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Hope not, at least there were some ways to keep the knowledge safe in a DB for almost nothing or anyway to ask for help to keep maintaining it alive....
Anyway, have you any Idea where to find Battery Diagnostic software and general software for the Empulse?
Thanks

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Quote from: panurge on December 09, 2015, 09:20:43 PM

Yes, of course, and maybe more reliable but less elegant.
I have a nice box made by an endless-sphere member that's for mechanical wire to hall effect, and a lot of potentionemetrs for the Oxygen cargo scooter that are leverage type pot, with an insert on the leverage to hook a standard mechanical wire head onto, I'll post some specs/pics when at home.....it is reliable and interesting, made in UK.

You mean this one ? https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=58801 5vdc if I recall.

Yes exactly.
The max output is 6VDC and it is adjustable by moving the magnets inside the box.
The Oxygen Cargo Potentiometer, should be the best option for a cable actuating pot, though. It is splashproof, reliable and made for Heavy Duty industrial applications. Shouldn't remember the brand and shouldn't find the specs on my laptop right now, It is certainly in my Shop deskPC and anyway I have them phisically so I'll post an image soon, there are versions with almost any output.....

Mine was just a concept idea, exactly as you describe, not a true varible regen but a switch (I've used the word "multiswitch" before), I've called it "pseudo-variable" for that reason. Eheh! obviously a true variable regen as you use and suggest is way better, but not for everybody......if I will own a Zero, sure I would go with the full variable regen even if that would mean to virtually loose the warranty, but, actually, I have a friend/customer owning a DS and asking for a way to get some extra regen features without the need (and the implicit risk of warranty expiration) to reprogram anything.

Good point about the need for 0 throttle before changes take effect....my feel is that it is true for speed settings but not for regen settings where changes seems to be valid just after a fraction of a second, at least in the 2014DS I've tested recently for some days, but maybe I'm wrong.
Were this the case, pulling/releasing fast the clutch lever, one could luckily pass through all the lever's bands of my switch idea under the limit time, and go directly to the other extreme (from zero neutral to the actual throttle roll back regen and vice-versa) but even, with a bit of use, pull (or release) the lever slowly (band by band) and give it the time to get the relative regen.
There's even to consider that one would pull the regen lever (and get regen or a coasting feeling) mostly while rolling back to 0 throttle or yet there.

I would just like to try that, and maybe the real world would say that's totally wrong and useless.......

A left hydro brake lever plus pressure transducer is probably the best performing and elegant solution for fully variable regen, indeed.

Hey Burton

I don't know what kind oftransducer you are actually using, but yes they could suffer from freezing temps, depending on the type and specs of the device. but as you point out these are mostly problems concerning the water ice expansion. I belive that, likely, even in anoil based system, freezing moisture even in the enclosed air could lead to problems with some transducers at freezing temps.

Since me too, I'm working to develop a left (hydraulic clutch) lever for regen, I asked here and there my expert buddies about the best reliable and precision hydraulic device for this application and got the advice to try an industrial sealed pressure transmitter or a crystal type transducer, often devices rated for extremes temp ranges, able to take vibrations and last longer cycles than standard devices, althoug more expensive. Have not really deep-searched about them actually, but just typing on google gives good examples with specs and everything.
It is a very interesting application, and will follow your reports and develops...


A bit OT....^_^

My ICE biased idea for a regen actuator is to work from a clutch lever, maybe an hydro kit like brembo and other makes, even with a racing foldable lever (like these ASVs http://www.htmracing.it/cms/images/foto_prodotti/foto_frizioni/frizioni11.jpg). what would be great, is to use then a sort of multiswitch pressure device allowing the lever to act with bands like:
- from 100% of throw (totally squeezed) to say 85% = 0 regen
- from 85% to 50% of throw = 40% regen
- from 50% to say 15% = full regen
- from 15% of throw to release position =  normal regen (that means the roll back regen settings of your actual mode)

This way the bike could still works exactly in the "factory" way, if you're not touching the lever (and even fold it up), but can give you a -0 regen coast feeling- while squeezing the clutch and a -clutch plates engage feeling- while releasing the lever, till the normal rollback setting you have....

A more electric biased approach could be otherwise a Tesla style twist throttle, that in a motorcycle should give something similar to the engine braking feeling of Big mono or twin ICEs bikes while releasing the throttle partly/fully with slow or fast movements.

J.L.

would be cool to use the OBD2 style serial interface, and I have TTL chips and OBD plugs to build up the adaptor, but the port has a tiestrip and seems sealed too, so it is one of the parts I would not open.
Thanks again Burton for your great help...so you can confirm that the bluetooth log has different data output form the serial log?
Is any kind of password needed to use it?

J.L.

wow, you guys are really fast 
Thanks Burton for the Diagram and the reply .
I am sure the ignition is Ok because I have some of the same ZADI ignitions as spares that I use for the Oxygen Cargo e-scooter fleet that I work with, and ZADI is a local (Italian) manufacturer,  so I have tested the zero ignition on an Oxygen electric cargo scooter  and one of the brand new I have on the Zero and everything is OK. Also, Having the Ignition disconnected the problem is still present.
Plus there is the question that the main contactor is not affected by the problem so the bike is not able to run without the key, in the dispaly, only the backlight is still on . when you turn the key than the contactor acts and the bike works perfectly.
I will try to check directly the pins you suggested, I should say, however, that the 2014 wiring diagram differs a bit from what the 2013 was from your scheme, Burton, but I should be able to identify the right backwires where to put the tester on.
would like to know how to look at the .bin file by myself if it is possible.....
I will post that file, even with some pics.....
Thanks Again
J.L.