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I would add that when I bought Zero I was struck by the idea of simplicity that accompanied electric mobility, and the S / DS platforms still continue to have this approach today.

After 3 years, on the other hand, I see that on the SR platforms it becomes even complicated to understand how to configure a bike both for too many variants and for the Cipher Store, and it also becomes difficult for me to advertise for the brand to other motorcyclists. Being Italian, I have Energica around the corner, but I still prefer Zero.

I wonder, for example, why not use the new battery in the 17.3KWh version on all models, thus optimizing production costs.

Again, I wonder if you were to buy a base model and then unlock the extra battery after 2 years, isn't that the same as fitting a new power tank to a two year old battery with cell imbalance issues?

Sorry if maybe I say stupid

As I wrote in another post, every summer I ask myself the question of whether to switch from S to SR / F, and I regularly retrace my steps happy to stay at S. In this post I would like to write what would be the ideal configuration for a Zero (according to myself):

- Driving position and handling of the S
- Weight not exceeding 200 kg
- 6 KW base charging and glove compartment
- Double front disc
- No 12V battery
- Simplified software configuration as on S-DS, so no unnecessary frills
- Possibility of loading with C13, with Andersen and with Mennekes (I don't understand why the Andersen has disappeared on the SR platforms)

I bought my S in 2019, and after 3 years I find I find no reason to switch to SR / F, especially when I read about the problems that plague the new platform. The S (or DS) still seems to me today the most balanced and the most efficient of the models available.

To date the SR / F, although beautiful, for me represents only 40kg more to carry around, useless and often malfunctioning accessories and trappings, lower autonomy for the same battery compared to S.

I would be rather upset if a repair didn't come with any warranty.

I'm glad you were able to get back on the road!

Thanks Crissa. Unfortunately I had to pay for the replacement, even though Zero gave me a discount on the engine.

I would like to understand which hypothesis, in your opinion, is the most likely:

1) Failure to put into service at 600 miles led to engine failure
2) Incorrect dealer commissioning led to engine failure
3) Proper dealer commissioning triggered something that led to engine failure
4) Extreme bad luck

The maintenance was done on May 28th, I went home on the 29th and got back on the bike on June 3rd when the problem occurred.

I would also like to think of an unfortunate coincidence of the event but I find it hard to think that nothing happened for two years and immediately after the engine maintenance, as soon as I exceeded about 90 km / h, the problem occurred. Even only from a statistical point of view it would be a really curious coincidence.

I'd like to understand what the last lines of the maintenance logs mean where it seems to me there are anomalies (I am attaching the extract of the logs)

Unfortunately, several solutions are coming to mind if the problem does not resolve itself quickly, including completely abandoning the two wheels.
I would not be able to switch to a petrol bike, I liked my Zero and the dealer promptly offered me to trade it in to buy another one, but the prices offered are beyond all logic.

The disappointment is great

Thanks everyone for the answers.
I am a musician and I owe everything I know about Zero to this wonderful forum, which I will never stop thanking. But my knowledge is pretty basic.

The error that signals victor6.7y also appears in all the logs of the previous months, in which the bike was perfect.
About ten days before going to the dealer I sent him all the logs by email to understand that type of error. He handed them over to the Zero technicians and the answer was that if the bike went well, there was nothing to worry about.

Tomorrow I will take a van and take the bike back to the dealer, but I am very disheartened.

His responses, immediately after the disaster, were:

1) You made the firmware update wrong. The last update had to be done partially (without battery update I think), and this is a suggestion from the Zero technicians (...)

2) Try turning off and on again

3) Remove the belt and check the rotation of the rear wheel. It's definitely a bearing problem

4) (When I assumed that the motor bearing was broken) These motors have no bearings

The dealer from whom I bought the S (220km) in September 2020 knew nothing about the implementation. This is the second reseller (270km) who, at least on its site, is a Zero Authorized Technician.

I would like this forum to give me above all the hope of still being able to believe in Zero. Until last week I was enthusiastic, I was promoting electric mobility with all my friends, but now the temptation to give up everything is starting to rise. This thing has really demoralized me

I don't even know if, with a new calibration, the problem can be solved and if, in this case, I can still trust the bike.
I imagine that I will go through the replacement of the motor, and it must be considered that at the time of the break the warranty had expired for about 20 days!

Hello everybody. Unfortunately I find myself writing because of a serious problem and I was hoping I would never have to do it ...

This is the summary:

- Zero S 2019 11kw, 8000 km traveled

For two years the bike was perfect. Last week I decided to have the maintenance done by an official dealer who has just started their business in my region. I traveled 250km (on one charge!) At 70km / h on average and hit the dealership.

He made the following interventions:

- replacement of the belt (he felt he had to replace it because there were cuts)

- motor calibration with the bike connected to the PC (this was the intervention for which I decided to do maintenance)

- installation of led headlights (high / low beams and position light)

- cleaning

I went home (another 250 km always at 70 km / h on average, this time I did a 10% top-up because I had a headwind).

Yesterday I got back on the bike two days after that trip and disaster happened.

I drove an easy 8km at 80-90km / h, then I accelerated more vigorously and felt like I was losing power for a moment.
The bike then began to vibrate as if I had a puncture in the rear and I saw that the engine temperature was rising rapidly.
I have slowly managed to take it to a traditional mechanic who will keep it parked waiting for news.

- I downloaded the logs and sent them to the dealer. "Low chassis isolation" appears and a sudden rise in temperature from 50 ° to 82 ° within a minute (06718 and 06719 of the log)

- Errors 20-28-29 appear on the display
 
- The motorcycle starts up regularly and starts, but there is an intermittent red flash on the display.

- The rear wheel jerks both forward and backward and is like braking. Removing the belt the wheel turns normally, so I assume something has happened to the engine

I am desperate!

The idea of getting all that space is really interesting!

I was wondering if the material you used is near the top of the battery, and if it could get hot

@Gains: The glove box you created is really cool. I'd like to know what material you used and how did you make it so accurate