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Messages - methods

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1
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: 2015 DS throttle hand fatigue
« on: August 29, 2017, 09:48:23 PM »
P.S.

They may also send both signals into the MBB and then drive the CAN bus to an RPDO in Sevcon such that the analog throttle signal never reaches the Sevcon.  Makes for a hell of a lot more CAN traffic.  No idea what they did... and if someone told me I pushed the "forgetter" button. (worked classified over 10 years under the NNSA.  You learn to forget what you dont have a Need To Know for.)

I dont have any DCF files later than 2016...  so if you have one...  please upload it to the repository
http://www.schindlerengineering.com/public/repository/

Anyone, anywhere, can walk up to a Zero, pull the DCF using any number of tools, and there is nothing wrong with that.  If Zero did not want that...  then they should have selected a non-open platform.  Hell...  the DCF even comes out in human readable ASCII so... 

-methods

2
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: 2015 DS throttle hand fatigue
« on: August 29, 2017, 09:39:39 PM »
Well so I spoke briefly with Harlan .... he said any replacement would require reprogramming the controller. So that's out for me. ...

back from the dead - with the Technical Answer  (as opposed to the short answer....  which end up being the same but may be of some interest)

Reprogramming of the controller is not that big of a deal.
Very minimal changes need to be made to the throttle map to convert back to 5K pot from Hall.
You can rent a CAN dongle for $50, pull the DCF, change it quickly, and flash it back.
No change to behavior on the bike...  other than a slightly different throttle mapping.

Since the hall sensor was dual output...  you may have some trouble with the MBB...  which is another story.  With the two signals they had the opportunity to either run both into the Sevcon as a differential input or run one to the Sevcon and one to the MBB.  I would have to pull up the DCF to see which direction they went.

Safety is always first, but it seems that as time goes on the Zero is becoming more and more dependent and integrated with the MBB.  This is fine for meeting requirements but it goes in the opposite direction of modularity and any chance of getting a foothold in other markets.  It also impedes owners ability to perform modifications...  which is close to my heart  (no desire to ride anything stock).

My understanding is that the two hall signals are inverted.
The one that goes into the Sevcon is straight forward.
If the other goes to the MBB...  for a comparison...  they would either have to send *both* analog signals or the MBB would have to read the throttle state off the CAN...  which would just make for CAN clutter...  so I am guessing that both signals go to the MBB (if they do).  In that case they may just be doing difference math (which means a dual pot would work) but more likely they have it bound top and bottom...  which means to make the dual pot work (without reprogramming the MBB) you would need to run inline resistors at both the top and the bottom to bound the voltage swing such that it matches the hall output swing. 

There would be no way to measure the linearity (Pot is likely linear while the hall has a curve to it).

So the hack is:
1)  Remove dual hall throttle
2)  Flash new DCF
3)  Attach dual pot throttle
4)  If no errors, great.  If errors then calculate and add inline resistances to top AND bottom of both pot's
5)  Test thoroughly...  (dont just go out and wrap it with your fingers crossed  ::))

For Honda's and the like infinite "black box" solutions popped up over the years to allow folks to do as they please with minimal fuss.  With something as sketch as the throttle on a 80hp peak electric bike...  I would be hesitant to attach any black boxes that were not very well documented.  If one existed and it was documented it would look like this:

1)  Potted box (must be IP67 or better)
2)  Pigtails coming out that emulate the dual hall throttle
3)  Pigtails coming out that mate to the dual pot throttle  (or cut both to cover multiple years)
4)  Box reads the 5K voltage swing and maps it to a Hall swing
5)  Done - guaranteed to work perfectly
6)  Disclaimer - off road use only...  do not use ...  etc. 
7)  Cost?  After initial engineering a box like that costs $20 to make so $50 retail...  until the Chinese copy it...  then $30 retail.

From a modification standpoint...  one wants access to the MBB software.  Never seen it myself other than looking over the shoulder of Peter or Nate (I purposely never checked it out from the repository as my major is in Software and I did not want to see any conflict of interest crop up.  Whats in the box is not rocket science by any means.).  I could duplicate it and replace the MBB but it would be 6mo work (after) the initial reverse engineering.  Not worth it.  Most people just reflash their DCF to eliminate the RPDO's, rewire the contactor, and have complete control over their bikes - tho with some feature compromise.  A bit more rewiring may be required for anything running through the MBB...  like profile select.

We currently do not include anything like an MBB in our Sevcon powered equipment...  but we are getting there...  as the limitations of the Sevcon bump up against the safety requirements of such a powerful system.  There is a big difference between putting out something OEM and modifying (safely) something that is OEM.  One shoulders all the responsibility while the other is "off road" or experimental.

Someone, somewhere could probably hack an older model MBB into your 2017... one which was suitable for a 5K pot...  but that would be a pretty bass ackwards way of doing it.  Likely fail.

Sounds like Harlan was right.
Its a No-Go.
Bummer...  because I know that the best Zero engineers are Modders at heart.

I have a 2013 SR but I dont own it and I am not interested enough to mod it on hobby time.
If anyone wants to see a sketch of how its done...  let me know.
I would not do it with an Arduino unless you have lockouts...  its one of those rare instances where you keep in the analog domain...  as its a simple level transition (scaling) with upper and lower bounds.

