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Thanks Bender!  My buddy-with-a-printer keeps offering to print a cleaner one, he'll be glad to have an excuse to start it up again!

If Evilthor is correct and the new platform is 200 volts then it might have CHAdeMO DCFC but not CCS. Just means another outlet needed. Still it is far better than the current L2 charging speed. I am assuming 200 volts is the fully charged voltage which is as low as CCS goes. CHAdeMO goes down to 50 volts. Energica when down to around 2% SOC is at about 290 volts. Fully charged it is about 320 volts.

I'm sure if it's in the 200V range then it'll have CCS rather than CHAdeMO, which is dead in the near future.  Also, some CHAdeMO chargers don't actually step down below 200V, which is why Zero stopped their integration project in 2013.  The only(?) reason for Zero to change the system voltage is to make L3 charging possible (and that's a pretty good reason), which means CCS/Mennekes compatibility as those seem to be the winners in US and EU.

I wonder if they'd need to introduce an active cooling system, especially given what we've seen with the Nissan Leaf / Rapidgate [1].

[1] For those that don't follow EV cars, the Nissan Leaf was one of the very first EVs, and like our Zeros it does not have "active battery thermal management", in other words liquid cooling, radiators, fans, etc.  This decision has caused Leafs sold in the US southwest to see massive battery degradation, and now that DCFC is becoming more common Leaf owners are finding that it's impossible to actually reach the advertised charge rates on prolonged drives due to the BMS refusing to commit thermal suicide.  In particular you can't even hit rates over ~30KW when distance driving in subzero temps.

F-our stroke engine is my guess!

"F" in a model number can also mean four cylinder, such as the Honda VF and VFR.  I bet one of us is right.

I got #667.  So close.

This didn't deserve to die in obscurity, I'm bumping it to the top.

My friend printed this out for me and I installed it today, it looks great.  He used 60% infill and it took 19 hours (and barely fit in his printer!).  I sprayed some clearcoat on the resulting piece to keep upsplash from soaking into it.  It reused all original hardware, except I had to buy new bolts for the license plate to fit the lower clearance.

My only concern is the plate angle, in the photo I've bent my tags to an angle I think I can get away with, but I need to print or build some spacers to hit the same angle with actual plates.

Thanks again for this great design!  You really nailed it.

Brandon,
I got a sticker since I always want more of those.  I was thinking of the DIY Tesla Inlet and wasn't sure what it was.  My best guess is it's the Tesla end of a Tesla-to-{J1772 or whatever} adapter?  Understood on the DIY part.