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Thanks for all your responses. I've been a bit lazy and just concentrating on recovering. But I can now move my are quite well so I can start looking at it in more detail.

The rear light and number plate light just don't come on at all.

I took the seat off and checked all the fuses, 2 x 5amp's and 4 x 10 amps, all fine.

I checked to see if the wiring that runs between the fork leg and the headstock of the frame was damaged, I can't see any.

I checked the error codes on the dash, nothing! code 0 meaning everything is fine.....odd!

Another search online pointed me in the direction of an Anderson connector under the frame on the left side, ahead of the shock absbr. So my next mission is to cut the cable ties holding it in place, as some people have said that the ties are too tight and leave no room for any pull on the cable.

so, update so far is, IT STILL DON'T BLOODY WORK 

I'm open to any more suggestions.....I don't think taking it in to my supplier will help as they are still big ICE nuts so have no clue on Zero's.

Update soon.

Thank again.

I did a boo boo and dropped my Zero S, not very fast but I ripped the left front indicator off and left foot peg off.

The bike still works, but the front headlight, horn & rear break light are not working..........could this be just because the indicator is missing or perhaps a more sinister think going on?

I literally pulled away  (it was a bit cold and slippery) and the bike high sided me, and broke my collarbone.

Help from any electricians out there...

Thanks

The drop bars from Zero don't come with any instructions, but fortunately there is installation information available in the Unofficial Manual and other sources online.  The installation is fairly simple, but I thought I would provide some tips and watch-outs to help make the installation go smoothly for others.
 
Brian Rice, feel free to use any of this information to update the Wiki.
 
Before you start, make sure you have a 3mm hex socket (especially if you will be removing the skid plate) and the special tool for removing the factory plastic plugs that cover the threaded mounting inserts on the skid plate and frame.  I bought this one from Amazon and put tape around the base to help keep it from scratching – see photo.
 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0779KWP8J/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
If you don’t care about ruining the plugs then you could probably just grab them with a needle nose pliers and pull them out.  I plan on reusing the plugs for another project so I wanted to keep them intact.
 
The drop bar kit comes with a separate metal skid plate, which you may or may not have to use depending on your model.  If your bike already has the metal skid plate on it (like mine does) then you do not need to install the new one.  If you do need to replace it, this is where the 3mm hex socket comes in.  There are 8 button head screws attaching the skid plate, which are a real pain to remove if you try using an allen key.  There is also one attaching a ground wire to one of the threaded frame inserts on the left side (at least on my bike anyway).  Be careful, the screws are small so you don’t want to torque them down too much.
 
The kit also comes with two L brackets (left and right) that attach to the upper frame.  These L brackets are used for attaching the cross bar and upper mounting point of the drop bars.  While it is true they can only go on one way, I had to fuss with them for a while before I got it right.  Make sure the large hole in the bracket is facing forward and the leg on the bracket with the hole is on the outside of the frame – see photo.

Also note there is a small bracket welded to the left drop bar that I assumed was for relocating the horn.  That's what I used it for anyway.

The fender on my DSR came very close to hitting the cross bar so I bought some longer bolts and spacers at Home Depot to lower the fender to gain some additional clearance – see photo.
 
Well that’s about it.  Very easy install and drop bars lined up perfectly.  The finish is so so.  My drop bars came with a number of scratches on them, which I assume was from hitting against each other during packaging and shipping so the packaging could be better.  I touched them up with some satin black paint so it’s not so noticeable.

Wow, very thorough thanks. But wow they look really overkill. Don’t they have mushrooms like on standard bikes ? Surely there must be a point on the frame by the battery that could be used?

Has anyone got a nice pair fitted?

Bark busters are soo ugly and they’re the ones recommended by my Zero dealer. I only need them to take the wind chill off as I have heated grips.

Any recommendations?

Hi there, I'm a new Zero rider in the UK.

I've been riding bike for about 25 years and this is the first electric one. I'm loving it.

Cam I ask about Tires. I need a new set as I've worn them out. I've not enjoyed the Diabo Corsa 2's that it came with, well not for my riding at least.

I like to ride fast and throw it into corners, but they feel as if they haven't warmed up yet. I looked at the Pirelli city tyre, but they seem to really only be for bikes up to 300cc. Do we need to chose a harder compound tyre as the Zero is soo torque'y?

What have you got on yours?

UK S rider here, after 4K miles, I had the socket in the frame where you plug the charging cable into snap off.

Dealer got if changed under warranty. Scary thing to break, as you won't be able to charge your ride

Other than that and the horrible groaning noise when riding in the wet, bike is good. Hoping there is some reliability in the bike, as I came off a Honda Hornet 600, which got thrashed most it's life and NEVER put a foot wrong.

Now looking for a new set of tyres as I've blasted through the stock Diablo's....any recommendations?