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Charging while the bike is keyed on isn't an issue and won't cause any damage. Neither will trying to charge it along with the Tesla on the same circuit, the worst that will happen is you'll trip a breaker but once that's reset everything will work fine. The clicking you're hearing is the contactor, basically a switch that closes to connect the battery to the rest of the bike.

Do you get any error codes on the dash? You might need to key the bike on to see them, not sure if they show when charging but keyed off. 44 and 45 are to be expected, for the kill switch and kickstand. If there are no codes then you'll need to download the logs via the app.

I get no error codes which is why I am hopeful a quick fix might be posssible. I ammostly wondering if anyone has ever heard the symptoms I speak of where the dashborad does not light up at all yet there is a recurring clicking sound?

Yeah, what TheRan said

You want to make sure your bike gets charged as soon as possible - at least between 30-60 if the charger isn't working.  If it's below 30, the battery runs the risk of being damaged from storage.  A dealer should have a supplemental charger to stabilize the battery in such a case.

Battery chargers are, well, fickle.  Some individuals last forever, some don't, and if you read around the boards here some specific Zeros seem to kill their chargers.  (And if you've ever paid attention to those public charging stations, well, they die all the time.)

-Crissa

Thanks Crissa, I am at 70% now so if it looks like I have to go in I wont ride it much until then.

Pretty impressed with the on-board mic as it was locked inside the waterproof case and still had good sound. My voice naturally sounds like kermit...its not the mic....thats why my avatar is kermit. It's not ez being green, but worse when you have a fetish for porky chicks and can't fit them on the back of your zero fx!

Found this video before I even bought my FX. This guy's English isn't perfect but he answers you in English on his channel.

Quote from: AdEPT Erik on September 22, 2016, 03:20:17 AM

I just pushed the cables further along the clamps in to the space between the handlebars and the chassis...i.e.from left to right. It only needed two inches of adjustment to fix the problem on my FX

Sounds like an easy fix.  Can you post a pic of how you moved/supported the cable?

Yup will try to get the done later when home from work, but really it's not too technical ... literally just grabbed the cables and force fed them down into the guts of the machine. I assume since they come up from the front brake that they eventually lead to the front brake caliper....so by shoving them out of my way all I did was create a larger loop inside the guts somewhere. The cables one black small one and one larger silvery one are held in place by clamps, and they are very tight, but with enough force, and I think I pulled down with my free hand below the first clamp while also pushing down with my right hand, I was able to slide them along the first clamp on the right. I used no tools and literally just grabbed the cables and slowly but forcefully pushed them down towards the clamp which eventually let them slide down from their original position. I tried the clamp leading up to the control box from the front wheel assembly, but it was too tight and it would have looked dumb to have extra cable sticking out there....so I concentrated on the right side pushing down instead of the left.

So to answer your question I did not support the cable with anything extra, just used the existing clamps and pushed the cable such that the arc in my face was smaller, and the arc somewhere in the gut was obviously bigger...but I didn't actually see where exactly.... The display obfuscated my view in a good way there.

One pet peeve while doing this though was that I noticed my head lights wires are not shielded at the ends...is this by design or just lazy !?!??! Will I wreck anything if I go in there with some black electric tape and wrap up the red and white ends a bit? Just seems like water or dirt and road grime could get into the wiring all exposed like that?

I just pushed the cables further along the clamps in to the space between the handlebars and the chassis...i.e.from left to right. It only needed two inches of adjustment to fix the problem on my FX, and there is extra flexibility that is unnecessary under there now while turning, but no negative result I can fathom. The grand question is why ZERO didn't do this for me!?!?? Could they not make the cable two inches shorter themselves or attach the guide clamps in such a way as to not block the view of the controls?!?!! You would think so but perhaps too small an issue to get "bent out of shape" over. Sorry couldn't help it had to do something special for first post! :p