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Messages - fencingdude101

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Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: SRS 12v accessory power cut/reset
« on: December 03, 2022, 12:13:09 AM »
Thanks karlh for the reference to 6.33, good info. So it's not the MBB, rather the PDU that controls all the 12v circuits other than ABS and the Dash. There're also no redundant traditional fuses for each individual PDU-controlled 12v circuits, only 3 10A fuses going into the PDU.
Helpful to know.

2
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: SRS 12v accessory power cut/reset
« on: December 02, 2022, 02:14:00 AM »
Funny, I've been dealing with a similar thing recently on my '20 SR/S, but with heated gear.
If I max out the heated grips, heated seat, gloves, and jacket liner, power to all of these cuts off until I restart the bike. No dash warning. It was right on the edge, as I didn't have the issue when slightly lowering the jacket power.
It has been getting worse over the past few cold days (lower power levels were tripping things), and it turns out my heated jacket has a short in it that I'm doing a warranty claim on. Hopefully the new jacket pulls less amps without the short and I can stay warm this winter!

Anyway.

There is a 10A fuse under the seat for the 12v Accessory circuit, so if more than 10A was pulled, I initially expected the fuse to blow, and to not get 12v Accessory power until a new fuse is put in. Since a bike restart resets power delivery, there's something else going on.

There is a comment in the unofficial zero manual that may explain things: https://zeromanual.com/wiki/12V_Fuse_Block

Quote
Gen3 models have a fuse block but the protection has redundant upstream components in the MBB, so the fuse block just helps with isolation.

It sounds like the FST platform has more than just fuses protecting the 12v wiring.

Either way, I think you're pulling more than the allowed 10A, and the bike is being nice and not forcing you to replace a fuse after doing so.
I've seen forum posts of people putting bigger fuses in for the Accessory circuit, but I'm not sure if that will work for us, since the MBB is monitoring things as well.
Other options I've seen include adding another DC-DC converter and adding another 12v battery.

3
I rebuilt my '20 SR/S frontend a month or two ago. I used RaceTech 5w fork oil. There are definitely differences in actual oil viscosity at different temperatures between each brand (One brand's 5w is another 10w - see image), so the important thing is to pick an oil that feels good for your setup and stick with it.
In other bikes I've owned with Showa BP-SFF forks, the spec oil was Showa SS-47, which I understand is a replacement for SS-8. If you're having a hard time finding Showa oil for a reasonable price, you can try looking for Honda or Kawasaki-branded SS-8/SS-47 oil, which should be similar. 10w oils from other brands like Bel-Ray, Maxima, etc should be close as well and much cheaper.
I forget what I set the fork oil level too. I just matched whatever was in there when I took them apart. Other bikes I've had were spec'd around 90mm.

For steering head grease, I just used a Bel-Ray waterproof grease. Any good automotive waterproof bearing grease should be fine, just make sure to properly clean and re-pack them.
My head bearings were tapered bearings, where torque values are basically useless. I assume yours are too. When setting tapered bearings, it's all by feel - you want them tight enough so when you try to rock the forks you don't feel any movement, but no tighter. It's better to be tighter than looser. There are good tutorials on YouTube for what to do. Just make sure you check them again after a hundred miles as they like to loosen up after being set.
For the upper triple lock nut, I just tightened by feel, since I couldn't find a torque value either.


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