ElectricMotorcycleForum.com

To all: Once again this forum has been helpful to me, in ways you may not have considered. Your inputs have all helped my train of thought and helped me to a solution.
I put the bike back on the stand and loosened the wheel and loosened the adjusters so that I could completely re-do the tracking, and found the sweet spot which allowed me to shift the belt back and forth, with no more than a turn-and-a-half one way or the other, on the adjusters. I set the adjusters to give me the tracking I wanted, and the adjusters have the axle located within about a third of an increment on the scale marked on the swingarm. The belt is tracking and it is silent. The procedures work. Just gotta practice a bit, until it turns out.
My messes are cleared up, and now it is time to hang my bell. I'm good to go. Thank you all.

While it is the case that belt and pulley and drive sprocket wear together as an assembly, the bike has just over 3200 miles on it and the kind of wear we are talking about may be very small. This is still something to consider, and thank you.

In the matter of the wheel adjusters, they will not necessarily be even, on a Zero. The belt tracking procedure in the manual describes a deliberate difference between the left and right side adjusters, in order for the belt tracking to be shifted to the right or left as needed, much the same as the deliberate tilting of the upper bandsaw wheel to control the tracking of a bandsaw blade. Therefore, the rear wheel IS deliberately angled ever so slightly off of a right angle to its axis of rotation to achieve correct belt tracking on the pulley. (This is different from the wheel adjusters on the Milwaukee ICE bike I had. Accurate landmarks on both sides of that bike were provided to insure accurately matched adjusters. That belt was maybe 4 times as wide as the Zero belt, and the wheel pulley was flanged on both edges to keep the belt in place.)

In the matter of rear wheel runout, I made my observations at the wheel rim, where it meets the tire, and I believe the wheel runs true. As I said, I set up a heavy stand near the wheel pulley, to monitor the wobble of the pulley, and marked the pulley with chalk. There are 4 bolts holding the pulley to the wheel. The chalk mark was symmetrically opposite two adjacent bolts. Loosening the bolts opposite to these bolts and springing the pulley slightly, the pulley seemed to run true, visually. Radically improved over the previous condition. I made a pair of thin shim washers and put them in place and re-fastened the two bolts and ran the wheel again. I was satisfied with the run of the pulley, and proceeded to re-track the belt, per the manual instructions.

On tightening the axle bolt and running the wheel at about 10 mph (indicated) I hear the clicking sound, rising and falling in frequency as the wheel increases or decreases in speed. If it is the belt finding its new shape, I can live with that. I just need to know that I am not murdering a bearing in the wheel.

I intend to re-do the belt tracking adjustment again, to see what happens. I come from a heavy industry background, in which shimming a pulley is an acceptable fix to improve alignment, so I am comfortable with 2 shim washers on a 4 bolt pulley. My concern is the new noise. Thanks.

To all of you, thank you for your inputs and advice. The prudent thing for me to do is take off the tank plastics and eyeball this thing, to see what's what, just to make sure.
Good sens also tells me that I should see what kinds of projects my wife has for me, first...then to the bike.
Tom 2015SR

I'm 2nd or 3rd owner of a 2015 SR which I really like. I have bled brakes on an ICE bike but this one is different. Oil level was low on front brake, so I filled the reservoir and did what I thought was a bleeding routine, having added oil to the reservoir during the routine. So far, so good. Some time later, the reservoir was low. Refilled and the brake seemed good. Some time later, oil was low again. Underside of the bike is wet. Line from the hand lever disappears inside the body, so am assuming there is brake system hardware I cannot see.
Needing a clue, what to take apart first and what to watch out for and what to look for. Twenty years working on a potato-potato bike, and got no clues on this. I tried searching here, but apparently asking wrong questions.

arrgh! I removed the power tank plastic, and the space under it is full of empty! I could fit a six-pack of beer in there. There is a big fat cable with the end all taped up, and no battery. I do not doubt that some more taping is in order to insure no electrical Murphy should have some fun in there. The man I bought this from did not have the bike very long...some "yes, dear" issues, and he may not have been aware of a possible extra battery, just the vibe I got from him. Swell person, but...

I am in no position to spend the bux for a battery to fill the space, and a stock tank with a compartment in it is likely not cheap, either. Am happily married and intend to stay in that condition. Just gonna finish my beer and put the tank plastic back together and do some deep thinking.

I recently got a 2015 SR, and it is supposedly a 12.5kw machine. The tank plastic is a battery tank style, rather than tank bag style. Is this because there is an extra battery bit in this shell? How much extra power would it be? Am I even asking the right questions? It is my intention to remove this plastic, just to see what is under there. It has a small hole, about 1/8" in diameter and I want to explore what this is about. Am assuming I'll need to pull the seat, in order to remove the tank plastic. Will be exploring and learning as I go. Is the 12.5kw battery the stock unit, or does that value include whatever may include a battery tank?

Another little puzzle is the dashboard electronics. Using the manual I set the clock, 24 hour mode, and then set up to show theoretical range and trip mileage. Manual says the trip mileage will reset to zero automatically when the battery is recharged to 100%. Well, the clock seems to read whatever time it likes, and the trip mileage did not reset to zero. Am being careful about my charge level and mileage, to see if the predicted mileage will be a useful feature. I realize my mileage will depend on how I ride, and how healthy my battery is. Am assuming the battery has no issues, and my riding habits will dictate my driving radius. Do I have electronics issues?

Am new to this forum. Just recently bought a used 2015 Zero SR, and learning how to ride it. I've been a biker for awhile, and put 70,000 miles on my 1999 Harley FXDX, and wanting something different. I do not do long rides any more, and stick close to home, so this ride will be perfect for me. Theoretical range of about 120-150 in city and maybe half that or better on the highway, depending on how I ride, I guess. Living in northeastern Minnesota and the nearest dealer for this ride is about 200 miles away, so I will be doing my own wrenching, just like I did on the gasoline ride...except much less of it. Hooray for me. If I want to lift the bike to get it straight-up vertical for brakes and tires, a conventional center lift is out of the question. I do see a couple of very nice structurally solid tubular voids that go straight through the frame, that look like thy will lend themselves nicely to the task. While I can likely fabricobble something that will do the job, I figure I should see what has already been done, first. So, what do you do to lift a Zero SR?