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Price?

Quote from: staples on June 22, 2022, 08:54:29 PM

Quote from: talon on June 22, 2022, 02:07:46 PM

These Zeros not having a 12V battery backup from the DC-DC is idiotic and dangerous. If you run out of fuel with any ICE vehicle or even electric automobile they will still have lights. Huge oversight.

I prefer not having yet another component that can fail. They can keep their 12V batteries.

Amen!  I've read about so many failures in those new Gen3 bikes directly related to that 12V battery.  One of the reasons I stuck with a Gen2 bike when I needed a new one.

I've heard of far too many of those failures as well, which is a separate issue entirely. Implemented correctly, there are no downsides--like having a second brake. All I am saying is that a redundancy for the DC-DC failing or main contactor opening is crucial if these bikes were ever intended to be driven around other vehicles.

As long as you're a few percent below 100% SOC you will have full regen.

IIRC motor temperature being too high, battery temperature being too high or low, and pack imbalance while regen are other factors that can disable regen at any percentage. So you may not even know that one cell is charging unevenly and if it gets past a certain threshold (say 100mv away)  then regen may be shut off. I'd have to log into my bike or review settings logs to see at least some of the specifics but I'm just trying to illustrate a point to just be careful. I used to live on and near some VERY steep hills that could smoke brakes easily and my Zero regen was not sufficient alone and I rode it enough to encounter some of these other factors that turned off regen temporarily at least one time. Safe riding

Worst case scenario I can make you a v3 board which was a totally isolated system, but you'll have to DIY the enable signal to put it into charge mode. It does require a little bit of splicing up your wiring harness (2 wires), so if you aren't comfortable with that you just wouldn't be able to manually put the bike into charge mode.

Morgan, why would it require splicing the wiring harness? With the appropriate connectors you can just add a cable in-line and keep the harness pristine. It's a bit more tedious perhaps but leaves behind a stock bike and harness.

On a separate note I wouldn't mind turning my V2.5 into a backup and building another to further isolate and hack in remote 4G monitoring with Brandon's released github builds. Do you mind sharing the CAN shield used? I have a 2016 bike from before the isolation issues.

Don, just checked and a measly 13,000 miles after 4 years with most of that riding being the first year. I didn't ride much during peak COVID as I lost some family in traffic accidents.

I also go through tires every 3,000-6,000 miles. The stock Pirelli diablo rosso IIs were super dangerous IMO but my Bridgestone S20 Evos have amazing traction in the wet and a stiff carcass where if you were to get a puncture you feel safer. I've not needed to add any air to them since 2021. If I get 60,000 miles out of my bike I will have broken even on cost with gasoline alone.

2016 SR purchased 2018 brand new.
-Kickstand sensor failed
-been through 1 or 2 belts already from road debris
-Rear brake caliper bracket snapped (damaging brake line)
-Swingarm bearing is notchy now
-Front forks probably need service as stiction has increased
-Battery heats up MUCH more easily now but balance and range seem fine. Throttle cutbacks are a bit more common now, starting at slightly higher SOC but I have warranty until 2023 so I'm riding like crazy now
-Front temporary bright headlight switch is hard to push now

-been through 2 sets of brake pads so far just commuting. wish regen was stronger but not modding it yet.
Honestly very happy, most of this is routine service stuff. Switches go bad, bearings wear out. In line with my expectations of the bike so far and I enjoy it. The brake line bracket was a design "flaw"/weakness that was fixed in 2017.

My absolute biggest gripes with Zero are the amount of heat the stock charger used to put into my battery (sometimes cutting off charge early on a cool day) and the safety oversight of not having a backup 12V battery. If the bike cuts off on you to protect the battery, you have no 12v lights or horn which is just so stupid and dangerous.

I have a 0.030" test indicator (+/-0.015") and my 2016 SR sprockets' powdercoating itself makes any value I get from it unusable. Do you have a rolling test point on your dial indicator?

I haven't made much progress, but I've learned a lot. Thanks to those that have reached out to help me communicate with the round 8-pin connector on the front of the BMS. I inspected the battery very carefully and then sealed (water-resistance) and reassembled it. For a battery made in 2011, my cells seem to be in phenomenal shape maintaining great balance under reasonably high charge rates/loads with minimal impedance. This is the lowest self-discharge with BMS that I've ever seen. It's last full charge was in 2016 and it was since stored at 65%SoC.

I searched many connector references and discovered the MBB-to-battery connectors on 2012-2013 and possibly even past 2016 are Molex MX150L. Make sure you get the less-common industrial series "L" version as it is slightly larger.

I've narrowed down the male terminals of the Molex plug that is attached to the battery housing to certain groups of purposes, will post a picture later.

I'm doing my first full discharge test tonight, I will carefully monitor cell temperatures and voltages.