-methods

3
Awesome tips.
Glad you are supporting the Zero platform.

The lack of torque appears in the DCF as a thrust tapering vs RPM...  I am nowhere near overheat yet.  Just a WOT pull on cold motor from a dead stop on a straight away.  Note - I am only looking for the absolute limit of how much the copper and magnets can put out (saturation) vs thermal dT/dt.  (how fast it heats up)

With this motor (probably machined by Harlin) I am certain that we can turn up the current in the window above 3000rpm.  The stock zero bikes are tuned for OEM performance... where what I want is burst performance...  that will allow us to assess cooling needs for "other applications" which require a higher continuous power rating.

Picture a boat plowing full speed to get out of a nasty set of waves...  or an airplane taking off in a bad wind with too much load.
Absolute max burst thrust for 30 seconds followed by a cooling period.

ok - OT...  I will take it to another thread.

thanks,
-methods


4
I thought the loss of traction was a good thing  :)

I got the story on the bike and motor.
We have it over at Calfee Design now and we are considering experimenting with some aesthetics.
This one already has a size 6 and vented motor... so other than suspension...  not much to do for performance.

It needs carbon fiber.
Fast Charging
Reverse
Different kick stand

First Ride Impressions:
Plenty of power for a normal person.  I was nervous riding it at first as it was assembled by someone I dont know...  but I got comfortable.  Only so many parts can fall off right??

Power falls off on the straight away under WOT. 
I enjoy acceleration more than speed - so this is perfect.
Maybe more torque would be nice.

As for tinkerers...  I have heard that there are a few around here...

-methods

5
Parts, Mods And Hacks / Re: How to Unbrick sevcon controller
« on: June 06, 2017, 03:39:22 PM »
I dont know if I posted it on ES but there is a two letter command (BD) that spits out that same sequence of hex such that you dont have to memorize them, type them in, or have them around.

Not sure everyone will have the command...  but I tested it on our gear and it works.

As for bricking issues...  I avoid flashing DLD unless I really need to...  and when I do I walk away from it and let it think for a long time.  Super easy to get impatient and blow it.

-methods

6
Good points.

I usually push for the most insane power possible as that teaches us the most, exposes the most problems, drives the market in the right direction, and allows us to fall back into something with margin.  Think racing teams for major manufacturers.

To stay on topic...  which was identifying parts...  I have a good one to share:

Tonight I was picking up what I thought was a "Stock" 2013 DS....   :D



My task was to get the batteries swapped, play with it for a while, then take it over to Calfee Design to see how we could make it interesting.

Now I have watched a lot of bikes go down the line... so they all sort of look the same to me.  S, SR, FX - whatever...  I cant afford any of them so ... all the same to me right?

First I notice the color - SR colors.  SR badge.  Fancy rims.. think to myself "hmmm..  somebody must have dug through the blems bin and swapped their plastics"

So I take it for a ride around the block before strapping it up.
"Hmmm...  loud squealing sound at wide open throttle.  Never heard that before...  wtf?"

I had not gone over the bike so I was a bit nervous...  never know what the last guy did to it..  or forgot to do...  but I slammed on the brakes and blipped WOT a couple times and it dint burst into flames or throw me over the bars...  so I took a second lap.

On the second lap, coming off of a stop sign turning right I pitched the rear end all the way out.
Thinking "wtf?"
It straightened right out and I thought nothing more of it.

Most of the Zero's I have ridden have been modified in some way or another by various nefarious characters.  To tell the truth....  I dont even know if I have ever ridden a stock bike.

So - back on topic...  I take a closer look at the bike
Notice some weird black tape on the battery box
Notice... eh...  what motor is that  ;D  (see pic)
What long heat sink is that?



Sweet.
Got me again guys.

Love it when someone puts me on something I expect to be stock and it turns out to be highly modified.

-methods

P.S.  I do not yet know how to upload and then embed pics on this forum.  I  think posts are much more enjoyable to read with the pics inline...

7
On the subject of power....

P =V*I

P = I^2*R
P = V^2/R

So...  assuming our motor can handle the continuous inefficiency - either by oil or air cooling...  what does it REALLY MEAN to have 775 amps running?

Well..

Assuming they are using 2AWG cables that is about 160uOhms a foot
I^2*R should calculate out to 100Watts of power being dissipated in a foot of the cabling if we were to run that continuous.
(Which of course we are not - its a burst or peak rating)

As for losses...  thats not really noticeable in performance...  but as for heating, connectors, cabling, cabling weight, ...  eh...  bad news.

Big Picture the way to make power is with Voltage - not current.
If we want to scale the pack voltage needs to go up, current needs to go down, and then the power to weight ratio and overall performance will greatly improve.

Motorcycle companies that can deal with this will lead the pack.
Major issues are EMI....  noise...  safety...  corrosion...

Problems with aerodynamics go up with the cube of speed
Problems with power goes up with the square of current
We are converging on a natural limit...  that is... unless you want to run wires the size of coke cans.

I want to run 100hp continuous....  then 200hp
The Biff motor can do a hell of a lot more with forced cooling.
The R motors are sealed and oil cooled which is rad - but there are a lot of the older motors kicking around

Ok - thats my bed time 2nd post rant.
Cheers.

-methods

8
Wow...  Arron C. is the POC for tech issues on the forums?

I was a quality engineer at Zero for a year.
MSEE with 15 years of Ebike madness experience.

Currently we are building Sevcon Based power systems that are very similar to what you see on a Zero....  so all things Sevcon are on our radar.
If I can help in any way let me know.

Can you send more pics of the 4.5 controller?

It is certainly true that the 80V controllers run up to 116V...  but I would be very surprised to see gen 4 markings on a gen 4.5 controller unless it was an early release for Zero (which may be..  and if so..  I want one)


thanks,
-methods

P.S.  Drill holes in your motor Doc style... :-)
See pics here
www.SchindlerEngineering.com


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