ElectricMotorcycleForum.com

*Sold on 05/10/2018 for $7500. Thanks for looking!*

Hi all, the time has come to part ways with my beloved 2014 Zero SR. It's been a great bike that's served me reliably over the years but I just don't ride it anymore now that I commute by bicycle! This is a unique SR with several modifications listed below. I'm asking $8000 or the best reasonable offer. Located in the Tempe, AZ area. Contact Stephen Schaefer at stephen@sfbsoftware.com or call me at 520-591-9140.

Follow the link for plenty of photos: https://imgur.com/a/5E9zE

•   14k miles, one owner. Purchased in September 2014. Used for commuting and pleasure rides.
•   SR model with upgraded motor and controller (660 A peak). Standard ZF 11.4 kWh battery pack.
•   Performance specs: 0-60 mph @ 3.3s, top speed 102 mph.
•   Range specs: Range varies greatly with riding style and speed, between 70 – 120 miles per charge. Sustained highway riding at 70 mph+ would fall on the short end, while stop-and-go city traffic with heavy regen in Eco mode is on the high end. I averaged about 100 miles per charge under ordinary city/country conditions.
•   Charging specs: Standard onboard level 1 charger only, plugs into any 120 VAC, 15 A circuit. Approximately 8-9 hours to full charge from 0% state-of-charge (SOC).
•   Never had a firmware update. Some riders have reported serious issues with recent firmware updates, so this might be a positive.
•   Tires: front Pirelli Diablo Rosso II 110/70, rear Pirelli Diablo Rosso II 140/70. Plenty of life left on both.
•   Corbin Gunfighter custom saddle, black with blue vinyl welt. Seating position is lower and further back than stock, allowing a lower and more aero riding stance.
•   Custom made left-hand rear brake. The hand-operated brake master cylinder is mounted on the left handlebar. There are no foot-operated levers as you would find in a conventional ICE bike. This can be easily reversed back to the stock right-hand foot brake configuration.
•   LED headlights and license plate lamp, 6000 K white all. Headlight: Headwinds 8-9030 for main beam, SuperBrightLEDs 921-WHP10-TL for running lamp (upper bulb). License plate light: SuperBrightLEDs WLED-CWHP6-AC.
•   Custom painted metallic blue plastics.
•   Full documentation for all service and parts ordering. Will include all removed stock parts with sale.

Because Imgur is not reliable to keep images for years, I put a copy of them on my webspace... and then made some resized ones to put inline.. (click them for larger pics)

You're da real MVP! I didn't have the patience to try to downsize the photos without ruining the resolution when I first made this post. In future posts I will always try to link photos inline. Thanks a bunch!

A few days ago I posted some photos of a sheet-metal air duct I made for my 2014 SR on the Zero Motorcycles Owner's Group on Facebook. By popular request I am presenting a project summary here.

**Please note that I have placed links to all the project photos on Imgur. They are physically too large to show in-line.**

The standard Zero S/SR/DS places the air-cooled motor directly behind the battery pack. The battery pack does an admirable job of blocking almost all airflow across the motor fins. Consequently many riders will experience overheating issues when riding at high speeds for extended periods. Especially so if you happen to live in Tucson, AZ, with 40+ Celsius summers .

My primary goal was to create some kind of air duct that would at least get a little air moving across the motor. The finished product had to be removable, minimally visually intrusive, and reasonably sturdy. In that regard my design worked well. The airflow is not optimal, but it's better than almost nothing at all.

I created my design from 20 gauge galvanized steel sheet metal. I used a jigsaw to cut out the flat pattern shown below. I apologize for the sloppy dimensioning, I am only an EE after all 

After cutting out the flat pattern, I folded it as shown below to form the air duct.

I used M4-0.7 8mm long screws and nuts to fasten the two small triangle "ears" at the 45 degree bend. This is necessary for stiffening the folded duct. A more enterprising individual would weld these ears in place. I should also point out the three holes I drilled at the rear 45 degree bend to allow water to drain out.

The next step was to drill holes in the bottom belly pan from the motorcycle to fasten the duct. The air duct hooks over the rear edge of the belly pan. Once positioned, I drilled and tapped M4-0.7 threads using the air duct mounting holes as a reference.

I coated the air duct with three coats of Rustoleum Professional metal primer and three coats Rustoleum Professional flat black for a solid finish. Once well cured, I fastened it to the bottom pan with M4-0.7 8mm long screws and Loctite blue.

Then, it was simply time to bolt the whole shebang back on the bike and admire the work. By the way, I found that I had to wrestle the ground wire for the 110VAC charging jack around to clear the air duct.

So the big question is, does it work? I have not yet conducted any kind of controlled experiment to give a definite answer. I can state anecdotally that it seems to have shaved anywhere from 5-10 Celsius when riding on the highway. Naturally, the duct is much more effective at higher speeds. We'll see how it handles on the track at Arroyo Seco Raceway in New Mexico this weekend.

Do be aware that if you make this for your own bike, you'll lose about 2 cm clearance. Additionally, it could be easily damaged by stones and debris and such. Not a good idea if you're going offroad. Of course, it can also be removed pretty easily if you don't like it  .

Possible improvements would include a larger duct height (from 2 cm as shown), a smooth bend at the rear end rather than 45 degrees, and additional ducts/tubes directing air towards the top of the motor. I'm welcome to suggestions.