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The easiest route would be to use the stock BMS/battery shell and fit new cells, because, assuming the chemistry is similar, the BMS doesn't care if it's one brand of cell or another.

Second easiest would be to gut the zero electronics, and go direct to the motor controller from your own battery pack/BMS. Speedo etc could still work through the stock dash, but no battery life readings.

I'm looking for a bit of advice on an issue that has come up with my 2015 Zero S. These are the errors on the dash:
06 BMS Throttle Enable Wire Error
25 Contactor Open Warning
30 BMS Can Error
40 BMS Throttle En Wire Disable
48 SEVCON Startup Disable
49 Contactor Open Disable

In addition to those, the battery level lights are completely unlit, and the soft/hard reset buttons seem to do nothing.

Background:
I rode the bike to work and back last friday (12/06/24-Murican date), which is about a 40 mile round trip, and left the bike at about 50% SoC until Tuesday (12/10/24) night when I was going to plug it in for the next day. I plugged in my external charger (no internal charger present), then turned the key to wait for the contactor to switch and enable charging....but it never made the noise (Project binky anyone?)! Dash and lights etc all work.

I cycled the key/charger plug a couple times and then gave up. Later I checked a few things:
-There is no contactor click without the charger plugged in either. No normal operation of motor/throttle.
-Dash always reads 00% SoC
-Dash/lights etc work.
-BMS is not showing any SoC LEDs and the reset buttons seemingly do nothing.
-Blade fuses all present and checked ok
-Power fuses 1,2,3 checked ok.

Initially I was thinking it was a bad contactor, but BMS errors and lack of lit LEDs points me to a possible bad BMS. Yikes.

Thoughts?

I bought the sealight bulb and the 100w wedge LEDs for my 2015 S. Looks great!

I also replaced the license plate light (it's the same as the running light).

But a note on the headlight bulb retainer. Modification is necessary as noted before, but I just shortened the arc length of the feature that interferes with the sealight plate with a coarse file until the plate could rotate to the correct position. I also had to file the outside of those arcs a tad to get the two parts to mate fully.