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Maybe you could contact JJuan in Barcelona, SP. to buy parts for the master cylinder shown in the 4th. row on this page; http://jjuan.es/by-product-type/master-cylinders-2/?lang=en there must be JJuan dealers that would sell parts. This would bypass ZERO and might be faster. When I moved my rear brake control to the handlebar it bothered me having different master cylinders on the handlebar( one triangle, one rectangle) and there  are many Brembo master cylinders available to replace the JJuan

The rear brake switch is activated hydraulically by pressure in the rear brake system. It could be you have some air in the rear system and needs extra lever pressure to close the switch. The threaded rod from the brake lever to the master cylinder adjusts lever height. This a SR rear mc no adjustments except for lever height. Switch is built into top banjo bolt.
 

Clay, yes a brake line like the front brake, run to the ABS unit and an extension from the rear brake sw. uses the shortest brake line path. The ABS unit is between the frame spars right behind the steering tube. Getting a wrench in there  and then retorquing the banjo bolt is a bigger pia than I wanted to undertake. So the the long brake run and short wiring mod. I'm sure bleeding the shorter line would be easier.

Notes from a left hand rear brake project. Can't fabricate parts so easy since retiring, so quit the cable-to rear master cyl. method. I measured the front MC piston (13mm), rear MC (12mm) and front caliper (30 & 32mm) Rear caliper (34mm). Banjo threads on front MC 10mmx1.0, rear MC 10mmx1.25. Since I was eliminating the rear MC and had a 10mm x 1.0 180 deg. manifold had to buy a Tusk  hydraulic switch. I used a Brembo clutch MC, a custom Speigler hose (1422mm long) with a 90 deg. and a short straight on either end. Put it all together, bled the system. It felt good in the garage test mode. Unfortunately the tusk was weeping out of the wires. They are sending another no charge,no return of the faulty one. I would bypass the brake sw. but I think it may activate the ABS as well as the brake light. It's been snowing so not completely bummed at the delay. I'd love to see an electrical schematic but they seem as rare as service manuals. The drawing may or may not be a Gen9 ABS but is probably typical

The email from ZERO

Manual torque is for axle end bolts, 2016 SR has no end bolts only a 17mm socketed rightside of shaft that threads into the left side fork leg.. 75 ft/lb seems a little high, looking at other manuals the torque hovers either side of 50 ft/lb. Will check with ZERO. Will say other requests for specifications haven't yielded satisfactory answers.

Couldn't find any info on front wheel removal so I'll go through how i did it. Loosen axle pinch bolts( 6mm allen), then loosen axle(17mm allen). These are best loosened with the wheel solidly on the ground. Loosen brake pad retaining pin(T25 torx) don't remove all the way pull out inner brake pad, the pad seems to prevent the caliper from clearing the brake disc then screw in the pin a few turns, this makes reassembly a lot easier. Remove allen bolts holding the caliper on. I also pulled the ABS cable away from the brake line so the ABS sensor and the caliper could hang separately. Remove caliper.  Lift bike's front wheel off the ground. Remove axle. Pull wheel out. Reverse steps for install. This is different than the method in the unofficial manual, maybe different years and parts. The owners manual I got with the bike also mentions front axle bolts that aren't on the 2016 SR. I'm going to use standard bolt size torques for now. I'm not sure what to torque the axle to. I'll check with my dealer.