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It seems the problem is solved!!!! (I hope permanently). Thanks to Don, again!

The terminal in the M2 controller output and the terminal of the cable to the motor were very dirty, because of the melting that I mentioned (mainly melted plastic). So I cleaned them as much as I could, replaced the bolt and washers and put all back together. I had a short ride today and so far, so good, any throttle failure at all. In the past, this ride length was more than enough to cause the problem.

I checked the controller top when I came back home and everything seemed ok. The M2 output was not hotter tan M1 or M3. Anyway, I’m going to look for a thermometer that can measure it and check it more specifically.

My hypothesis are (based on what Don said):

The bolt of the M2 output was loose, so the contact between it and the cable terminal was not optimal. The less surface of contact led to a rise in temperature, producing melting of metal from the bolt washers and plastic from the controller top. That led to less surface of contact and increased temperature and so on…
Since the controller and the motor temperatures are ok, there was no error code in the dashboard (once again, I hope).

Any ideas of the things mentioned above of about precautions to follow from this point would be appreciated

Long life to electric bikes!

Thanks a lot, Don.

I cleaned the fins of the controller. Also checked the bolts in the top of the controller and found that the M2 is partially melted, and also a little of the controller top. Almost sure this is the source of the overheating error from the logs.

I read in the unofficial zero manual that there can be short cuts between the M terminals in the controller and the aluminum plate of it because of isolation faults. I also read a method to check this up, testing the continuity between the terminals and the heatsink plate.

Do you think is a good idea to do so? Or maybe the controller is completely defective by this time and should be replaced? Or maybe the problem is the motor.

I attached the photos of how the controller looks.
Thanks a lot for your help.

This is what I have found about error 0x4602:

0x4602 Device too hot The controller (or motor?) is too hot; reduce power to cool it down; check cooling fin bracket

Any idea of what to do next??

Thanks

Hi Don. Thanks for the info, and even more for the advice. Won't ride the bike until it's fixed. I will check the logs and stuff next week and let you guys know.

*** Throttle loss*** Zero S 2013
Hi friends, hope you are all right. I’m asking for your help, please.

I’m experiencing a loss of throttle in the middle of any ride, suddenly. Sometimes I can still accelerate slowly and other times I can’t accelerate at all. The bike reduces its velocity, then throttle comes back, sometimes with full power and sometimes with little power. Regen is also lost when throttle disappears.

There is not any error code at all in the dash and the green light is always on.

This does not happen at the beginning of the ride. It happens 5 to 10 minutes after the start.

I will retrieve the logs and see if I can find anything there.
Thanks a lot! Have safe and fun rides!

I jumped the pins with the bike on and the throttle stopped working (the usual sound when pulling the throttle stopped).

What called my attention is that I measured the Ohms with the bike on (keyed on) and had totally different numbers. I did this measures in the cables after the throttle plug. Between pins 1 and 2 is still 0.02 KOmhs but between pins 1 and 3 I had different KOmhs from -14 to 7, with important differences from one reading to the next. In fact, changing the multimeter to volts, it was 10.7 volts between pins 1 and 3 with the throttle connected and 12 volts disconnect.

I think this is not ok but maybe this is the right functionality when the bike is on, honestly I don’t know. I suppose the KOhms should be the same trough the cables and so all the way to the controller. Again, I’m asking for your help. 

Quote from: Gains on July 31, 2020, 11:19:24 PM

The 2013 models have the Magura throttles with a resistor ,so usuali every now and than (15000  km 20000 km ) they start to fail and need to be replaced.

The later models have other throttles ,with a hall sensor.

then it will be easy to measure it, and if it's showing more than 0 ohms, it is bad. The MBB won't activate the bike, if the throttle isn't at zero ohms. It's a 5Kohms variable resistor, that should mesure 0 to 5000 ohms. I replaced two of them on my 2010 Zero S in only 4000 miles.

Thanks Gains and TEV.
I measured the Ohms in the throttle. It’s 5.3 KOhms between pins 1 and 3 and also between pins 2 and 3. Between pins 1 and 2 there’s only 0.02 KOhms. That’s something near 0 and 5 but do you know if that’s ok???
Also, is there a chance to connect a resistor or something instead of the throttle and test if it works before replacing it???

Thanks again, guys

Update: I checked again and seems fine since the Omhs decrease when I pull the throttle from 5.3 K to almost zero and increase between the pins where the Ohms were low. So it seems the source of the problem is another one.

Still waiting for Zero email.

Thanks, TheRan.
I have tried to find more information in order to know if it is hardware or software issue. I found some posts about a "glitch" that ocurred to 2012 and 2013 motorcycles with power to motor cutoffs but I do not know if it is my same problem. The fix in some cases was firmware update to the controller. I will call zero to see If they can help because I don't have a dealer in my country anymore. Thanks again, man.