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The color of red has changed over the years.  I ordered some replacement parts in red in 2019 and they did not match the 2014 NOS part I had in the garage.  When I painted to match my 2014 SR, I contacted Zero and they provided me with the paint code.

Remmie,  Fascinating!  I'm interested in learning more about your set-up.  Do you have a write-up on the forum?  What did you use for charge controller and how did you go about programming it to play nice with the Zero?  I don't know much about these things, but am eager to learn more now that I have my platform to tinker with.

You died on this bike?  Details plz.

Rain check for the title inspection is on the 11th, but I've had it out for a few quick "test runs". 

@talon what color is your bike?  I might like a second tail section to play with modifying.

I think you're right that Rich is going to drive up the market for these drivetrains. The seller of this bike also purchased at auction.  I think he had  3200 in it, plus he had to pay tax to transfer the title to me.  He took a loss, but I had my price and he didn't have to take if if he didn't want to.


Today's trip was postponed due to heavy rain and storms... Hopefully will be rescheduled soon.

Hey Pyromancy, nice work! I had done this exact same thing in October 2017 but chickened out. I bought a wrecked 2016 SR with similar damage for a STEAL (with the intent on repairing) but ended up selling the battery for a considerable sum as I had also bought a truck at that auction and was a bit worried at all the money flying out the door on my trip across the country to get it. Even contacted the former owner afterwards to make sure he was okay (found a receipt in tankbag). Thanks to the unofficial manual and a ton of research I felt comfortable risking any of this in the first place.

Glad to see someone actually doing it and breathing new life into these parts.

Hey Talon, Well I hope your truck worked out OK.  What did you get your wrecked SR for? I paid 2300 for this one.  2016 would have been nice, I do like the upgraded brakes and shocks.  Do you still have parts?

You got yourself a lazy locksmith 

I spend about 40 minutes swapping the pins over this evening with good results.  I've never attempted lock work before, but I like to tinker. 

Here's a description:


From the back side, with the lock open, depress the spring loaded tab with a small, thing screwdriver and push the cylinder out of the front side of the housing.  On the tank compartment, it helps to have the lock off the lid, and the rubber cap and cosmetic plastic ring off first.  The plastic ring will prevent the lock from coming out of the housing.

Remove the key, and then pry up/ out the 2 crimps on either side of the face of the lock.  Be careful not to mar the edges of the face too much, as it fits snugly into the housing collar and needs to both fit back in and rotate in the shoulder of the lock housing.


Use care when removing the face of the lock as there are 2 springs holding the red key-hole cover closed. These are NOT captive springs.


Under that cover is a brass pin that retains all of the pins and their respective springs (also not captive).  Insert the key to retain all pins and springs, then tap the lock face down to free the retaining pin.


Holding cylinder in an orientation with the pins facing up, cover them with your finger and remove the key.  If you don't hold them down, they may spring out.  Keeping the orientation of the pin slots facing up, use tweezers to remove each pin, keeping track of their order.


Reassemble in reverse order, placing new pins in each slot, then  replace the retaining pin, then the key-hole cover.  Use a pin drift or punch and a hammer to crimp the face back on to the housing.  Be sure the slot is oriented precisely.  I hit mine at a 45 degree angle to start the bend, and a second strike straight down to tighten the fit.  It worked very well.  If your face was bent or flared out during removal, re-shape the edge with careful hammer work.


This shows the pins out of the first cylinder, and the difference between the cylinder with the cam for the helmet lock (2014), and the one with the screw mount for locking tab (locking tank).

Since I rebuilt a 2014 SR, the original tank was the zipper pouch and the new tank is keyed to a different code than the ignition.

Does any one know of a retailer where I could order the Zadi lock barrel to the code to match the original?

Edit: I changed the title of this thread from "Zadi Lock Source?"  because it turned into a DIY project swapping over the pins.  Write up below: