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Messages - zerodog

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1
Way to go!

2
Unfortunately, that is my experience with my rapid charger, too.  They overheat and shutdown.  I ended up putting an old 2.5kw charger I had lying around instead, because the 6kw unit wouldn't work when you plug in any evse that is less than 6kw.  So, I can't plug into any shared site if someone is already there, or will be after I've been charging.  For some reason, a lot of the chargepoint chargers in San Jose are 6kw shared units.

3
Energica / Re: Rebuilding Ribelle front forks
« on: August 14, 2025, 12:20:30 AM »
You could hang the front end off, from the triple clamp to your ceiling if you happen to have exposed rafters in your garage.

4
Sorry, maybe you misunderstood my point.  I bought one of the last batch that you made where instead of the Bluetooth controller, a resistor was used along with the switches to initiate the ever and bike.  So I thought my Elcon are not CAN enable.  That is why I ask the above question.  If they are CAN enable, I will definitely give this a shot since I love to tinker.  Thanks for posting.

5
Do you think this will work for the non-CAN version that use the resistor and switches?

By the way, the last pic cannot be view when I clicked on it.

6
Buy Sell Trade / Re: 2014 Zero SR Parts for sale
« on: September 05, 2024, 02:30:45 AM »
Pm sent

8
Fyi, the parts list is wrong.  Mine don't have a separate dust seal under the metal abs ring, too.

9
Pics and Vids / Re: Zero SRSuperbike
« on: June 05, 2020, 12:33:58 AM »
That is awesome!  Love how you make it look like factory with the way the tank flow seamlessly into the fairing.

After over a year, my fairing is still a work in progress, as I can't decide how I'm going to join it to the tank.  Fortunately it is still functional, as I'm getting about a 15-20% range increase on my 17 S 13.0.

10
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Diginow + chargetank setup
« on: January 08, 2020, 05:45:38 AM »
Fyi.  My 1st gen charge tank output cable is directly connected to the Sevcon controller.

11
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: my seat latch and lock mod
« on: October 12, 2018, 01:31:36 AM »
If I had to do this again, I would drill and tap the holes for the latch mount instead as the subframe metal is thick enough for that.  And drill them near the middle flat part, so I don't have to worry about the 2 struts that run down towards the taillight.  That way I wouldn't have had to remove the plastics.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk


12
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: my seat latch and lock mod
« on: October 11, 2018, 03:17:32 AM »
For the latch, the total distance between the top of the seat subframe to the bottom of the latch is 48mm.

For the striker, the distance between the top of the striker to the seat plastic is 57mm.  This is the distance that seem to allow the seat to be lock tightly for me.  If you do this yourself, your distance might be a little bit different.

13
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: my seat latch and lock mod
« on: October 10, 2018, 09:17:14 AM »
And on the seat.

14
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: my seat latch and lock mod
« on: October 10, 2018, 09:16:18 AM »
More pic of it mounted.

15
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: my seat latch and lock mod
« on: October 10, 2018, 09:14:48 AM »
More pics

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