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Messages - gonespa

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1
Yes, same issue on my app. The bike does of course consume more power during the charge and the charger is pretty efficient so it's not going to waste.

If you want to know exactly how much it's consuming put in a Cycle Analyst.

I was wondering if this is related to the household voltage (in my case 220v) versus bike battery voltage (in the low end of the 100)?. Or should I go back to school?. I would prefer an Ah value anyway.

2
Yikes, sounds very unnerving at any speed. You weren't clear on whether the plastic bent, the braces bent, or the screws went missing.

Once I was on my Super Tenere on a dirt road in the middle of nowhere and thought I saw the windshield move funny. I stopped and found that all four sets of thumbscrews and washers and mounting bolts were completely missing. The windshield was just resting lightly on the mounting brackets! I duct taped it back on to finish the adventure. Later I used wing nuts and tightened them with vice grips. Not easily adjustable anymore, but who ever needs to adjust it anyway?

It was me the one who broke the plastic receptacle where the ball joint is inserted. Since the windshield moved, I kept tightening the screws until that plastic piece failed. Nothing broke or was bent by the wind but by my own hand...

3
Hi,

I think I read a post related to this, but since I am unable to find it I am opening a new one.

For the sake of curiosity I did a small test to compare what the Zero App says about the consumed KWh in a trip versus how much power the charger takes in order to get the battery SoC back to 100%.

I am surprised to find that, for a 70km trip the app says the bike consumed 3,63Kwh (from 100% to 52% SoC). I then connected the onboard charger to get it back to 100%, and I found that the Power consumed was of 6,1 Kwh. How is that possible? I assume the App is not giving the correct information since my battery has about 11,6Kwh of usable energy (it is the 13Kwh model) so the numbers should be closer to 6,1kwh than to 3,63Khw, isn´t it?.

Is this a known issue?

4
I've found that the MRA screens that Zero sells have stalks that are too low to mount around the center of pressure (CP) for the windshield, which is why this can happen.

One thing you can do is acquire a longer set of MRA stalks that go around the handlebars (they all match this mount) and change the angle of the mount to balance the windscreen forces better.

You can also try to brace the windscreen at a third point (or second pair of points) near the headlamp. A little metal bracket from the headlamp mount bolts up to the screen with a little clip or such might do the trick.

NOTE: If you drill through the windscreen to make a mount point, use drill bits meant for plastic so they won't catch and crack the plastic.

PS of course this'll be on the wiki...

So, I am another user affected by the flipping of the MRA touring windscreen. The thing is that my windscreen kept flipping at 130/140+ Km/h speeds, mainly when combined with windy days. So I kept tightening the screws that fixes the screen in its position, until I overtightened and broke the plastic holding the joints. Additionaly, I no longer can get the stalks into their aluminium holder, the holes are closed enought so that the stalks no longer fit in there  :'(

I am now in the process of deciding what to do: buy a replacement from MRA (new stalks, joints and the aluminium pieces holding all to the hadlebar, buy the longer set you refer to fixed to the handlebar or buy a new windshield.

If I opt for the handlebar mounted set, i wonder how would that change the center of presure?. By positioning the stalks as parallel to the ground as possible? Wouldn´t that set it so low that it would interfere with the front light?

By the way, as an alternative, I was thinking about two Puig windscreens, the "Bat" (more protection), and the "Rafale" (I think it looks cool in a DS/S). Do anybody have any real experience with Puig attachments? since they look nearly identical to the MRA attachments, including the joints tightening mechanism...

5
Sounds logic.
They programmed them differently.
The FX(S) is the more play/hooligan bike.
The DS(R) is his bigger brother who was 1 time like him.
 8)
And yes, the DS(R) and S(R) are programmed to not give you all at lower speeds for safety.
Maybe ask Brandon from Diginow for more details.
He can 'tune' them I believe.

Agreed with the safety feature, although I think they fell too much on the safe side on the DS.
It`s odd they did noy implement at least a basic traction control instead of doing this... They have it all there, the ABS sensors, the controller to implement it, an electronic throttle, a nearly instant means to modify motor output...

6
Have you tried connecting the app to check yourself?  With my FXS, I have held the front brake while applying throttle and watching the app.  It will, indeed, indicate full torque at a stop.  I don't have a DS to try the same thing, but I would be interested to hear if the results are different with other bikes.

Hummmm, doesn´t sound a very safe thing to do... but I can tell the on-board display shows full torque and full Power from the beginning. I use to take a look at it when applying WOT from a stop.

7
Hi,

I recently bought a 2017 DS, the 13kwh version.

I noticed the bike limits how much torque produces from stand-still up to 50 or so km/h. Is this possible? or it´s just a feeling I have?.

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