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2.  Thinkware sport m1 dash camera installed.   12V is wired to the factory harness via factory plugs (no splicing).  Energica uses weather proof connectors and the 12v is available on the 6pin connector.. This might be the same plug as the USB but I'm not using that.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FTRV25T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1  Still need to figure out where to mount the cameras but electrically, its done.

I see the pic with the "tank" removed - where exactly did you plug the connector for the 12V? I've been trying to wire a Garmin and can't seem to get it to work off the USB, even though it shows 12V with a multimeter...

Ok, so this may be a dumb question but is there a way to tell the battery to stop charging at 80% other than LPR mode? I ride almost every day but I come home (usually about 60%) and plug it into a 220 outlet to charge up full for the next day. I only need about 40% of the battery so I don't have any issues with only charging it to 80% but the only way I know how to do that is in LPR mode. And I don't feel like messing around with button presses and all that, especially at 0500 when I need to get out the door for work. So I only do LPR mode when I know I won't ride for more than four or five days.

If you press the starter button while the active key is within a meter or so, it will turn the bike on, disconnecting the charger.

I realize I am bringing up my own zombie post, but I wanted to update anyone who cares on what the problem was. This morning I finally had some time to get out to the garage to try again. Armed with a cheap multimeter and some time, I unhooked everything and started from scratch. I hooked the Garmin power cable to my truck and took a picture showing that it was getting 5V at the GPS. I hooked the 2-pin splitter to the motorcycle and hooked the 2-pin connected I got from Amazon and it showed 12V. I hooked the Garmin cable bare wires to the cheap Amazon connector, red-red/black-black, and got nothing. I took pictures of it all, getting ready to post a new topic on here in the general technical section. I came back into the house and my wife asked me what I was working on. Like the good teacher I am, I explained the whole problem to her, and showed her the photos I was going to post. Halfway through, when I showed her the photo of the 12V coming from the bike, she asked why it said -12V.

DUH.

So anyway, those cheap connectors I got from Amazon were almost all wired wrong. I wired it up black-red/red-black and hey, it worked! It was probably one of the simplest things ever to have checked, but I didn't have a multimeter to check until recently. I know Demoni mentioned that as a potential issue but I must have thought I'd checked it at one point and hadn't. Thankfully my wife was detached from the frustration I'd been having so she was able to see what should have been obvious to me...

That needs some clarification.


The "two bare wires"?  From the Garmin cable or another cable? If you mean the Garmin cable with both, and it works with the truck only, get yourself a cheap VOM and see what the voltage is under the load of the Garmin in both cases, the truck and the bike, measured right on the GPS wires.


-Don-
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Bare wires from the Garmin cable - the wires that I had connected to the battery on my old motorcycle. I touched them to the battery terminals on my truck and it got power, but when I twist them together with the red/black wires from a 2-pin and connect it to the 2-pin on the bike, it gets nothing.

I just ordered a cheap VOM from Amazon and it'll arrive before the weekend so I can troubleshoot some more. It's annoying to not have a GPS, but I know my way around most of the good roads around here so the only thing I'm missing out on is the random side roads that I usually like to travel when I'm out exploring. I still have a little bit of range anxiety and I don't like to be too far away from known distances to home/DCFC.

Just note the circuit is only active when the bike is on or is charging.

With just the bikes USB port plugged in is there a blue ring that lights up when the bike is turned on? It's possible you shorted something out or wired something backwards, this could cause the fuse to blow. Remove the right tank cover look for black rubber box (1"x3"), lift the lid and check fuse #6 (10A).

I would double check the polarity of the circuit with a multimeter. I found the connectors purchased on Amazon to have their connectors wired opposite the way the bikes connectors are pinned out.

1) The USB port still lights up so I know there's not a short before the 2-pin connector on the bike and I've got the bike on when I'm trying to get the Zumo to work. I'll check the polarity - i haven't tried that yet, but it's simply a matter of switching wires since I haven't soldered/shrinkwrapped them yet, until I know for sure that it'll work.

Garmin expects you to use the 12 volt cable to run the GPS. They assume when you're using a USB cable, you're trying to communicate with a computer. They often have resistors in their cables and other cables may not be compatible, depending on what you want to do. And the resistor values can change between models.

IMO, the best way to do this is to get to the 13V supply in your bike. Your 5VDC USB is most likely fed with 13V as mine is.

Then use the stock 12V Garmin automotive cable.

2) I think I'm tapping into the 13VDC before it gets to the USB. It's the 2-pin connector that the USB plugs into that I'm using. I'm using the cable that came with the Zumo that I had installed on my previous bike and it worked without issues. It's not a USB cable, it's the hardwire cable that's made to fit into the motorcycle mount.

OP - the Zumo-XT powers up fine from Ribelle's USB port, the problem lies in capacity to sustain backlight intensity for day use - for that you will want to tap into the fuse that serves USB / Heated Grips using Garmin DC adapter thingy that came w/ the XT.

Yes, that's the issue - I can use the USB, but it gets dark after a little while of riding (maybe it's related to the amount of charge left on the bike?) and it's a PITA to have to unplug the USB every time I stop somewhere instead of just grabbing it off the mount which I can do when it's hardwired. I can try tapping into the fuse - I remember seeing a thread somewhere that had an adapter or something to hook directly into the fuse box.

Looks like an awesome wheelie bar when it's folded up!