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Messages - droffsite

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1
I would imagine a traction control fault would be logged (if there was one)

That's what I'm hoping for. I'd like to validate I didn't grab a handful of throttle (99% sure I didn't) if that's at all possible. There was nothing evident the next morning at the intersection where it happened (no big surprise, but had to check).

If it was some software fault that caused it, I'd sure like to know that. Hate to have that happen again.

2
I've been wondering if the traction control worked at all on the Zero.

I got the bike brand new. I took it for a spin off the showroom floor. Turned left (maybe I should just stop turning left?) onto a road and gave gentle throttle: the rear let loose, but got back under control. I attributed it to the traction control working; maybe it was just not freaking out on the throttle and the bike fixed itself?

Crap. I want it to work.

Do you know which level you had set when it spun up? Perhaps standard is a bit too generous.

3
That sounds terrible, I hope you will recover soon.  :(

I am not sure what exactly is logged, but perhaps some of these can help?
...

Thank you. Couple days of actually feeling my brain swollen, but I'm more or less back in fighting shape. With a limp for a few more days. Meh.

I'll definitely check those out when I get the bike back. Probably should've mentioned: it held up surprisingly well. Needs a new handlebar (the left grip snapped at the module that holds the blinker and mode button) and somehow managed to knock a few bits off the rear sprocket (not sure what angle that was). That was it for structural; the left side of the tank and the left side of the lowest fairing behind the front wheel are scraped (though, again, surprisingly little; testament to how fast I wasn't going, I guess), along with the aforementioned module.

4
A question for those who've interacted with whatever gets logged on these things.

I managed to high side (I think; concussions suck) last week turning out of work on my way home. Route I've taken a ton of times, nothing special. The last thing I recall is the rear end going loose, then coming back, and then I got ejected. The next hour after that is a blur. I got a concussion and my left heel hurts (maybe the bike came down on it?).

I was curious just thinking about it, then a witness told me "I heard the accident (particularly an unusual-to-me, brief, high-pitched whirring sound)". My thoughts after were how'd the rear end let that far go with normal throttle (dry road, ~40º F/5º C)? Did the traction control (standard) freak out and/or it just go WOT?

So, I'm wondering if there might be anything in onboard logs that would shed some light on what happened. Any insight appreciated.

5
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: SR/F Suspension Settings
« on: March 22, 2021, 09:10:28 PM »
Changed my settings to the sport configuration mentioned in the owner's manual. The rear feels better still, with a bit less dive in the front, though it's still not the greatest weather here for fully testing it.

7
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: SR/F Suspension Settings
« on: March 11, 2021, 01:40:40 AM »
My question is does anyone have any guidance on SR/F suspsension settings that worked well for them?  Anyone revalve or respring to get a more aggressive ride?  If so care to share any details?

I noticed a clunky feel to the back whenever going over anything not smooth. I looked in the manual for settings (page 6.22) and noted the default rear compression is quite a bit different from the sport setting (27 clicks vs. 15). I'm not tracking the bike, so I went for 20, I believe. I also needed to increase the pre-load a fair bit (despite being right around their target default weight).

Haven't touched the front (default and sport are pretty close to each other, and I don't really have an issue with how it feels).

The ride's definitely better, though I might still do some further tweaking.

8
The risers were marginally less expensive and didn't require taking all the bar bits off and putting them back on.

So, parsimony and laziness, I suppose.

9
The wires were just long enough. I had to convince the brake line to go around the top of the fork, but that was no big deal (and only because I wasn’t paying attention when I tightened the bar clamps).

I did put two new ties on each side.

10
Couple more pictures. Separate post due to attachment size limit.

11
Ordered the Rox 1 1/2" Barback Risers For 1 1/8" Bars risers (https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/rox-1-12-barback-risers-for-1-18-bars) and MRA Vario Touring screen with universal mount kit (http://www.accessoryinternational.com/product/mra-variotouringscreen-style-vtnb-windshield.html). No affiliation with either site or vendor, just trying to make getting part numbers easier.

Installation of the risers was easy. The windscreen wasn't bad, just requires a bit of tweaking to get things where I wanted them.

Risers:
  • Cut the two zip ties off the cables coming from the handlbars.
  • Remove the handlebar clamp mount bolts.
  • Move the handlebars out of the way.
  • Put the risers in place, ensuring they move the bar the direction you want (back in my case). Tighten to 19 lb·ft (26 Nm).
  • Put the bar in the risers. There are some lines on the bottom center of the bar that will help get it centered. Check the rotation (mine were a bit forward when I first put things back together).
  • Either reuse the stock handlebar clamp or the ones provided by Rox. I used the Rox clamps because I wanted to mount my Beeline in the center. Either way, tighten to 19 lb·ft (26 Nm).
Along with the lowered pegs (https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=10741.0), quite a bit more comfortable riding position. Still sporty but less cramped.


