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On a side note, WTB 2014+ SR battery.

Your battery is more likely ok, you just have to charge it to 100%, and after a few charging/discharging cycles the cell balance will be ok too.
Do not mess with the connectors/ribbon cable  between the cells and BMS, I saw dealers damaging that ribbon cable, and it's not something that you will get an easy or fast replacement.

Those Elcon chargers are of two types:
1. CAN controlled- and you will need a controller that it's sold separately.
2. Switch enabled - instead of the CAN wires it has two wires coming out that needs to be touching together in order for the charger to get in charging mode.

Which Elcon do you have, and what's the maximum voltage that it's programmed to charge too?

Good luck.

Tom   

where the f*ck is the dc to dc converter

See here:

and here:

what cable and software are you referring to for the controller?

This: https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/sevcon-gen4-pc-based-programming-kit.html

You may find the software free here: https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=11302.0

Good luck.

Tom

Anyone experience the build of a new battery for a zero.
Connecting the battery to the controller is poorly documented.. could use some advice.

In my opinion, the only way to do it will be to build a battery pack with cells that have the same voltage limits like the original Battery pack, and use the original BMS (like me, and others did with the old style of battery pack of the 2010 Zero model). This is because everything is controlled by a main board, and it will not recognize your after market BMS.

Another way is to buy the cable and software (~ $1.000,00) for the controller, and bypass the main board, but then you will have to make your own dashboard, that will show you the data from your BMS, and speedometer.

Good luck.

Tom 

For future reference, for when I need it, can you tell me where you got the replacement motor brushes?

Thanks.

I bought a similar motor, that was new old stock, from eBay, because I had to replace the brush holder too.

So,
I managed to hook up a serial connection to the main bike board, and it was seeing the throttle fine. No error messages anywhere.

The direct pot throttle connected to the Alltrax controller yielded no result. So, I extracted the controller and bench tested it : although it doesn't show any error messages on the LED, or on the log (Alltrax controllerpro software connected using the serial port), it still doesn't work. According to Alltrax support, I should be getting supply voltage across B- and M output at throttle 0, and a lowering voltage proportional to the throttle going up. I am getting a fixed voltage. So, the high power stage of the controller appears to be defective.

Any thought on what controller I should get to replace it? Alltrax told me the direct replacement for this specific controller which is not being made anymore is the SR48500 model. Are there cheaper options?

I will try using a new, 5Kohm variable resistor instead of your throttle, because you said that the contactor won't activate, and that it's controlled by the MBB not by the controller.

A small update :
I received instructions from Alltrax (they are super quick to respond and very nice) :

Code: [Select]

As for testing to see whats wrong you'll need to get it to fail before running these,
hen make sure everything is powered up like you're going to ride it.

1) Measure b- to b+ on the controller, activate the throttle so the solenoid engages
        you should have 48v
    Measure b- to M (middle bus bar), activate the throttle so the solenoid engages
        you should have 48v

2) Change the meter over to ohms, 20k if it doesn't autorange
    Pull pins 2 and 3 off the controller (second and third small wire away from the LED)
measure resistance between the two wires, activate the throttle. It should start at 0 and
climb up to around 5k as you twist the throttle

If both of those tests check out, and the controller is not giving any red blink codes then
something is failing in the high current circuit.
I did this and I found out that I am not getting 0K to 5K at the controller. I tested the throttle itself at the cable disconnect that goes to the MBB, and I do get a proper 0K to 5K. I tested the harness cables before and after the MBB, all good. It now looks like the main bike board is to blame.

Damn undocumented black boxes. I have no kind words for Zero as a company.

I will build a serial cable to interface with the MBB and try to see if there is something wrong there. I will also hook up a 5K pot straight to the controller to see if it responds properly. If it does, I will likely bypass the MBB.

Thoughts?

The MBB is monitoring the current sensor, it will scream murder and disable the contactor if you connect the throttle straight to the controller.

Hi.
I have confirmed the throttle potentiometer gives out a smooth 0 to 5Ko response through the whole range.

That's not good  , because the throttle is the easiest, and less expensive. Next you're looking at a dead motor controller, or burned motor brushes. Ask me how I know