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Carbon wheels sound good until you do your research.  Good if you're a professional racer with a sponsor who'll pay for them and replace them after "X" number of races.  BAD for a street rider on a budget who has to deal with typical urban and suburban roads with their pot holes, bumps and other debris.  Even worse if you beat on them off-road...

I've definitely done research; considered the change to my Oz Racing wheels on my Aprilia. I've not heard of people having to swap out just because of X races or hitting a pot hole. Feel like I've actually read quite the opposite. I can't be bothered to go grabbing links though since I didn't specify I'm interested in low cost wheels to begin with. I specifically called out a known wheel manufacturer that costs at least $1,500 per wheel. Good custom wheels aren't cheap. My set of Oz Racing wheels are almost 20 years old and still worth $800 easy, $1000 if you wait.

So, again, just looking for information regarding people on their Zero 2013+ that have utilized custom wheels. I don't care about the budget.

https://home.hasslers.net/zerologparser/logs/538SDDZ6XKCG10821_BmsD0_2019-12-15.txt
https://home.hasslers.net/zerologparser/logs/538SDDZ6XKCG10821_MbbD_2019-12-15.txt

I've been trying to determine why I get thermal throttle indicator so quickly and thermal throttling so easily. I've been perusing the logs and keep checking back randomly to try to make sense of things. I figured I'd just post here in case anyone was bored and knew how to read through these more easily than I.

I do push the bike hard, but I'm pretty sure the bike shouldn't be getting anywhere near its max thermal temperatures so quickly. If it truly is, any pro-tips on how to get some better air flow?

'19 DSR
-> OEM 6kW Charge Tank
-> Rear and side bars
-> Cryca handguards
-> Drop bars
-> Rain guard
-> 16" Madstad windshield

I'm usually 170 - 190 lbs and 32" inseam.

4,400 miles since August 23rd.

Three crashes; two on the road, and one off-road.
-> Only one of them worth mentioning; one of the on-road crashes was at 10am on a cool day as I was turning off the road from my house onto the main street. I lost traction as my back tire (I assume) went over on the yellow a bit and (I assume) I accidentally gave more throttle. Regardless, all I knew was that I was immediately on the road and rolling down it half way into turning on the road. I had zero time to account for what happened. Things injured: plastic cover road rash on right side Cryca hand-guard, rear brake pedal, under-side of right foot peg, and minor scratches on the lower front right of the chassis closest to the tire (and the laptop in my backpack that decided to break itself under my right shoulder blade which still hurts over a month later . . .)


Coldest day I've been out riding was upper 30's; the bike's guesstimate of range is definitely 10 miles less than it normally is on those days. I've also been riding the bike significantly harder lately, though.

Re: riding the bike significantly harder:
-> always hitting the 106mph limit every ride
--> not uncommon for me to hit thermal throttling when doing 95+ for a little while even in the 30/40's*F
-> cornering at 90mph sometimes (in wide corners)
-> really need to swap in new set of tires (staying with MT-60's) already but haven't (will this week probably)

I always ride Custom with all settings at their maximum. My bike is always out under my car port in the weather and uncovered.

The bike is addicting! The only other upgrades that keep coming to my mind are that I'd probably like to upgrade to Brembo brakes and move the rear brake to a left hand brake instead for more fine control to use in corners. The bike can really lean crazy low in some corners; I'm yet to find (or push it to) its limit and low side in one.

If you put that charger in a box on the tail, you will break the bolts that hold the top rack onto the tail subframe. I've done it with an Elcon 2500 which weighs about the same (and performs much worse for that mass). Even before or if you never break those bolts, handling will suffer pretty badly by putting a large mass on the end of a lever that you swing around as you turn.

This is what I mean about this charger size: it's too big and bulky to place in any reasonable location on a Zero bike (except possibly the SR/F along the trellis tubes, but I'd still rather have flatter smaller chargers one-per-side on that bike).

Yeah. Seems like all their offerings that we want are rather heavy. I've still went ahead with e-mailing them to see if they have some spare time to deal with me.

Elcon PFC 2500  is listed net weight 15.6lb. The Elcon 3.3kW UHF CAN bus charger is listed weight 8.6lb (without heatsink or fan attached). The Elcon 6.6kW UHF CAN bus charger is listed as weight 17.1lb (without heatsink or fan attached).

However a heavy load like that should be OK if mounted to the passenger seat in some sort of homemade container.

Interesting suggestion. Do you think one could have this container mounted both to the passenger seat and stretching across back to the tail ?

This still for sale? I assume it'd be compatible with 2019 14.4 models? Also, you willing to part out the chargers or requiring all 3 to be sold? I'm not sure if my bike would allow me to charge @ 16kW (think it's past 1C?)

Anyone have the details on how to properly order this or 3.3kWx2 and instructions on how to hook everything up? I keep doing searches and looking all around but am not finding enough information to help get myself confident in making decisions on charging.

I have a 2019 Zero DSR with an OEM 6kW charge tank and a stock lower OEM charger.

http://www.evcomponents.com/elcon-tc-hk-j-6600w-charger.html