Windscreen:
  • Attach the arms to the windscreen taking care to orient the mount against the screen correctly (you'll want the hex bolt closer to the center: no room for the wrench on the other side). No torque specs provided, so I went with the 1 Nm/mm of fastener guideline from cycling (4 in this case). But only snug at this point.
  • Put the mounts on the bars. Not a lot of room to play with on stock bars; I did the best I could. 5 mm (5 Nm) in this case, but again, just snug for now.
  • Insert the arms into the mounts and wiggle away. The instructions suggest having the screen at the same angle as the forks. I think I'm in that ballpark. Just make sure the screen doesn't hit the little black stock fairing or the brake reservoir mount.
  • Use as many hands as you have to keep things in place while tightening the fasteners.
Wind blast to the chest at highway speeds is eliminated. More wind around the helmet now (I'm 6'0"), but not that bad. Still playing with the deflector to see what works best.

12
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Installed SR/F foot peg lowering kit
« on: December 30, 2020, 03:45:55 AM »
Just received the kit (ordered from https://www.zeromoc.com/product/srf-footpeg-lowering/, no affiliation). Installation was straightforward, with 2 hints.

Though they're only 20 mm lower, it's surprisingly (pleasantly) noticeable.

For each peg:
  • Remove the foot peg circlip on the bottom of the pins with snap-ring pliers.
  • Remove the pin taking care not to let the spring shoot across the garage.
  • Put a bit of grease on the contact points of the new pegs.
  • Replace the pin and spring. Hint 1: I fought with this for a bit, trying to use pliers to compress the spring, until I figure out that just dropping the spring into place in the peg, then pushing it into place was vastly simpler. Wiggle the pin though until it's in place.
  • Reinstall the circlip on the bottom. One of mine was mangled from the factory, so I used one provided in the kit. The other was fine. I reused both pins (though 2 were provided in the kit).

For the brake lever:
  • Remove the T50 pivot bolt.
  • Remove two T30 bolts holding the brake unit in place.
  • Remove the tension spring from behind the lever. It has bent ends, one of which goes into the lever, the other into a hole nearby on the bike.
  • Move the linkage around until you can remove the pin holding the cable in place. It has a small barb with a spring that holds it in (no circliips here).
  • Remove the metal bushing from the pivot point in the lever(assuming it hasn't fallen out already).
  • Remove the two plastic bushing halves from the pivot point in the lever. Hint 2: I used a small screwdriver inserted between the halves inside the pivot hole to drive each loose enough to get said screwdriver under the rims. Then they pried out easily enough.
  • Replace the plastic and metal bushings in the new lever.
  • Put a bit of grease on the linkage pin.
  • Replace the linkage pin.
  • Replace the tension spring.
  • Reinstall the T30 bolts. Torque to 9 lb·ft (12 Nm) with blue Loctite.
  • Reinstall the T50 bolt. Torque to 34 lb·ft (46 Nm) with blue Loctite.

13
Quote
A name of 3 characters didn’t work, 4 characters didn’t work, but 5 characters worked!

Bingo! I tried names over 5 characters, but they all had spaces in them (STREET 2, for example). STREET2, however, works.

So, 5+ characters, no spaces.

Thank you!

14
Quote
If you scroll to the bottom, is 'Demo Mode' selected, or not?

In the app, under Settings, at the top, Demo Mode is deselected (turned off). Not sure about that showing at the bottom anywhere (it's not under the ride modes list or in the settings for a mode).

15
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Next Gen app not saving settings for SR/F
« on: December 17, 2020, 11:47:19 PM »
I just got a 2021 SR/F last week. Took a couple days (and several emails) for Zero to get me registered, but that was finally sorted.

I've logged in with the Next Gen app and have paired with the bike: I can see battery stats, SoC, etc. So I think I'm good there.

If I go into Performance, I can see the modes listed, and I'm able to create new modes. This is where things go pear-shaped.

All new rides are created with the settings shown in the attachment (as well as Dark Green theme). I can move the sliders, change traction control, and pick different themes while in this view; however, Save and Update does neither. The new mode shows in the list of Inactive Custom Modes, but it has the original settings.

I've tried Edit Ride Mode while still in the inactive list, and I've tried Make Active followed by Edit Ride Mode while in the active mode slot. Changes aren't saved.

I've sent a video of what's going on to my dealer as well as Zero. Neither have an answer at this point.

Any experience with this here?

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