ElectricMotorcycleForum.com

Just got headlamp off. Phew!  what a tight fit.

Back of headlamp says:

12V 1.6W (PL)
12V 14.7W (LB)
12V 20.2W (HB)
Which all seems very low.

Ill measure them tomorrow. Thanks fro advice on meter. pete

Hi everyone.  Iv been getting to grips with my SR/F now and starting to explore how I want to change the controls.

And then I noticed that the emergency hazard switch on the LH bar no longer works. Indicators are fine. Earlier when I got he bike, riding in the wet I can remember the flashers coming on without me doing anything, but then the bike got transported back to the Netherlands from the UK and all the wiring rebuilt. 

So I assume that the issue was water in the switch or wiring and wondering if this now has an open circuit failure.  My question is,  how can I test that its the switch rather than the main computer board?  I can see two ways forward:
1) strip the switch off the handle bar and short out the contacts to test the switch.
2) operate the switch and then download the logs and get someone to help me read it.

Any  suggestions gratefully received.

PS  slightly off topic perhaps, but I've got Remmie's excellent extension for the cruise control switch, which makes the operation considerably less dangerous.  If I could trace the wiring, I could swap the hazard indicator switch with the cruise control - much more sensible arrangement.  Anybody got an idea on how to do this  - physically or in software?

good riding all. pete

I think on my SR you pulled on the mirror while spinning it to tighten the ball joint.

Brilliant!  Thank you!! just tried it and it works.

Now why didnt I think of that!

Thanks all.

pete

Wow, lots of good stuff:
 small cover for type 2 plug means can be left plugged in to bike.
 smart use of 2 1.5mm2 cores to allow rating at 32A.

From these two, I can now see how to perhaps get both 16A and type2 plug under seat.  Haven't done it yet, but the attached is my proposal, based on remmies wiring schematics.

Next step is to get the cover/lid printed and then probably modified to allow both cables in and enough room for EVracing PWM module.

Thanks everyone.  I've now made a homemade cable that fits under the seats (with the "silly tray" removed).  The PMW chip and 12V supply/relay came from evracing.cz, and its pretty simple to build the circuitry into the type 2 socket. I left mine permanently at 10A with a resistor. 

Anyone want to buy a little used UK Zero charge lead at 50% list?

I've also got a 1.5m cable from Khons for 3 phase charging when a cable isn't provided. 10kW indicated charge as its the 16A (2.5mm2) lighter version. Sadly cant get that under the seat too, although I was working on a way to dump both type 2 sockets and permanently wire them in, but I've discarded that, at least until the warranty has run out a bit further...

Once again, thanks to you all.

Hi Skas, sounds a pain.
I've a SRF and its taken me awhile to get round the charging cable stuff.

I, like you, initially used the zero home cable and the tethered motorway chargers in the UK.  If these aren't working you need to have your bike checked over: I've used the Ecotricty ones along the M5 and they work fine. (I'm in Plymouth) Ive premium and they charge at 6kW, then I added a rapid charger and they now charge at 12 KW - brilliant.

Ive also got a short 1.5m cable from Khons so I can use the local cable-less chargers around the place, mostly supermarkets etc. I got a 16A as the 32A one is horrendously unwieldy, so I only get 10kW not 12, but thats fine. Hassle having to carry the whole lot, but thats a different story...

Bottom line: check your bike at the dealers, who should have a 3 phase charger.

Thanks Remmie, Ive got the circuitry, was missing the overview, which you have kindly provided.
Ill post here when Ive worked out how to do a twin cable

Couldn't do all this without you guys in the forum. Thanks.