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Electric Motorcycle Forum is live!
It's the brain that all these connect to that makes it tricky. Not that it's terribly difficult to reverse engineer it, but it would be time consuming. Maybe it would be simplest to replace it with some cheap Chinese general purpose controller.
Wonder which I'll see on the road first... a Damon, or a Fuell Fllow...
Sorry to say, but if you need an manual to do such a simple job, you should yourself if you could not better leave it so someone else, who knows what to do.
Although the process of rear wheel removal on Energica bikes is the same as most every other motorcycle with a 2 sided swingarm there are things that will make the process easier.
If you have a Pitbull rear stand I can not recommend their tire wedge accessory enough.
https://www.pit-bull.com/pit-crew-tire-wedge-f0102-000
It makes reinstallation of the rear wheel so much easier. Alternatively a 10" piece or 2x4 cut at a 20-30* angle will provide a similar benefit.
I always remove the rear caliper and speed sensor first, this reduces the chance the wheel will get bound up.
After you remove the axle nut and washer the right side adjuster should be loose enough to pull off by hand. If it is not use a 13mm wrench to back the chain tension adjusters off a few turns.
Tap the axle with a soft mallet, then use the handle side to push the axle the rest of the way through the swingarm slot.
Adjust the Pitbull wedge, block of wood or use your foot to support the wheel.
Pull the axle out of the left side of the swingarm and remove the chain adjuster block.
Roll the wheel forward 1-2" allowing enough chain slack to disengage the chain from the rear sprocket. Lift the chain off the sprocket and rest it on the end of the swingarm (use a rag to protect the finish).
Roll the wheel backwards enough to clear the caliper support bracket. Remove the bracket, this provides enough clearance to slightly pivot the wheel towards the right side of the bike.
Remove the rear wheel. If you try to remove the wheel without doing this the license plate bracket will cause interference.
When it comes to installation use the same pivot procedure by in reverse. Do make sure the sprocket carrier and the wheel spacer on the right side are fully seated, if they are not the wheel will not go back in.
Once the wheel is clear of the license plate bracket reinstall the caliper bracket.
From this point on it is important to keep the wheel perpendicular to the swingarm. There are spacers on the wheel that fit perfectly into the swingarm opening, if the wheel is twisted it will bind up.
Pay special attention to the bolt heads of the rear rotor, if they are in the wrong position or if the wheel is too high or too low they will interfere with the caliper bracket.
You may need to turn the wheel slightly to allow the rotor bolts to clear the caliper bracket. This is where having something to support the wheel in position is important. Trying to support the wheel off the ground by hand and make fine adjustments can quickly lead to frustration.
Roll the wheel forward enough to allow you to reinstall the chain on the rear sprocket. Lift the chain up when you are doing this as it can get pinched between the wheel and chain guard.
Once the chain is back on the sprocket pull the wheel back slightly, reinstall the left side adjuster and verify the wheel is positioned so you can install the axle through the adjuster, swingarm and sprocket carrier.
*If your axle shaft is dry make sure to apply a thin coating of waterproof grease
Gently tap the axle into place. I normally use the palm of my hand for this, a mallet will also work. This should not require much force. If the axle is not sliding freely loosen the left chain adjuster a few turns as it may be binding.
You will need to position the caliper bracket so that it is in line with the wheel and the opening on the right side of the swingarm to allow the axle to pass through.
The tail end of the axle has 2 flats, one of these needs to index with the left chain adjuster before the axle will fully slide through.
Reinstall the right side chain adjuster washer and nut. *If the threads are dry apply some anti seize.
Adjust the chain, torque the axle nut to 70Nm, caliper bolts 25Nm, ABS sensor 8Nm
With a bit of practice you can do a rear wheel swap in ~10 minutes.
Sorry to say, but if you need an manual to do such a simple job, you should yourself if you could not better leave it so someone else, who knows what to do.
How did the pickup go, Apollo?? What's the bike like to ride long distances? We're dying to know how your trip home went!Picked up the bike! Richard from Lightning went with me to the DMV for the California new vehicle inspection and registration. No issues. Received my Plate and Tags. Richard mounted them on the bike for me and I was off to San Diego. It was about a 400 mile (644km) ride, so I decided to break it in half. The nice folks at Lightning asked me to check in with them at each charging stop to ensure charging and batteries were behaving properly.
Everything went well except it started getting colder than I expected. At my last charging stop, it was 37F (3C) outside. I only brought my summer riding gloves so my fingers started complaining loudly.
The next morning I hopped on the bike and continued south. Immediately hit a big hill named the Grapevine just north of LA. The bike has so much power it was easy to look around and wonder why everyone was going so slow.
The next stop was in Pasadena for a charge. Grabbed some Starbucks and a muffin and headed back on the road. A fair bit of traffic for a Saturday afternoon, but I used the carpool lanes and managed an average of 60mph (96kph) most of the time. Once I got out of LA and started the trip down to San Diego, the speeds picked up to a 75mph (120kph) average.
Made it home just in time for Burgendy Carne Asada marinade tacos with avocados from our trees. A nice warm shower and time to relax. Made sure the bike was pugged in should I decide for a quick ride in our local hills come morning time.
