wherever a 120v outlet is and now have to carry a ~25ft J1772 charge cable with me on longer trips. This cable is thick and long and takes up almost all space in either a saddlebag or top box, it also disconnects power when the bike is 100% charged which unless someone can correct me if I'm wrong, means I don't get cell balancing with the Charge Tank. Maybe someone can correct me on that if I'm wrong? I just know the onboard charger charges the battery then a couple days later does cell balancing, so the Charge Tank is unable to do that because once at 100% the J1772 box shuts off power to the bike.
So here I have a question... there are guides out there on how to make an open source J1772 charger cable at whatever length you want and all remain 100% to J1772 spec meaning they cut power at 100% charge. I am wondering, and I know many of you won't like this question, if it would be feasible to create one that does not include a relay that disconnects power and instead has a 20a manually actuated power switch. I'd still obviously have circuitry that informs the bike it can charge up to 15a 120v, and this power would remain on till I manually flip the switch off, thus allowing the Charge Tank to remain on for cell balancing.
So could I make a slightly dumb (and yes I know more dangerous) J1772 charge cable that remains powered until I shut it off, or would this throw up an error or something due to J1772 standards? I'd want to make it as a J1772 connector - ~1ft cable - waterproof controller box with switch - ~1ft cable to C13 connector - however long C13 cord I need (I have a 3ft, 6ft, 10ft, and 25ft) for where I'll be. I look forward to hearing how doable this is or how wrong I am!

11
So I wouldn't really know how to calculate remaining range say from 95v to 90v. I'm sure there's some math that can be done by looking at the data sheet for the specific cells used by Zero, but I haven't looked into it or even thought of trying, yet. My idea was more of having the ZeroSpy app running in this emergency situation and watching the voltage as I ride, and by the time I'm down to let's say 92v I know I absolutely better find an outlet in the next half mile or find a safe place to pull over and call a tow.
From what research I have done it seems there's still multiple miles of city riding left at 95v, maybe even a bit of interstate riding, but no concrete answers on how much. Plus when you're looking at such a narrow band of voltage range compared to the entire pack charge range small variables like careful acceleration between person to person plus temperature and road incline all can have dramatic effects.

12
I'm definitely interested in what the minimum voltage is, which appears to be 88v, so that way I can get an estimate in my head how much range I have left before it's completely dead. Like how my truck can say "0 miles to E" on the dash but if I plug into the OBD port I can see the fuel guage is still reading 8% in the tank. It's a "reserve" that you don't want to use frequently, but is nice to know it's there and how much range it can provide in case of emergency.
It seems 92.4v is a safe low voltage, while 88v can be reached with very gentle acceleration.

13
I would not recommend adding more resistors, unless something is not working. I think one of those might be an output, and that follows different rules.

Instead of cutting it off, I'd see if I could find the connector the charge used, crimp a resistor into it(with wire and heatshrink).

Cutting it off would be a giant pain if you ever try to sell it or want to add an onboard charger again(you never know, Zero might release an upgraded charger that plugs in there).
I'm seeing this pop up in the logs whenever the bike is turned on. Which is further leading me to think I'm needing that second resistor installed for the charger enabled pin. Thoughts? The bike runs fine otherwise, just this shows up every time the key is turned on.
Code: [Select]
07006     05/02/2021 14:30:10   INFO:  Enabling External Chg 0 Charger 2   
 07007     05/02/2021 14:30:10   INFO:  Enabling External Chg 1 Charger 3

14
That seems to line up with the SOC page in the unofficial manual then. It states you can go down to roughly 88v before the bike absolutely quits, with 0% charge being at 92.4v. you were down below the "0%" where as I expected things can get tricky as it's more of a limp home mode.
I need to order a USB OBD adapter so I can see the BMS stats, just since I'm not actually having issues it hasn't been high priority.

15
Well with my battery pack down to 93-95v and a full overnight charge it took 9.87kWh from the outlet. So it sounds like my battery is pretty healthy if I were to assume there was even 0.2kWh left in it from me not riding it till it was completely dead. It still said I had 1.0miles left on the dash. I'm within 1kWh of your quoted 10.6kWh.

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